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Old 04-25-2012, 10:25 AM   #1945
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ooh, didn't realize the 16sw was a 6.5. That could work for me. And a pretty darn good price too.

I had the JL 10 in a ported box in the back of the hatch with a full interior. Even with the windows open there was too much sound pressure.

I bet you could even kick my butt so I installed it myself. I used to go to school in N Dartmouth, let me know.

The lunatic in me is curious to know if you know how much it weighs. Rofl, 7 lbs.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:50 AM   #1946
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Quote:
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I was going to suggest the sub I'm using as a temp solution, but you said less intensity...




^Yes there's a gap. The slope is at 24dB versus the sub's 36dB.








^And yet another gap. The tweeters are at a 6dB slope.



3.15 khz 1st order for tweeters seems crazily low.. there is also a good chance that you will burn them.. if you want to use the 6db slope my wild guess will be at least 6-6.5 khz (one octave higher)

why such a low (considering slope) crossover point in a 3 way system?
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:47 PM   #1947
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3.15 khz 1st order for tweeters seems crazily low.. there is also a good chance that you will burn them..
Sqcomp's tweeters have a Frequency Range = Fs (580 Hz) – 40,000 Hz, +/- 3 dB

they won't burn...


D.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:04 PM   #1948
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Quote:
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D,
Going back to your question, the mids are able to keep the center image BUT...given my location of the mids I like my higher freqs coming from speakers that are unblocked by legs. As we know, blocking the higher frequencies tends to take the sparkle and some detail out of the signal.
I had the impression from SB that as long as there is a clear path between your ears and the speakers should work fine.

I like the sparkles from the tweeters above 10kHz up in the a-pillars but I've seen many people go tweeter less. I did try once and it was pretty cool but even pushing the HL-70's I couldn't get them to play high enough.

D.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:12 PM   #1949
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Sqcomp's tweeters have a Frequency Range = Fs (580 Hz) – 40,000 Hz, +/- 3 dB

they won't burn...


D.
which means you should be crossing your tweeters at at least 1800 Hz @12db slope .. the producer recommends 1800 hz @4 order

I also just learned that HA has passive networks (which look pretty awesome) and it seems that they cross the tweeter at around 3500 hz 12 db (5.6 mF capacitor used paired with some inductance)

http://store.12velectronics.com/prod...Crossover.html

my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:42 PM   #1950
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my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?
I understand,

some one told me once...

"do what ever it takes so it sounds right"

and like I wrote once... everybody hears different.


My observation when I had my tweeters crossing low, is that it was harder to adjust center image due to reflexions from the windshield and matching with center image on Mids, going back to point source (with Mids) made my tuning easier, sqcomp knows what he is doing for sure and with a purpose. Some times I like the easy way.

But that's just me.

D.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:30 PM   #1951
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I have a question...with active filter...and 75W of output on the L1V2...do you need protection ?...75W seems a lot for those little tweeter :S
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:41 PM   #1952
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I have a question...with active filter...and 75W of output on the L1V2...do you need protection ?...75W seems a lot for those little tweeter :S
you will adjust the signal level at your amp (gain) and use the proper crossover point - this is enough to make sure it serves you long time
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #1953
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Tolmach I hope you're getting more info for that reply you just gave if not it was totally pointless. The guy can't just go and start cranking on dials and everything magically sound good. If I'm right he has 5V preouts we will need to see the input sensitivity on the amp he gets if it's 5V at the min position you have to be very careful with gain. We need a lot more info before we can give advice.

Packet please don't mess with any of your equipment until you fully understand how you are going to tune the amps and set you crossover points, eq's, we will get you a very detailed how to on setting your amp gain.

When that time comes we'll need detailed information on your equipment.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:10 PM   #1954
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Clarification would probably read like this:

Adjusting the gain structure at the source and at the amplifier to not give off a clipped signal from the signal chain as well as a responsible crossover point for the tweeter is the way to go.

Think about it this way, Scott Buwalda is using a JL HD750/1 for each L3SE. He's not blowing speakers. I'm working with 240 Watts (@ 12V) on my L4SEs. I'm doing just fine. Why? Refer to the clarified sentence.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:19 PM   #1955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derickveliz2 View Post
I had the impression from SB that as long as there is a clear path between your ears and the speakers should work fine.

I like the sparkles from the tweeters above 10kHz up in the a-pillars but I've seen many people go tweeter less. I did try once and it was pretty cool but even pushing the HL-70's I couldn't get them to play high enough.

D.
I hear that. I'm a freak when it comes to my upper midrange though. Still, you're on to something. In our instance we have the mids tucked in the kick area. That's to necessarily a clear path to the ears. This is why I'm playing around with location and aiming some more...and why you guys haven't seen me complete my front stage. Also recall how Scott's G35 had the L3SEs in the sail panels. THAT is a clear line to the ears.

I'm actually thinking about shimming my driver's side tweeter to aim to the left ear...just for $hits and giggles. I want to hear what happens with the center image. I've also set up some temporary baffles for the L4SEs just to play around with more aiming that way as well.

This is one heck of an experiment between Derick and myself. Between us both, we have some serious R&D time with the front stage acoustics in the Yaris sedan.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #1956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOLMACH View Post
which means you should be crossing your tweeters at at least 1800 Hz @12db slope .. the producer recommends 1800 hz @4 order

I also just learned that HA has passive networks (which look pretty awesome) and it seems that they cross the tweeter at around 3500 hz 12 db (5.6 mF capacitor used paired with some inductance)

http://store.12velectronics.com/prod...Crossover.html

my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?
I'm now at 3.15 kHz at a 6dB on the right and a 36dB on the left tweeter. I'm playing with response, soundstage, and phasing. I wish it was as simple as just slapping a prefabbed passive crossover on a set of speakers. It's just not. I'm a pillar man, always have been. I'm trying to get the stage width SERIOUSLY wide without sacrificing the center image. There is ALWAYS a give and take.

Before anyone trys to rake me over the coals, I had Scott Buwalda riding in the Yaris on Monday while on our way to dinner. I showed him the crossover points for all the speakers. He didn't have any issue with 3.15kHz at a 6. If the right kicks it, I'll let everyone know and get Scott to re-work the guts of the tweeter (since it is an L1Pro SE and not a mainline production R2 tweeter).
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:31 PM   #1957
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Oh! If I do change the pillar setup, I'll reuse these current pillars and do the entire pillar in ABS to reduce the stress points between the different substrate materials (plastic, fiberglass, filler, and MDF).
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:42 PM   #1958
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Just to add more to the equation, I'm playing the I6SW a (Pmax Rated Power Input of 120 watts) with 400 watts. But Yes... I'm very conservative on volume, distortion and abusing speakers!

I know many people over power, but it's like Sqcomp's sample of the BMW vrs Prius, remember that?

D.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:30 AM   #1959
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ooh, didn't realize the 16sw was a 6.5. That could work for me. And a pretty darn good price too.

I had the JL 10 in a ported box in the back of the hatch with a full interior. Even with the windows open there was too much sound pressure.

I bet you could even kick my butt so I installed it myself. I used to go to school in N Dartmouth, let me know.

The lunatic in me is curious to know if you know how much it weighs. Rofl, 7 lbs.
Now I now why, why? gets head-each right?

(Bohemian Rhapsody, Keane, queen, garbage, etc.)


That's ok, I'll show my car to why? on Friday, I hope he likes the little that can! (i6sw) and no I don't know how much it weights sorry? not much I guess?

I'll bring other 2 big brothers too (IDQ12 one of the best SQ subs I've seen it just doesn't fit where the i6sw does, and a Bazooka just to play around)






D.


.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:48 AM   #1960
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Even when I turned down the sub through the h/u, and the gain on the amp it still gave me a headache. So annoying.
Mmm, are you still driving without rear seats?

I'm sure that would give me a head-ache too!

I'm going to have to take you for a ride!



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Old 04-27-2012, 04:15 AM   #1961
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Completely re aimed my front stage. Changed the crossover points and slopes. Now to get the pillars and kicks redone before June.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:19 AM   #1962
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Completely re aimed my front stage. Changed the crossover points and slopes. Now to get the pillars and kicks redone before June.
Tweeters or Mids?

D.
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