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[Focus_Sh1ft]

Our ECMs must be different. If it was that simple we wouldn't be having this conversation :p

I've got it apart but the pins off the board are in the black plastic connector, making it impossible to see the other side of the board. It looks like the black plastic cover slides out but... It doesnt. lol

I'll throw some pictures up shortly to see if we're on the same page.

[yaris2010RS]

LOL, sorry i forgot a step/ exactly what you ment.

the top two connectors are soldered onto the chip do not remove the pins from the connector. from the picture, the only thing holding the chip in is the silicone holding the black plastic connectors onto the back case.

dont pry on the chip (i hope you already knew this but just incase), pry against the connectors and the casing.

also be careful how much you handle the physical chip itself

if you do find something on it dont spray WD40 on it, you would want to ensure to use a proper contact cleaner. and before putting it back together i would recommed putting di-electric grease all over the chip

[yaris2010RS]

How did the pins themselves look? i had some slight corrosion on a few

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So you're saying it's just the silicone holding that piece on then? Normally I'd just throw some force at it but for obvious reasons I'm avoiding that.

The pins themselves look fine. I don't expect to find water corrosion (I don't know how water got in yours - this thing was sealed tight!), but I definitely want a look at the caps in particular.

Also, just in case this winds up being the problem - did the dealer have to reprogram your new ecm? Obviously there will be a vin mismatch, but I wonder if it would still work (if there isn't an immobilizer on your car, of course).

[yaris2010RS]

my car does have the immobilizer. i took in all my keys so they could reprogram them all to the new ECM.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright, success. Or something. Going to continue this in my thread.

[yaris2010RS]

^so now that that little thread hijacking is done..... LOL JKSJKS

UPDATE Engine removal DIY: Still working on Engine removal DIY, Almost got the write up all done but im going to basically need to re-remove my engine to get some pics of certain things, especially the things i found difficult and time consuming. Trying to make this as easy as possible for others. Its about time i give back some useful information to the community!

UPDATE regarding broken engine...... I have no idea why exactly she failed. Valves looked great (will post pics) and pistons and walls looked absolutly perfect. no valve stems appeared to be bent. the only damage found was on the Valve guides. One guide was very brittle and actually broke when i was removing the valve stem seal, i do not believe it was completely broken before i got into the engine. The one next to it also appeared to have some cracking on it. but no pieces came off

the valve seat also looked great and looked to be sealing all the way around. (as per the marks all around the valve base and seat)

Currently trying to seperate engine (block from....well the bottom part.....cast oil pan i suppose?) but am stuck on the ghost bolt...... is there a bolt inside the oil filter area? i cannot seperate the block form cast oil pan..... i am able to seperate the rear side of the engine but it gets stuck around where the oil filter goes.....any help with this?

For all you with water pump issues...... inside my head i found trapped metal, it looks like cast scraps and if these get sucked into the water pump im sure could do some damage......

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yes there is a hidden bolt in the oil filter location. You need to remove the threaded portion the oil filter screws onto and there should be a bolt inside.

[yaris2010RS]

Thanks that what i thought.....Is the 12mm hex a reverse thread by any chance?

[Bluevitz-rs]

No it should just be a normal right hand thread. Otherwise installing a filter would want to loosen it.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Good, good.

I look forward to the engine porn.

[yaris2010RS]

DUDE THE ENGINE PORN IS NASTYYYY!!!! LOL, Still cant find any issues inside..... bottom end looks great too. will be removing pistons later this week and will update on rings but if the walls were fine i doubt ill see anything noticable with the rings. you never know.



Let me re-state my symptoms, Missfire code on cylinder 1, running like a bag, loss of power, huge blowby (to the point it looked like my car was over heating from smoke coming out of breather tube) at idle my PSI was at -15 vs the normal -21. also my load at idle was aprox 40% Calc Load. I had blue smoke comming out of exhaust getting worse and worse as the engine symptoms got worse and worse. especially on start up and WOT.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Dis you check to make sure the PCV ( positive crankcase ventilation) valve wasn't clogged. That would create a high pressure in the bottom end and push oil to places it shouldn't be.

[yaris2010RS]

Yep, check it, looked good and made the clunking when you shook it, Cleaned it just incase and it made the clunking slightly louder and before pulling the engine i swapped the PCV with the engine i was going to put in and i had the same pressure coming out of the blowby

[yaris2010RS]

Also for all those thinking of not putting an elbow inside the oil pan for the turbo oil return, i could see that causing some damage. I found a "definate discolourment" where the return line would have been shooting oil at

[yaris2010RS]

project going a different dirrection.... looking at a complete engine swap.....something big..... will post with updates

[Focus_Sh1ft]

[yaris2010RS]

SAD FACE...... was looking into a cheap 2zzge but engine condition was "Too Unknown"