DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yaris_That · 02-05-2011, 01:58 PM

As for the people who are having problems with the idle set screw, this is the hardest part of the TB swap in my opinion. Getting the screw to turn, Position the TB on a vise DON'T tighten the vise to much or you might crack the TB hosing. I chiseled away as much of the epoxy as I could using an assorted set of precision flat head mini screwdrivers and mini hammer. Try to get as deep as you can into the taper at the base of the screw, After that I covered the ends of the TB and sand blasted the idle screw area. Then I got a T10 torx bit and hammered it into the head of the screw until seated to the bottom of the head, making my own thread pattern that is a way tighter fit and less likely to strip when trying to remove with intended Allen key. I tried with Allen key and was starting to strip. Also the hammering action helps to free up the threads by cracking away any remaining epoxy stuck in the threads. I would NOT recommend this but I also applied a bit of heat to the screw using a small flame torch.
In the end I wanted to be as careful as possible not to damage the idle screw for I did not want to have to tap and die in a new idle screw and possibly cause an other problem.

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02-05-2011, 01:58 PM	#34
Yaris_That Drives: Blue Yaris RS Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Canada, Ottawa. Posts: 10	As for the people who are having problems with the idle set screw, this is the hardest part of the TB swap in my opinion. Getting the screw to turn, Position the TB on a vise DON'T tighten the vise to much or you might crack the TB hosing. I chiseled away as much of the epoxy as I could using an assorted set of precision flat head mini screwdrivers and mini hammer. Try to get as deep as you can into the taper at the base of the screw, After that I covered the ends of the TB and sand blasted the idle screw area. Then I got a T10 torx bit and hammered it into the head of the screw until seated to the bottom of the head, making my own thread pattern that is a way tighter fit and less likely to strip when trying to remove with intended Allen key. I tried with Allen key and was starting to strip. Also the hammering action helps to free up the threads by cracking away any remaining epoxy stuck in the threads. I would NOT recommend this but I also applied a bit of heat to the screw using a small flame torch. In the end I wanted to be as careful as possible not to damage the idle screw for I did not want to have to tap and die in a new idle screw and possibly cause an other problem.