DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap

[jkuchta]

Also...adjust the idle set screw and the problem will go away.

[fuji]

I would have to agree Peter, I have been running the throttle body with the chip swap with no issues yet. Never had a cel

[whooppee777]

i swapped the chips from the stock tb to a Tc tb. set a CEL the first day and had oscillating revs and high revs on cold engine starts. after 4 days cel went away and rev issues fixed itself. chip swap ftw

[mick.wheelz]

since OP is a douchbag and removed his shit, I will post my experience with this....

IMO, the 1ZZ TB upgrade is one of the best bang-for-buck mods that us yaris owners can do... What else can you pay $50 for performance wise and actually feel a difference?

Anyway, onwards with the DIY.

NOTES:

From my expirence you MUST do the chip swap... don't be a lazy fuck, just do it! If you dont, it will idle like a pig and oscillate.

Also, the idle screw NEEDS to be adjusted, but be careful, if you cock it up and strip your idle screw like i did, you will need to drill it out and tap in a new one. (You don't want to have to do this.)

Steps;

1. You need to remove your 1NZ TB, its held on by 6x 10mm nuts, and 1x 10mm bolt, you will also need to disconnect the cable that goes into the chip, as well as the coolant lines (be sure to clamp these if you don't want to lose coolant. also, now is a good time to do a coolant bypass.)

side note: for the coolant bypass, all you need to do is take one of the stock coolant lines, disconnect the other at the engine and connect the remaining one on, creating a loop.





2. Remove the stock TB, you will note it does not have a gasket. there is an o-ring in the plenum that it seals against.

3. Here are some comparison pictures of the 1ZZ and 1NZ TB's


1ZZ


1NZ


Side by Side

4. Take your stock TB and drill out the rivets, also do this with your 1ZZ TB.



5. Pull the 'chip' off the stock TB and attach it to the 1ZZ TB.




6. Get some small bolts to hold the new TB chip to the TB

7. Remove the glue from the idle screw and make sure you can adjust it before fitting it to the car.

8. Put the TB back in the same way it came out.

9. Reconnect all hoses and fittings. If you are still using the stock hose/airbox you can simply turn it around (be sure to use some grease to get it to fit on the new TB flange/airbox... you will also need a new PCV hose as the old one will now be too short.





10. If you have not done already, pull the negative off the battery and reset the ecu (just stand on the brake pedal for 30-60sec)

11. Wind the idle down a tad (wind the screw out) and try and start the car, it will fast idle quite high and settle down, ones it has, fiddle with the idle until its back to factory (or close)

12. You are done. The car may oscillate a tad at first and the idle might require re-adjustment, but after 100kms or so, it should be right.

Hopefully this helps :)

[tk-421]

Thanks for posting this info again.

What's the best way to replace a stripped idle screw? It was pretty worn when I bought the TB, and I ended up stripping it completely after a while. I don't think I can drill it (without hurting the TB) since it's pretty much level with the enclosure already.

I'm pretty much used to the high startup idle @ ~2.5K, but it goes down after 20 seconds or so. Not a huge deal, but I might fix it just to make it perfect.

As far as the bang-for-buck comment, I agree this mod is one of the best candidates out there for the Yaris.

[mick.wheelz]

Originally Posted by tk-421

Thanks for posting this info again.

What's the best way to replace a stripped idle screw? It was pretty worn when I bought the TB, and I ended up stripping it completely after a while. I don't think I can drill it (without hurting the TB) since it's pretty much level with the enclosure already.

I'm pretty much used to the high startup idle @ ~2.5K, but it goes down after 20 seconds or so. Not a huge deal, but I might fix it just to make it perfect.

As far as the bang-for-buck comment, I agree this mod is one of the best candidates out there for the Yaris.

All I did was get a big ass drill bit (~10mm) from memory, and drill the whole screw/etc out and tap a new thread.

edit: a pic



You can see the bolt used here. Once i got it right i putt a little glue down it to set it in place.

[tk-421]

Thanks!

I'll probably rethread the sucker once I get the TB spacer installed in the next week or so.

[marcus]

hmmmm...tb...part#

[Astroman]

If you can find a TB with #22030-0D030. I didn't have to do a darn thing.

[suckerface]

Originally Posted by Astroman

If you can find a TB with #22030-0D030. I didn't have to do a darn thing.

Do you happen to have the info of the car it came off of? (year, model, etc)

edit: nvm, found answer in other thread (05 corolla, right?)

[marcus]

can anyone confirm if this tb will work.. 1zz-fe part# 0d110

http://www.khengine.com/servlet/the-...Body-03/Detail

[Astroman]

Sorry that TB won't work for your Yaris, you need one thats DBW (05+).

Yup, mine is from a '05 Corolla.

[bobolinko]

My Motor is a 2ZR-FE

Is there anyone with knowledge about a TB Swap For My Motor ?
I'd be really interested to find any information to that end!

Thank you guys!

[kustom play]

so was the scion TC TB good as well?

Somebody has an extra one they can give me, dont want to waste the time doing it if it wont work

[weapon5]

sorry a bit confuse where is the chip?

[Yaris_That]

2006 Yaris Hb RS 4 door 5speed.
So I did the tb swap yesterday. What a difference it has made. I drove 200km last night with no noticeable problems, just when I shift the rpms hold for about a 1/2 second and on cold start engine will start at 3000rpm then 20sec later it goes to 2000rpm and once fully warmed up idles at 557rmp. NO check engine light. During installation battery negative side was disconnected. I did not do the chip swap yet, I did not do coolant bypass because here in Canada Ottawa it's cold. To be able to hook up coolant lines I had the lengthen ONE of the two coolant lines. The one that goes to the right side of engine. I did adjust the idle screw 1 1/2 counter clockwise and then an other 45 degrees counter clockwise. As for the TB I made my own gasket that is fitted around the ends of the TB I did keep the stock o-ring/seal in place. As for the chip swap I will wait a bit, don't really see a need to swap it yet. I do plan on installing an inline catch can with filter due to the increased air flow. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

[tk-421]

Nicely done! Extra points on the DIY gasket.
I'm thinking the chip swap is not necessary, although it may depend on the TB serial number... Still, I wouldn't touch it if there's no CEL

[Yaris_That]

Originally Posted by tk-421

Nicely done! Extra points on the DIY gasket.
I'm thinking the chip swap is not necessary, although it may depend on the TB serial number... Still, I wouldn't touch it if there's no CEL

Only thing I'm wondering is, will it solve that 1/2 second rmp hold when shifting. As for the 3000rpm at cold start doesn't bother me at all.