Installed the 1zz throttle body -

[m911gt]

Originally Posted by AlexNet0

awesome, now I'm not mad anymore, lol, I get so pissed whenever I try something and it doesnt work, makes me feel so incompetent when I know I'm fully capable, lol

oh i know what you mean, but it'll oscillate back and forth until it finds a happy medium

[AlexNet0]

i think i just got a bad 1zz tb, it still just oscillates wildly and doesnt settle at all, even fully warmed up, even with the 1nz chip swapped in. i just put the 1nz tb back on, maybe ill try to get ahold of another1zz tb

[thebarber]

i have an extra 1zz tb

[dallas]

First dibs, why did you buy two? are they different serial numbers ? What do you want for it, if it's o.k ? I'm in Canada like you, so shipping should be easy.

[jkuchta]

Make sure you use a god gasket maker (RTV silicone), and let it sit for 3-5 hours before starting the car.

If you don't let the silicone set up before starting the car, the engine vacuume will suck the stuff into the intake, and you'll get an ocillation and CEL!

[AlexNet0]

Exactly what I used, I let it set for over an hour, when I pulled it back off after getting the same bad result it was set pretty well. It barely responded to the throttle, meaning that I could not manually hold it in one spot, it would start to, then it just took over, maybe a bad spring in it or something, I dunno.

[jkuchta]

What codes are you getting...and have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

[tk-421]

I just finished my own TB swap install. I made the chip swap from the start, took the epoxy off the idle screw, and bypassed the TB coolant lines, just as other members have done.

I was unable to find a silicone coupler quickly enough, so I just used a dremel with a filing bit on the inside of the hose until it fit perfectly.

I just took it back from a test drive, and have a BIG smile on my face. No CELs, no weird idle fluctuations, nothing. The only small detail was that it idled at 3K for the first minute or so. After that it steadily went down until it got to 0.5 K.

So now I guess that I shouldn't even need to adjust the idle screw at all. I'll try it out for a couple of days. If nothing happens, I'll just seal the screw again and be done with it.

The difference can be felt right away. And not only did I not notice a power loss at lower revs, but actually a gain! The car pulls a lot better now, even from a complete stop. And the sound is amazing too.

Many thanks to Yaris T-Sport for his excellent idea to swap the chips, and jkuchta for his writeup!

Now on to the 4-2-1 header...

[kustom play]

where are you guys getting the connector for the coolant bypass?

[Saggio]

Originally Posted by tk-421

I just finished my own TB swap install. I made the chip swap from the start, took the epoxy off the idle screw, and bypassed the TB coolant lines, just as other members have done.

I was unable to find a silicone coupler quickly enough, so I just used a dremel with a filing bit on the inside of the hose until it fit perfectly.

I just took it back from a test drive, and have a BIG smile on my face. No CELs, no weird idle fluctuations, nothing. The only small detail was that it idled at 3K for the first minute or so. After that it steadily went down until it got to 0.5 K.

So now I guess that I shouldn't even need to adjust the idle screw at all. I'll try it out for a couple of days. If nothing happens, I'll just seal the screw again and be done with it.

The difference can be felt right away. And not only did I not notice a power loss at lower revs, but actually a gain! The car pulls a lot better now, even from a complete stop. And the sound is amazing too.

Many thanks to Yaris T-Sport for his excellent idea to swap the chips, and jkuchta for his writeup!

Now on to the 4-2-1 header...

Hmm now I wanna do this again

[mikenacarato]

Originally Posted by kustom play

where are you guys getting the connector for the coolant bypass?

i used a Volvo VED12 Semi-truck engine piston squirter nozzle to make my bypass.

[jkuchta]

I used a 3/4 " brass double barb union from the plumbing section of Home Depot....I think I paid $5 for it.

[kustom play]

nice mike,

i'll tell them i need a 3/4 " brass double barb union, i think that would be my best bet

[tk-421]

Originally Posted by jkuchta

I used a 3/4 " brass double barb union from the plumbing section of Home Depot....I think I paid $5 for it.

I tried a 3/4" but it was way too big. I went for a 1/4" instead and it worked great. Weird, I know.

[jkuchta]

I also tried a quarter inch fitting, but there was no resistance on the barb, so I went 3/4.

[kustom play]

just did the swap, same as TK

did the coolant bypass and the chip swap

took me a little over 2 hours to complete the whole thing, due the the fact that i forgot to charge the drill and i ran out to lowes to get the brass union for the bypass

everything is running smooth, no CEL yet, car idled high for about 5 mins then returned to near stock idle, (i would assume, i dont have a tach to really check for sure)

but big thing is no check engine light, seems to be a lot more peppy though!

cant beat this mod for the price, im going to run and do a few things around town so i hope it doesnt throw a CEL

i'll post back up with the results

[tk-421]

Looks like I will need to adjust the idle screw after all... Every time I cold start, it goes up to 3K and gradually goes down until the engine temp light turns off. No CELs as of yet, and I've been driving it pretty hard.

[kustom play]

my CEL just came on after about 15 miles

i'll have to wait and see what happens