TANABE DF210 Spring Install [pics] - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

hystria · 12-04-2006, 07:05 PM

however the normal 17 box wrench doesn't fit down to the nut, as the nut sits deep down in the black metal part around it... dit you used a deep offset box wrench

*Chris07LB* · 12-04-2006, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hystria

however the normal 17 box wrench doesn't fit down to the nut, as the nut sits deep down in the black metal part around it... dit you used a deep offset box wrench

Make sure you have your jack under the side you are working on, with some pressure on it. This will compress the spring/strut, and make removing the nut a lot easier.

Look at my pictures, its a regular box wrench. Maybe take a trip to the store, and look for something thats better/deeper then what you're using.

hystria · 12-04-2006, 09:00 PM

thanks, indeed that whas too deep, dont know why but it was... even with the side completely jacked. finally I put a normal socket and grip it veeery solid with the wisegrip then turn it - that worked

just to help a bit, when removing the whipper arms, a nice idea is to tap on the bolt that retains the arm while pulling with the other hand on the arm - this should make it easy

Kaotic Lazagna · 12-13-2006, 11:13 PM

planning on getting DF's for my S. i mainly use my car for transportation (freeway most of the time), so DF's would be a good choice, right? keep in mind, i do have 3 passengers with me at times with some luggage in the trunk.

vodkalush · 12-14-2006, 11:43 AM

ummm, after the springs got "warn-in" I seem to get some rubbing at times with a full trunk, crap in the back and front seat passanger.... but as long as I go over bumps slowly (say in and out of some parking lots, missing pot holes) everything seems fine for the most part.

07typeS · 01-26-2007, 07:28 PM

Hey guys I just recently installed the nf's and they turned out great, handling is improved ride is just a tad stiffer than stock, and it looks 10 times better, and even better once i get some 17's on it. I had some things to add to the How to as well.......

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually
2. Before undoing the shock bolts there is what looks to be a vacuum line bolted to the arm.....If you look at picture 7 you will see a black threaded stud next to aluminum looking clip, unbolt the vacuum line from the arm because the line will get real tight when you undo both shock bolts...

Front
1. Yes you can reach the top bolt with just undoing the trim and wiper blades.......but i undid that plus the motor and metal bracket that goes across the back side of the engine bay...free'd up a lot of room and made it very easy....

the back took 45 minutes which included opening up the springs and grabbing all the tools i needed, very simple.....

the front took a bit longer, always with a strut mounted spring. Once you get that first one done you know exactly what to do on the second one......

Chris07lb, if you want to add any of this to your tutorial by all means, and hope its ok i referenced to one of your pictures........the write up was great and helped me out.......

anyone in socal need any help whether its verbal or literally a hand, let me know.......

I will work for beer lol....

Nimble · 01-27-2007, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07typeS

Hey guys I just recently installed the nf's and they turned out great, handling is improved ride is just a tad stiffer than stock, and it looks 10 times better, and even better once i get some 17's on it. I had some things to add to the How to as well.......

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually
2. Before undoing the shock bolts there is what looks to be a vacuum line bolted to the arm.....If you look at picture 7 you will see a black threaded stud next to aluminum looking clip, unbolt the vacuum line from the arm because the line will get real tight when you undo both shock bolts...

Front
1. Yes you can reach the top bolt with just undoing the trim and wiper blades.......but i undid that plus the motor and metal bracket that goes across the back side of the engine bay...free'd up a lot of room and made it very easy....

the back took 45 minutes which included opening up the springs and grabbing all the tools i needed, very simple.....

the front took a bit longer, always with a strut mounted spring. Once you get that first one done you know exactly what to do on the second one......

Chris07lb, if you want to add any of this to your tutorial by all means, and hope its ok i referenced to one of your pictures........the write up was great and helped me out.......

anyone in socal need any help whether its verbal or literally a hand, let me know.......

I will work for beer lol....

I think that "line" is your ABS, and most of us do not have that, but good point either way.

*Chris07LB* · 01-27-2007, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07typeS

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually

Read your owners manual.. its is said to NEVER jack up the rear of the car, by the center of the beam, connecting both rear wheels.

07typeS · 01-27-2007, 07:52 PM

lol dude i put a block of wood across the whole arm, forgot to mention that.......that simulates what the car is doing on the ground so its no big deal........i can agree not to have all that stress on the center but i had it spread evenly.......

and thanks for the info nimble, yea i didnt remember seeing that step in the how to so i looked and saw that he didnt have the line but had the stud for it......

OgDogg · 01-28-2007, 03:41 PM

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

*Chris07LB* · 01-28-2007, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OgDogg

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

No. You have to use it to at least remove the old springs from the struts... not needed so much to re-install the shorter Tanabe springs.

You can rent one from your local parts store for 10 bucks. Do it the SAFE way, get a spring compressor.

largeorangefont · 01-28-2007, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

No. You have to use it to at least remove the old springs from the struts... not needed so much to re-install the shorter Tanabe springs.

You can rent one from your local parts store for 10 bucks. Do it the SAFE way, get a spring compressor.

If you have air tools you can get the stock front springs off without a spring compressor. Have a friend secure the strut on the ground with his foot. Give yourself about 15-20 feet in case anything goes flying, and make sure no one is standing in front of the strut. Use an impact gun to remove the strut nut. The spring will pop off about a foot, and some of the little parts may scatter, just keep an eye on everything. I did mine this way and the nut rolled away. everything else was right there.

Use common sence and safety and you will be fine without a spring compressor. If you are stupid, using hand tools, or don't have the proper room to do this, get a spring compressor.

Ashley

*Chris07LB* · 01-28-2007, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OgDogg

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

$10 .vs. risking getting hurt. Your choice.

07typeS · 01-28-2007, 05:53 PM

yea chris07lb is right........i think i bought my spring compressors for like 20 bucks at harbor freight and have paid for themselves no doubt......

that whole holding onto the top of the spring works but you better hope you trust the guy holding it, make sure the spring is going to slip, lots of things to worry about.........

but you definately dont need it putting the spring back together, theres almost no compression, theres a little.....but hardly any....

FoEKuZ · 01-29-2007, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

$10 .vs. risking getting hurt. Your choice.

paid $40.00 at auto zone for the spring compressor...when i took it back, they refunded my money...

07typeS · 01-29-2007, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoEKuZ

paid $40.00 at auto zone for the spring compressor...when i took it back, they refunded my money...

lol stickin it to the man baby..........too funny.......its actually a good tool to have, especally if you got a lot of friends that are into cars.....

"G" · 02-15-2007, 08:59 PM

Nice write up, 2 things real quick. That's the incorrect way to measure ride height. Also are you sure that is a 9/16" & not metric ? Or you just not have the correct metric size ?

*Chris07LB* · 02-16-2007, 05:58 AM

Measurement was a guide to show a before and after.

And if you search around, thats how its done all over the place..

Bottom of center of fender, to the center of wheel.

YES, if will vary from Yaris that come with 16's or guys running aftermarket larger wheel setups, but like mentioned, it was to gauge the drop on your car, during your install.

12-04-2006, 09:00 PM	#93
hystria Drives: 2007 Orange Yaris Hb 3Drs Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal-Canada Posts: 262	thanks, indeed that whas too deep, dont know why but it was... even with the side completely jacked. finally I put a normal socket and grip it veeery solid with the wisegrip then turn it - that worked just to help a bit, when removing the whipper arms, a nice idea is to tap on the bolt that retains the arm while pulling with the other hand on the arm - this should make it easy Last edited by hystria; 12-08-2006 at 02:39 PM.

12-14-2006, 11:43 AM	#95
vodkalush I drive a yarrrris View User's Garage Drives: 07 Sedan Polar White Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 1,009	ummm, after the springs got "warn-in" I seem to get some rubbing at times with a full trunk, crap in the back and front seat passanger.... but as long as I go over bumps slowly (say in and out of some parking lots, missing pot holes) everything seems fine for the most part. __________________ Docotrs say all the drikning has mesesd up my seplilng and radieng Get your YarisWorld.com stickers here!!! The Official Toyota Thailand Accessories Order Thread will work for parts

01-28-2007, 05:53 PM	#104
07typeS View User's Garage Drives: 2007 White Toyota Yaris Type S Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 439	yea chris07lb is right........i think i bought my spring compressors for like 20 bucks at harbor freight and have paid for themselves no doubt...... that whole holding onto the top of the spring works but you better hope you trust the guy holding it, make sure the spring is going to slip, lots of things to worry about......... but you definately dont need it putting the spring back together, theres almost no compression, theres a little.....but hardly any.... __________________ TRD Springs w/ KYB Struts and Shocks, Custom CAI w/ K&N filter and pre filter wrap, Weapon R Header, Stock 15 inch alloys, Dezod Performance pads, Tanabe Front Strut Bar, 35% front door Tint and 20% Rear doors back Tint, De-Badged Ass, Custom painted flat black interior, Pioneer deh-p6700bt w/ IPOD hookup, Infinity components up front with custom mounted tweeter, Inifinity 6x9's out back, 1 12" kicker comp cvr........

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12-04-2006, 07:05 PM	#91
hystria Drives: 2007 Orange Yaris Hb 3Drs Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal-Canada Posts: 262	however the normal 17 box wrench doesn't fit down to the nut, as the nut sits deep down in the black metal part around it... dit you used a deep offset box wrench

12-13-2006, 11:13 PM	#94
Kaotic Lazagna View User's Garage Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Central Valley, CA Posts: 9,873	planning on getting DF's for my S. i mainly use my car for transportation (freeway most of the time), so DF's would be a good choice, right? keep in mind, i do have 3 passengers with me at times with some luggage in the trunk.

01-26-2007, 07:28 PM	#96
07typeS View User's Garage Drives: 2007 White Toyota Yaris Type S Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 439	Hey guys I just recently installed the nf's and they turned out great, handling is improved ride is just a tad stiffer than stock, and it looks 10 times better, and even better once i get some 17's on it. I had some things to add to the How to as well....... Rear springs 1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually 2. Before undoing the shock bolts there is what looks to be a vacuum line bolted to the arm.....If you look at picture 7 you will see a black threaded stud next to aluminum looking clip, unbolt the vacuum line from the arm because the line will get real tight when you undo both shock bolts... Front 1. Yes you can reach the top bolt with just undoing the trim and wiper blades.......but i undid that plus the motor and metal bracket that goes across the back side of the engine bay...free'd up a lot of room and made it very easy.... the back took 45 minutes which included opening up the springs and grabbing all the tools i needed, very simple..... the front took a bit longer, always with a strut mounted spring. Once you get that first one done you know exactly what to do on the second one...... Chris07lb, if you want to add any of this to your tutorial by all means, and hope its ok i referenced to one of your pictures........the write up was great and helped me out....... anyone in socal need any help whether its verbal or literally a hand, let me know....... I will work for beer lol....

01-27-2007, 07:52 PM	#99
07typeS View User's Garage Drives: 2007 White Toyota Yaris Type S Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 439	lol dude i put a block of wood across the whole arm, forgot to mention that.......that simulates what the car is doing on the ground so its no big deal........i can agree not to have all that stress on the center but i had it spread evenly....... and thanks for the info nimble, yea i didnt remember seeing that step in the how to so i looked and saw that he didnt have the line but had the stud for it......

01-28-2007, 03:41 PM	#100
OgDogg Gas Guzzler View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 81	Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

02-15-2007, 08:59 PM	#107
"G" Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 346	Nice write up, 2 things real quick. That's the incorrect way to measure ride height. Also are you sure that is a 9/16" & not metric ? Or you just not have the correct metric size ?

02-16-2007, 05:58 AM	#108
Chris07LB Super Moderator View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Liftback Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 3,174	Measurement was a guide to show a before and after. And if you search around, thats how its done all over the place.. Bottom of center of fender, to the center of wheel. YES, if will vary from Yaris that come with 16's or guys running aftermarket larger wheel setups, but like mentioned, it was to gauge the drop on your car, during your install.