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Old 03-21-2009, 01:55 AM   #1
LtNoogie
 
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DIY Oil Pressure Gauge Install

This DIY is to show how I installed an Autometer C2 Oil Pressure Gauge. I did not take pictures along the way because the install took several weeks. I have gather a bunch of post-installation pictures and diagrams that should lead you towards your own installation.

A typical electric oil pressure gauge system is quite simple. It consists of a sensor, a cable, and the gauge itself.



The sender unit can be installed two ways. You can remove the factory oil pressure sensor and screw the new sensor into the factory tap. Doing so means that your OIL idiot light will no long work. Also, from the name of the device, the factory oil pressure switch seems to have only two settings...OFF or ON.



My supercharger intake manifold blocks my access to the factory oil pressure switch, so I decided to use a sandwich plate between the engine block and the oil filter. I got mine from Glowshift (thanks to Camelll for showing me this particular one).



In order to install the sandwich plate, the oil filter has to come off. Since my car is lowered, I stole someone's idea on this forum and built a homemade ramp to give me some room to work. It actually raised the car enough for me to get my body underneath the car if I wanted to. Who ever posted this idea, kudos to you!

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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:56 AM   #2
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Next comes the removal of the oil filter. There are several threads on what it takes to remove the oil filter so I won't go into it here. I just wanted to say I had to buy one of those endcap filter wrenches that you can put a 3/8 ratchet head into. Be sure to have a quart of fresh oil on hand because about a half quart of oil spills out when you remove the filter. I left what oil was in the filter and did not dump it out since I just got my oil changed 200 miles ago.

Things are tight down there so the new sensor needs to be screwed onto the sandwich plate before you attach the sandwich plate to the engine block.



The plate is screwed into the engine block and the filter is screwed into the sandwich plate. This picture is looking up at the filter and sender unit from the ground level. The sandwich plate is not visible when the filter is in place.



Here's a top view from the engine compartment.

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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 02:48 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:56 AM   #3
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The hardest part for me was bringing the wiring into the cabin of the car. I finally went to the local auto stereo shop and had an intaller drill a hole through the firewall and run the oil pressure wires and the vacuum/boost wires through the grommet. He also ran two 4 gauge wires for my future amp and subwoofer.



A gauge like this typically requires ignition switched +12VDC, dash lighting switched +12VDC, and ground.



I found the easiest way to tap into the +12VDC circuits was to use add-a-fuse circuits directly to the fusebox underneath the dash near the lever that opens the hood. You can get the add-a-fuse circuits at the auto parts store.



I tapped into the PANEL 1 circuit and the MET circuit. I don't remember which one went to which gauge wire. I'll have to check tomorrow. The smallest fuse I could find was a 3A fuse to use in the add-a-fuse circuit.



This view is looking directly up from the floormat.

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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 02:51 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:56 AM   #4
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Chassis ground can be found behind the kickplate near the driver's left foot for LHD vehicles. The plastic kick panel pops off easily. You will have to remove the doorsill plastic panel before removing the kick panel.



With power and ground connected, I connected the wire harness to the gauge to see if it powered up and lit up when I turned on the ignition and the headlights. The wire harness had not been connected to the oil pressure sender so the needle did not fluctuate. The wire harness was then wrapped in plastic slit tubing to protect it.

The little storage compartment near the driver's knee was removed to see if there was a way up to the dash. When the A-pillar cover was popped off, it reveal a path from the fusebox to the top of the dash.





This view is looking down through where the A-pillar was.



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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 03:08 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:57 AM   #5
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I'm currently using this Glowshift triple swivel gauge pod until I finish working on my A-pillar gauge pod. I should be finished with that task in 6 months at the pace I work.



I had to Dremel some holes in the back of the gauge pods because the pre-made holes were too small and were in an awkward position. The connectors were fed through the back of the gauge pod and pushed into the back of the gauges. The gauges were then pressed into the gauge pods.

I also ran my ScanGauge cable up the same path.

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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:57 AM   #6
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Vacuum/Boost is on the left. Wideband AFR is in the middle, Oil Pressure is on the right. In the video you see a black foam sheet on top of the gauges to block their reflection off the windshield. I need to make a little shroud over the gauge pods. At night the blue illumination also reflects off the windshield and is really annoying.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XsfSoKuDxU
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Last edited by LtNoogie; 03-21-2009 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 03:01 AM   #7
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you are right with the factory Oil Pressure sensor it is pure on/off
for the warnning light on the dash , that's why the scangauge can't read it . just a bit of useless info for everyone.
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtNoogie View Post
My supercharger intake manifold blocks my access to the factory oil pressure switch, so I decided to use a sandwich plate between the engine block and the oil filter. I got mine from Glowshift (thanks to Camelll for showing me this particular one).


hey awesome DIY, can you tell me what exact oil filter sandwich adapter you used? there are many different thread sizes to choose from, im not sure what ours is. i have my glowshift guages installed, now im just trying to set-up the oil pressure signal etc. thanks
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:49 AM   #9
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This is the one that Camelll and I used. Good luck with your install.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oilfi...-34unf-16.aspx
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:20 AM   #10
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Has anyone done this with aftermarket synthetic filters? Mine concaves down and I had to buy a new adapter, but still when the car starts, oil drips out of the filter-sandwich adapter. . .so I disregarded this mod. I'd love to do it one day, but I'd have to pick up an OEM toyota filter again. . .Anyone else experienced problems with this sensor gauge mod?
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Old 04-03-2009, 12:49 PM   #11
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Nice DIY, Long. Thanks!

Mike... what's "pipe dope"?
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drifto View Post
hey awesome DIY, can you tell me what exact oil filter sandwich adapter you used? there are many different thread sizes to choose from, im not sure what ours is. i have my glowshift guages installed, now im just trying to set-up the oil pressure signal etc. thanks
wich one spesificaly did you buy??

i whent to the shift glow page but they have many diferent size of adapter, what size does it fit the yaris??

thanks
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:21 PM   #13
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never mind i got it
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:13 PM   #14
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Thanks men that adapter work perfect, just my oil pressure on with the adapter work great

thanks again
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