Silicon found in oil commented by BlackLabs?

[N9QGS]

I just did my 2nd oil analysis at 95K and got the results they commended everything looked great, though they noted that Silicon was the only unusual findings, and they said due to that being the only indicator that it was probably something harmless, like the recent use of silicone sealer or spray lubricant. Which I have not used any, and they commented if I had not used any to check my air filter or something downstream for any cracks.

Has anyone has any comments on what I should be looking for? the only thing I ever did that fell during this period of oil, was I cleaned out the air filter box but I recall no use of anything that would contain silicone. Im not sure how a crack in something would bring silicone in, so maybe someone can help me with any preventive steps to monitor...

Thanks, Ron

[N9QGS]

By the way the measurement on Black Labs was 27 , normal is 21, and was at 14 at my 45K review.

[R2D2]

Can you post the whole report? I'd love to take a look at it for you.

Silicon is how "dirt" shows up on an analysis report and can be an indication of an intake or other leak allowing dirt ingestion into the engine. I'll need to see the other numbers though. I'll help if I can.

[N9QGS]

see if you can get it this way.. http://public.me.com/n9qgs

[R2D2]

That is a nice looking oil analysis for the miles of use, which should be a walk in the park for Mobil 1. Silicon does look high, but I would sincerely doubt it is from dirt ingestion as your metals appear to be very low. Usually increased iron, chromium, and nickel makes me suspect intake leak. Your metals appear very low for the mileage.

This looks more like silicon leaching from gasket or sealer material-this happens with new engines and engines that have had gaskets or seals and such replaced. Have you had any repairs or work/mods on the engine done since the 45k sample?

If not I wonder about the possibility of dirt ingress other than the intake...I'd check the plumbing around the pcv valve or other means of dirt entry into the crankcase-cracked or loose hoses, grommets etc.

I believe the bearings in these engines are composed of aluminum, silicon and tin- but your aluminum and tin seem very normal for this engine from what I've seen (and the universal averages for that matter).

If nothing turns up I'd run another interval and sample again to recheck.

R2

[N9QGS]

No the only maintenance I had done on the vehicle between that time was I cleaned out the air filter case really well, I may have used a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to get in creases, but I let it dry before reinstalling clean filter, this occurred during the oil that was analyzed, I also changed spark plugs about 15 to 20K ago. nothing with seals , coolant flush and (using the engine drain neck and also the coolant drain, and refilled that was done at time of Plugs too. I checked the air filter case and its sealed nicely. I probably overdue my oil changes and Im glad to see low engine wear, but this number or comment from them especially when I did nothing with any gaskets made me a little concern, "since" this is all related with the air intake, I may change the air filter, before the next oil change, and then test the next batch of oil, which would be 10,000 mile after this report, and see if we are still reading high. If its still high is there some simple test to do, Im no mechanic but I do my own plugs, oil changes fluid flushes. Is there simple things to try to pin point this problem, or if this something you can take to a typical mechanic and say "I have hi Silicon, can you find any problems?" and they can honestly diagnose and test for this condition...

Oh and you were talking about PVC... I read that should be changed like very 30K???? I never changed mine, I thought it was a $10 part and a 5 minute job, but Toyota told me its $78 part? Would this be a part you would consider a routine maintenance item and I should replace, especially if it could be a culprit?

Ron

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by N9QGS

No the only maintenance I had done on the vehicle between that time was I cleaned out the air filter case really well, I may have used a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to get in creases, but I let it dry before reinstalling clean filter, this occurred during the oil that was analyzed, I also changed spark plugs about 15 to 20K ago. nothing with seals , coolant flush and (using the engine drain neck and also the coolant drain, and refilled that was done at time of Plugs too. I checked the air filter case and its sealed nicely. I probably overdue my oil changes and Im glad to see low engine wear, but this number or comment from them especially when I did nothing with any gaskets made me a little concern, "since" this is all related with the air intake, I may change the air filter, before the next oil change, and then test the next batch of oil, which would be 10,000 mile after this report, and see if we are still reading high. If its still high is there some simple test to do, Im no mechanic but I do my own plugs, oil changes fluid flushes. Is there simple things to try to pin point this problem, or if this something you can take to a typical mechanic and say "I have hi Silicon, can you find any problems?" and they can honestly diagnose and test for this condition...

Oh and you were talking about PVC... I read that should be changed like very 30K???? I never changed mine, I thought it was a $10 part and a 5 minute job, but Toyota told me its $78 part? Would this be a part you would consider a routine maintenance item and I should replace, especially if it could be a culprit?

Ron

Ron, I bought a new Toyota PCV valve from a dealership for $10, and it took me just 3 minutes to install at 63,000 miles. All you need is a screwdriver, and a wrench. Don't let the stealerships screw you. Also, at 63,000 miles the old PCV was nearly mint new looking, and it had no debris, nor anything that would clog it or prevent it from doing it's job, so 30,000 miles is way too early to change out.

[R2D2]

I agree with SilverGlow-the Pcv valve should only be 10-15 dollars. I usually change them out every 75-90k but I don't recall it being mentioned in the maintenance guide. If your at 90k I'd change it. I'd also look for an obvious leak source.

If you don't find any loose connections or degraded components in your pcv or air filter system I would just change the filter and pcv valve and resample after another full run.

If the next set of numbers look this great I honestly wouldn't worry about just the elevated silicon when there is no increased wear. The folks at Blackstone are great, but I wouldn't panic just yet. If the numbers on my Yaris eventually look this good I'll be a very happy guy!

[Tamago]

did i miss what kind of oil the OP is using?

[R2D2]

Tamago,

IIRC he is using Mobil 1 5W-30.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Tamago,

IIRC he is using Mobil 1 5W-30.

ahh... the overhyped Mobil1!

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Tamago

ahh... the overhyped Mobil1!

lol!!!,

Not my personal fave either, but it sure is working here! If it ain't broke, right? Maybe they've changed something-best I've seen in sometime.

R2

[N9QGS]

This Thursday I will investigate the PCV valve cost again with another dealership, and I was planning to do the air filter change I will also recheck for anything that may show cracks, I will do the PCV valve also, I will be doing another oil change in the next 2 weeks before I head on a 1500 mile trip to Florida. I will then get this sample redone at about 105,000. Yes Ive been using Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic since 36K every 5K, and before then was using Pennzoil conv. up until 36K at 5K intervals. I know there are people that have a problem with Mobil One, but I think it boils down to personal experience, I use it cause its name brand, and it ha had very good reviews. It has gone up in price on me. And many will say I should be able to go more than 5K on a change with this, I also drive most highway (still on original brake pads), Ive often thought I should just use conventional and change it ever 4K and would come out much cheaper, but im happy with how everything is coming out and I personally dont mind investing what I am investing in my car, I know people that have 200K on their toyota I would like to see if I can do that. why? I travel 120 miles a day, I want this car to last me well beyond when it will be paid off (was a 3 year loan) it will be paid off in a 3 to 4 months, I would like to enjoy no car payments for a few additional years, this will allow me to save money to pay cash for my next Yaris or Toyota, let me just say of all 11 cars I have owned new, I never got to 100K without some unexpected repair of $200-$1000, and I have equally treated my cars just as well. I just was looking around the toyota lot the other day they have a tacoma with 313,000 miles on it for sale. the crazy thing every car I know that has HIGH mileage that is a toyota is a manual transmission, so this is why I have been draining and retopping the trans fluid every once in a while, cause I found that odd, and hope I can prevent any auto problems. that may be toyota weak spot, not sure. Ron

[R2D2]

Ron,

The Mobil 1 is serving you well-I don't think you could ask for more!

Post your next report and we'll have a look.

Take care,

R2

[N9QGS]

I picked up and replaced my PCV valve and new air filter, I spoke with the service consultant and he said based on me having 100,000 miles on my car its very normal to have an occasional spike in Silicon due to silcon being used on the oil pump from the factory and as a pump wears pieces of this will be found in the oil especially he said on a break new engine or one that has miles on it you will see normal spikes. He told me to keep up what I am doing (synthetic oil) and I should be fine.

[N9QGS]

Oh I did have one question, when I replaced the PVC, I thought I noted that the PCV was not screwed tight against the block, that there was like 2 threads visible , and looking at the old one I sorta see something that confirms this so I only tightened the new one to about 2 threads visible, am I doing this correct? I also used a little anti seize also.

[R2D2]

Ron,

I would just tighten it enough that it won't loosen during operation, which shouldn't require much torque.

I wouldn't worry much about the number of threads showing as long as it's tight enough to seal well and won't loosen up-but be carefull not to over do it!

R2

[N9QGS]

Thanks R2,

Next weekend, I will be at my 5K change interval, and will probably change the oil on the 4th of July, I will then work for 4 days which is 400 miles highway and then I driving to DisneyWorld and back, I should break the 100,000 mark just before or during the drive to. So this next oil that I am gonna have analyzed will have less cold engine starts then normal, I look forward to see with the new air Filter and PCV valve, what we turn up for analyze and also I will monitor my fuel economy during the trip to see if anything has changed. I should be able to get this next batch of oil analyzed by August 15th, cause with the Florida trip and work I should go through 5K in 5 weeks about.

Ron