Using rod based unlocks?

[MJZ]

Ok, so I have been talking back and forth with installers, found one that seemed to be the best blend of the best deal and the best reviews. Talked (in text/pm/email form because I like to have things in writing) that the car was fully manual and that the locks were cable driven.

I get a text today with a photo stating that he is having a hard time installing the actuators because of the cable locks. He's using rod based actuators.

Has anyone done this and *NOT* had major issues?

A bit concerned.

[MJZ]

I'll have photos of how it was connected after I get the car back (It's getting tint as well so...) Shop told me they connected the rod directly to the locking switch itself... smh
And they don't have the parts to do the Hatch pop, so I bought the relay and actuator for the hatch and went and purchased the $13 dollar "Rod to Cable" adapters and I'll be "redoing" the door locks once they come in. Looking at the placement of the actuator, I might have issues getting the door panels back on... I think that's where the foam is located on the panel itself.

[MJZ]

The installer changed up the mounting a bit, where it's connected to bothers me, but I will be changing in once I get the rod to cable adapters in. I'll give him this, it's ingenious, but I fear it will break in time.

Drivers side set up (I put the zip tie in there, because the rod was bouncing and I didn't want it to come out of the guide that was made so it would attach to the lock


Passengers side set up (not sure why it's a different actuator, it's a central locking alarm, this side it seems they "figured out" a better way to mount it)


Close up of the connection method

[CTScott]

If it locks and unlocks OK that way (and will work with the door card back on), I would stick with the rods. The cable adapters are kind of hokey in their own right.

[MJZ]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If it locks and unlocks OK that way (and will work with the door card back on), I would stick with the rods. The cable adapters are kind of hokey in their own right.

I'll see what I can do. At any rate I have the parts ordered for the Rod to Cable connection of it boils down to that. The passengers side doesn't bounce around like the driver side does, might have to look into making some sort of retainer so that the rod stays within it's desired path.

[CTScott]

I've done two power lock installs and I swear if I ever do one again I will just track down a set of the OEM lock actuators. Same for power window conversions - the OEM hardware is just so much better than the aftermarket stuff.

[MJZ]

I'm thinking about getting some metal tubing and pressing it into the hole he made so that the force isn't being exerted directly on the plastic. That and getting a metal guide so that rod stops bouncing around. The passengers side seems fine, the drivers side, eh. I *STILL* have not attempted to refit the panels, so I might have to move things around anyway. I'll know more this weekend if it doesn't bloody rain.

[jcboy]

if nothing else you may want to shorten the rod just enough to attach to a stripped part of the cable insulation.

this is what i had in mind, though the stripped section need not be as long.

[MJZ]

I have those same adapters, what I don't have is clamps to connect the rod to the cable. I'm sure it's not a hard part to find, I just don't have them. The locks work as is, so I'm going to try to do as little modification as possible, just strengthen the connection point. If it fails at some point in the future I can look at redoing it. I was also thinking about getting shorter cables and connecting them together at the rod adapter, they are basically bike cables and you can get those in a large number of lengths. Just turning out to be more work than necessary. I'm going to be doing work on the car this weekend, if the panels go back without any issues, then I'll leave it as is, if I have to start moving stuff around... then I'll most likely be forced to rework the connection.