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Old 08-23-2007, 01:04 PM   #1
redyaris
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DIY: Intake Installation

Hello all. Redyaris here serving the Yarisworld community yet again with an (easy) DIY! I have the word easy in parentheses because depending on your mechanical skills this could be easy or a bit difficult for some.

Tools needed: metric or SAE wrench set, hex key set, utility knife, phillips and flathead screwdrivers, time and patience!

Time Allowance: Took me 2 hours from start to finish. (Those more mechanically inclined probably will take an hour).

Many here have either already installed an intake system or are planning to in the future. I purchased a Weapon R Dragon Intake system from the fine vendor wesellcarparts.com available on Yarisworld. What a deal ($109 shipped!). As you know, im cheap. This is a basic intake system that delivers on what it promises from a reliable manufacturer with a lot of experience in developing intake systems.

This DIY is for the newbies or anyone who has never attempted to do this.

A modified or aftermarket intake has many advantages over the OEM airbox: among these are increased airflow to the engine boosting horsepower (a wee tiny bit), cooler engine running temperature (some here have reported a 10 degree drop), and a more agressive engine sound from underhood!!!!

NOTE: You may choose to do the steps in an order different than I did. Don't bitch me out if you didn't do yours like mine.

NOTE: Your results may be different than mine were. I am not responsible for your installation.

NOTE: If you receive a check engine light after installation (CEL) you did something wrong. DO NOT continue to run your engine if you receive this warning!!!!

Part 1: Deconstruction of OEM Airbox

1. Disconnect your negative battery cable as a precaution and to reset the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

2. Undo the OEM top airbox metal clamps to loosen the airbox. Remove airbox filter. Observe the dirt! Yucky.

3. Using phillips head screwdriver, unscrew the two small screws holding the Mass Air Flow connector (MAF) from the airbox. Also using flathead screwdriver pry the MAF wiring plastic anchors from the airbox.

4. Once the MAF connector and wiring is free from the airbox pull the MAF sensor carefully from inside the airbox. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Dont knock this little thing around it costs a lot of money and can cause you a check engine light upon reinsertion. Be nice to it.

5. Disconnect the PVC hose from the airbox inlet pipe. To do this pinch the hose clamp and move it back away from the clamping point then pull the hose off the airbox. Tug it good and it will free.

6. With all hoses and wiring free from the airbox, go to the clamp that connect the airbox hose to the throttle body (TB = silver metal part). Using a phillips head screwdriver untighten the screw holding the clamp. When loose, move the clamp around and away from the clamping location.

7. Using a flathead screwdriver gently pry the airbox hose off of the throttle body pipe. Use some force here as that thing is TIGHT on the pipe. After removing airbox clean TB pipe area.

8. Remove the upper airbox component from the engine compartment.

9. The lower airbox component is secured by two bolts. Using a wrench remove these bolts then remove lower airbox from engine compartment.

This completes part 1

Part 2: Installation of Intake System

10. Insert assembled intake into engine compartment to test fit. Do not secure clamps at this time. Insert intake silicon connector to throttle body to test connection. This fitment must be tight with no vacuum loss (air escaping from connection). Adjust if neccessary.

11. Once fitment is correct tighten two supplied metal clamps to intake throttle body silicone connector.

12. Tighten two supplied metal clamps to intake filter element end.

13. Remove 4 nuts from engine cover and remove it. This is done to access the PVC hose coming off engine block.

14. Remove PVC hose from engine block by squeezing the clamp on hose and
moving back from clamp point. Tug the hose and it will come off for removal.

15. Measure new PVC replacement hose supplied with intake for fitment. The new hose will connect using the OEM factory clamps at both ends of engine block and intake pipe.

16. Cut the black tape that connects PVC hose to other hose in engine compartment. This will free hose to be removed from engine compartment.

17. Cut new supplied PVC hose with utility knife after test fitment. Ensure you have not cut the supplied pipe too short to fit on intake pipe from engine block.

18. Connect PVC pipe at both ends using factory clamps. Replace engine cover and tighten nuts.

19. Recheck all clamps, hose connections for tightness.

20. Start engine, let idle for 5 or 10 minutes for ECU to adjust to intake. Check for any Check Engine Lights (CEL). If you get this response turn engine off and recheck all hose mounts and clamp mounts.

NOTE: The intake I received came with a chrome mounting bracket shown in the pics. I have not used it yet but am planning to as an intake can bounce around a bit depending on vehicle motion and engine RPMs.

That's it. Enjoy the more aggressive sound coming from your engine bay.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg intake01.jpg (159.7 KB, 2939 views)
File Type: jpg intake01a.jpg (113.3 KB, 2848 views)
File Type: jpg intake02.jpg (119.1 KB, 2831 views)
File Type: jpg intake03.jpg (98.7 KB, 2819 views)
File Type: jpg intake04.jpg (144.3 KB, 2808 views)
File Type: jpg intake05.jpg (147.7 KB, 2811 views)
File Type: jpg intake06.jpg (122.9 KB, 2790 views)
File Type: jpg intake07.jpg (103.2 KB, 2785 views)
File Type: jpg intake08.jpg (100.8 KB, 2784 views)
File Type: jpg intake09.jpg (112.2 KB, 2801 views)
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Last edited by redyaris; 08-23-2007 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:06 PM   #2
redyaris
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Part 2 pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg intake11.jpg (78.3 KB, 2768 views)
File Type: jpg intake12.jpg (150.6 KB, 2762 views)
File Type: jpg intake13.jpg (114.3 KB, 2750 views)
File Type: jpg intake14.jpg (190.3 KB, 2754 views)
File Type: jpg intake15.jpg (181.7 KB, 3155 views)
File Type: jpg intake16.jpg (81.8 KB, 2746 views)
File Type: jpg intake17.jpg (125.9 KB, 2746 views)
File Type: jpg intake18.jpg (110.9 KB, 2731 views)
File Type: jpg intake19.jpg (223.9 KB, 2729 views)
File Type: jpg intake20.jpg (103.8 KB, 2734 views)
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:08 PM   #3
redyaris
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Part 3 pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg intake21.jpg (73.1 KB, 2719 views)
File Type: jpg intake22.jpg (145.5 KB, 2719 views)
File Type: jpg intake23.jpg (136.4 KB, 2701 views)
File Type: jpg intake24.jpg (115.0 KB, 2698 views)
File Type: jpg intake25.jpg (107.3 KB, 2700 views)
File Type: jpg intake26.jpg (73.0 KB, 2693 views)
File Type: jpg intake27.jpg (69.3 KB, 2702 views)
File Type: jpg intake28.jpg (163.7 KB, 2806 views)
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:12 PM   #4
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Nice write up....
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:14 PM   #5
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Nice install!!

How much?

How does the car feel?
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:22 PM   #6
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nice writeup. a few notes:
I didnt need to use the supplied breather tube, the stock one was long enough.

the bracket can be inserted under the hoseclamp on the filter end. you will notice its hooked and curved at one end, stick this under the clamp. the other end can be secured onto a bolt, I used one that was next to the headlight area in the front left corner of the car.

good luck!
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:28 PM   #7
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Yes Alpha the OEM hose was almost nearly long enough. I started not to use the supplied hose.

I havent noticed any difference in engine 'feel' and a slight difference in sound from the engine mainly because my exhaust is drowning it out! LOLOL.

And the price? Currently I dont think $109 shipped can be beat for a legitimate name brand intake....plus it came with an extra filter and filter cleaner!

NOTE: You need to lightly oil the filter prior to installation. Forgot to mention that. Its also recommended you clean the filter every 3000 miles.
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:45 PM   #8
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Excellent write up!

I like the intake, but why is the pipe so freakin long? I would think the shorter the better... Possibly to get cooler air from the headlight hole???
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:58 PM   #9
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nice write up, simple to, i might just get this kind of intake, where did you get it, did you get it from a sponsor here?
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:08 PM   #10
redyaris
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I agree. The pipe is a little long. The length puts the filter almost on top of the headlamp unit. And they call it 'short ram'!
I got the intake from the sponsor classified section from wesellcarparts.com

Fast shipping with tracking number, low price, no hassle. Thats my idea of a great sponsor.

BTW, I moved the hoses that previously sat on top of the OEM airbox under the new intake. It secures them more and helps to show off the intake better.
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:23 PM   #11
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I wonder what a few minutes with a hacksaw could do??? You would definately want to use the bracket at that point and it wouldn't rattle anymore.
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:08 PM   #12
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Yea I just purchased and installed this intake as well. I agree it is pretty long and takes a little bit of manuevering to get it in there right. I used the mounting back to keep it wedged in there a little better and it seems to do the job. I also left the stock hose intact because when I take it to the dealers for my oil changes I will putting the stock intake back on and switching it when they are done.

But very nice write up.

And I agree, Maybe a litle work with the hacksaw to shorten it up just a bit....
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:16 PM   #13
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Before you guys go through the trouble of installing an in-take system, did it ever occur to you that most of those systems on a Yaris will add a pitiful amount of HP? What, 1,2,4 HP? Before you spent your hard earned $$ on that thing, did you research this? And I don't mean by reading claims from the maker of such devices.....

I would be surprised if any one having a new in-take, if they get more then 5 HP from it....My buddy just did same for his 2007 Mazda Speed3 and the before and after Dyno showed an increase of just 6 HP....the idiot didn't do his research....after $600 installed he gained a whopping 6 HP!!!!

Save your money gents!
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redyaris View Post
Yes Alpha the OEM hose was almost nearly long enough. I started not to use the supplied hose.

I havent noticed any difference in engine 'feel' and a slight difference in sound from the engine mainly because my exhaust is drowning it out! LOLOL.

And the price? Currently I dont think $109 shipped can be beat for a legitimate name brand intake....plus it came with an extra filter and filter cleaner!

NOTE: You need to lightly oil the filter prior to installation. Forgot to mention that. Its also recommended you clean the filter every 3000 miles.
So if there is no increase in performance, why the hell did you do it?!?
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:22 PM   #15
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1. 5HP gain out of a 300HP engine would be ridiculous, but remember our weedwacker engines are not exactly all that powerful... 5HP is close to a 5% increase, which is not too bad, and small increases here and there will add up
2. This particular intake is $109 shipped, it's a decent chunk of change but not exactly a huge waste of money. As for your friend with his $600 intake, that's quite a different story
3. Looks better than the stock plastic box, sounds better too

If the guy's happy with the results, that's all that should matter, right?
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:16 PM   #16
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Nice Man!!!! You just wont stop moddin. I got the AEM that goes over the rail and into the bumper area. It was a minor hp gain and a lot of rev up noise which is ok by me.
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:04 AM   #17
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Wish I would have had this DIY a month ago when I fumbled my way through putting mine in. I picked this intake for the price but also because it's the only one that shows actual dino results for in a Yaris with a 5hp gain. Can I feel 5hp? Probably not. Do I think I can feel 5hp? Youbetcha! I think it's a psychological thing that makes our brains make the connection between: more sound = more power. Every little bit helps though.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:09 AM   #18
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Very nice. I believe this is the first DIY I have seen for the intake. Was it just me or was the bolts at the bottom of the air box a pain in the @$$ to get out well at least down to.
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