Can we do this? (aka The DIY Cruise Control Thread)

[mrbond]

As I took off my steering column cover, I noticed that there was a rectangle of thinned plastic where a cruise control stalk would normally go. It got me to thinking, what if we could plug this in? After all, almost all Toyota electronics, like this and turn signal stalks, etc, are interchangeable.
This attached picture makes me think, since our cars are drive by wire, that it would be plug and play. I could be wrong, of course, since I'm not a Toyota mechanic. Anyone have any input?

[AlexNet0]

Oh realllly, would this also apply to the 07 5spd?

[devinlamothe]

WHAT. If this is the case, I am totally going to buy the stalk and install this!!

[Edit]: Does anyone know what the part # for the stalk is?

[AlexNet0]

If someone can get a part number on that I'll order it and try it if its not outragously expensive

[mrbond]

The factory part (it's the same for the Yaris, Camry, Rav4, etc) is on ebay for like $13 plus $17 shipping. The part number, for those who don't want to use ebay is 8463234011

[devinlamothe]

The factory part (it's the same for the Yaris, Camry, Rav4, etc) is on ebay for like $13 plus $17 shipping. The part number, for those who don't want to use ebay is 8463234011
Yeah I just found it on eBay. Going to order one and test it out!

[mrbond]

^lol I just ordered one maybe 20 minutes ago. Let's see whose comes first!

[AlexNet0]

I did not!.... oh wait... yes I did..

[devinlamothe]

^ lol. I just ordered one too. You will most likely get yours first, as things take literally forever to cross the border by USPS. But, it's better than paying tons of $$$ for UPS.

[AlexNet0]

If it needs another control module, Ill just buy that too, now that ive ordered the stalk switch. Ive seen a wrecked prius in a local yard I can check for one.

[firemachine69]

^ lol. I just ordered one too. You will most likely get yours first, as things take literally forever to cross the border by USPS. But, it's better than paying tons of $$$ for UPS.

Give me a heads up if it works.


BTW, we have weekly car meets at the "big" timmies on Lorne Sunday night at 8pm. I should be there tomorrow. It's in the "events" of our local forum (noted below, no spaces.)

www. sudburyrides. com

[jess]

I'm hoping it works too!

What else might be pre-wired?

My Y was barebones from the dealership.

[AlexNet0]

well it looks like 4 of us have ordered it in the last few minutes HAHA so one of us should be able to say yay or nay

[devinlamothe]

Give me a heads up if it works.


BTW, we have weekly car meets at the "big" timmies on Lorne Sunday night at 8pm. I should be there tomorrow. It's in the "events" of our local forum (noted below, no spaces.)

www. sudburyrides. com

I will shoot you a PM if it indeed works. I may or may not make it out tomorrow, since I am being dragged to Easter dinner with my family ... and they like to eat late. :frown:

[devinlamothe]

well it looks like 4 of us have ordered it in the last few minutes HAHA so one of us should be able to say yay or nay

Yeah I was looking at one of the stalks on eBay and refreshed the page, and it says "This item has been bought using Buy it Now" LOL so one of you guys most likely stole that one away from me haha.

[Kal-El]

If it's that cheap and easy, why doesn't Toyota just make Cruise standard on the Yaris? We're talking like $15 a Yaris? Seems like the expensive part is already installed (wiring/cruise mechanics).

:confused:

[devinlamothe]

If it's that cheap and easy, why doesn't Toyota just make Cruise standard on the Yaris? We're talking like $15 a Yaris? Seems like the expensive part is already installed (wiring/cruise mechanics).

:confused:

And if it doesn't work then we are out $15 bucks, not a big deal. :tongue:

[kenkyd]

oh this is tense

[Kal-El]

cause not everyone wants/needs it. and also why ask 15$ if you can ask 500$. anyways right now its 50-50.

Well, I mean from the factory unless Toyota wants dealers to rip off it's customers? And there's lot's of things included in cars that some people may not use. The point is, is that if every component of cruise control is present except for a $15 stock, it seems wastful not to include it and be an extra selling point for the Yaris - "standard cruise control". It would benefit Toyota.

[mrbond]

^ it would certainly benefit Toyota from a sales standpoint, but Toyota is just like any other major business: cost conscious. This is why we have a LOT of hard plastic inside, and why power windows and locks are still an option. The Yaris was meant to be a cheap, fuel efficient car. By that philosophy, it wouldn't make sense for Toyota to put a $98 control stalk (that's the MSRP for this part) in every Yaris. There's millions of Yarii in the world, so it would add up real quick.

[eTiMaGo]

I'm moving this to the DIY forum where it would be more appropriate.

Not to rain on your parade guys, but I have not seen anywhere in the technical manuals that there is any kind of built-in programming/circuitry for cruise control. I may very well be wrong of course :smile:

[devinlamothe]

I'm moving this to the DIY forum where it would be more appropriate.

Not to rain on your parade guys, but I have not seen anywhere in the technical manuals that there is any kind of built-in programming/circuitry for cruise control. I may very well be wrong of course :smile:

:eek: Say it isn't so!! lol

[devinlamothe]

Taken from the cruise control system manual for an '07 sedan:
The
ECM controls the throttle opening angle based on
signals from switches and sensors.
The microcomputer which controls the cruise control
system is built into the ECM, and uses is the throttle
position sensor and motor as the actuator.
Constant speed control gets ready when the cruise
control main switch ON-OFF button is pushed (the
CRUISE MAIN indicator light comes on).

[eTiMaGo]

well whaddaya know... like the man with one short leg says after an operation, I stand corrected!

[devinlamothe]

well whaddaya know... like the man with one short leg says after an operation, I stand corrected!

After reading the manual it seems the only thing you need to 'activate' the cruise is the stalk, as it serves as the main 'switch' to tell the ECU to turn cruise on... now, the only problem I see is any yarii who do not have the CRUISE light on the dash (mine doesn't). Not sure how that is going to work? I guess you will just have to make sure you know when it's on or off, lol.

BTW, here is the manual if you want to take a look. It's for a sedan but I'm assuming it will be the same for the hatch.

[mrbond]

well whaddaya know... like the man with one short leg says after an operation, I stand corrected!

lol reminds me of Seamus from Family guy.

[devinlamothe]

Well after reading a bit more, it would seem the ECU has to have the cruise programming in it for it to function. Now I am confused, time for sleep LOL :iono:

[goku87]

If this works I will totally do it. :thumbup:

[Shroomster]

lol just to let Pk know, you need the abs valve assembly for the abs to work.

[Shroomster]

i realize that , but we're talking pre wired electrical system for it which i believe all yarii share.

o.i.c.

[MadMax]

now, the only problem I see is any yarii who do not have the CRUISE light on the dash (mine doesn't). Not sure how that is going to work? I guess you will just have to make sure you know when it's on or off, lol.

I have the factory cruise control in my 08 US-specs LB, and there is no cruise control light on the dash...

By the way, if this is true I wish I had told the dealership to remove the stalk and cut the price by $300. I rarely use the cruise control...

Cheers! M2

[devinlamothe]

I have the factory cruise control in my 08 US-specs LB, and there is no cruise control light on the dash...

By the way, if this is true I wish I had told the dealership to remove the stalk and cut the price by $300. I rarely use the cruise control...

Cheers! M2

Interesting ... well then maybe this is getting better and better lol

[enobmort42]

::crosses fingers::

[devinlamothe]

Bah. I just got this from the guy I ordered from:

I will ship your goods as soon as the post office is open. Thailand Holiday ( Thailand New Year) is April 12--17 2009. I will ship your goods on April 18 2009

[manborn]

Just checked, CRUISE light when on shows top right of 100 MPH.

[mrbond]

Bah. I just got this from the guy I ordered from:

lol yeah, I got that too. :rolleyes:

[mrbond]

lol oh the things you can start when you take off parts of your car.

[MGargano]

Ordered one from the same guy before everyone else snatches them up! Fingers crossed! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170320582267

[pismo61]

I did this on a 2006 Toyota Tacoma.You needed the cruise control stalk,a jumper wire for inside the steering wheel,a piece that snaped into the side of the steering wheel for the stalk to stick out of,and switch for the clutch.The tacomas are all pre wired.I got the info on a Toyota forum web site pictures and all.It was about 120.00 for all parts.Cant remember the exact forum but its a popular one.Searched it toyotanation.com in the tacoma area.

[Uncle Yaris]

Here's an interesting eBay listing.

http://tinyurl.com/dl2rfn

The switch looks like the illustration in the '07 Yaris manual (the one in the original post in this thread doesn't)

There are some illustrations in the eBay listing (scroll down) that no doubt tell us all we need to know, but unfortunately they are in Thai. Anyone who can translate?

[Treyz]

I have no idea how if these new systems work the same as older models, but I do know that on those older models, there was a vacuum canister inside the engine bay for the cruise control. So there deff may be an extra part needed, but again, that was for cabled lder models.

No idea if the rule has changed for DBW.

[elmo]

i hope this works i really miss CC


fingers crossed XXXXXXXXXX

[firebob]

I was going to say something about needing a new peace of plastic for the back of the steering wheel or the steering column depending on where this mounts but pismo61 got to it first.

I did a bunch of searching and it looks like the automatics just need the new plastic and the switch. I’m not sure on the manuals but we will see soon.

[Danish Yaris]

Hi

If it works on your Toyota Yarises, does anybody then know if it will be the same for an European model Toyota Yaris?
If I should buy the Cruise Control kit in Denmark the price is about $600 plus install, but it´s a kit with some extra. I know on the Toyota Avensis from 2004 or so untill 2008 you only need the stalk, two screws and two wires.

Regards Steven.

[devinlamothe]

For the plastic piece ... do you mean where the stalk comes out of? Couldn't you just dremel/drill a hole?

[anexrx7]

Alright guys, I got one for you in the mean time while you're waiting for your parts. Does anyone have a junker switch available? Or any sort of electronic experience? The reason I ask is you could possibly "build" one to experiment. I would jump on it on my car, but I'm only on vacation for 9 more months 7000 miles from my car... Let me know if you guys are interested because I can still help, I do that stuff for a living.

[tk-421]

Alright guys, I got one for you in the mean time while you're waiting for your parts. Does anyone have a junker switch available? Or any sort of electronic experience? The reason I ask is you could possibly "build" one to experiment. I would jump on it on my car, but I'm only on vacation for 9 more months 7000 miles from my car... Let me know if you guys are interested because I can still help, I do that stuff for a living.
PK, this has your name written all over it. :wink:

[IllusionX]

since this is DBW, im pretty sure toyota has removed one of the units that control the cruise control.

PK, if you have time, could you look at the complete wiring of the cruise control ? does it end at some place where there should be a box, but it isn't there??


also, the last thing i know, that if i got the cruise control from Toyota (back in late 06), i would not have gotten the OEM cruise control system...

[Uncle Yaris]

since this is DBW, im pretty sure toyota has removed one of the units that control the cruise control.

PK, if you have time, could you look at the complete wiring of the cruise control ? does it end at some place where there should be a box, but it isn't there??


also, the last thing i know, that if i got the cruise control from Toyota (back in late 06), i would not have gotten the OEM cruise control system...

I've been wading through the various Toyota PDF documentation that people have posted here. The circuit for the CC seems to be very simple - two wires from the switch, one of which is a ground, go through the spiral cable back of the steering wheel. The "hot" wire goes to the ECM. The only other units involved are the things that should be there already, like brake light switch and throttle control. Unless they have embedded some "gotcha" in the ECM coding, I don't see why this wouldn't work.

[firebob]

Just form the reading that I found all the wiring is there and the ECM dose the rest if you have the switches.

[MGargano]

from what i saw in both the EWD and the Cruise Control diagram is that everything is there. The stalk enables the inputs of the ECM that in turn tell the ECM cruise control is enabled. Now does it mean that option is always available or does it have to be enabled at the dealer we will know when we get the stalks. The diagram says the ECM already has the programming necessary for cruise control the stalk seems to be missing for a complete circuit.

As for the steering column trim , there is an outline for the placement of the stalk

Should this work for the 5-speed and auto trans. alike? Or would the 5-speed require something else?

[AlexNet0]

the 5 speed uses the clutch switch and brake switch while the auto uses the gear position sensor and brake switch.

ooh, that may be a problem, haha, I crimped off my clutch switch for the remote starter, maybe I can make a bypass switch instead of leaving it crimped off :iono:

[MGargano]

the 5 speed uses the clutch switch and brake switch while the auto uses the gear position sensor and brake switch.

Does this mean, if all goes according to plan, that I'll need something other than the eBay stalk to make this work? This is assuming, of course, that the eBay stalk does what we all hope it will.

[MGargano]

ok thanks. Fingers crossed that this goes as planned!

[AlexNet0]

cant help you there i have no clue how your remote starter is connected sorry:iono:

I was just thinking out loud. I basically removed the clutch switch and the starter is permanantly enabled, not just when the clutch pedal is pressed. When i do this, if it works, I will have to install another switch.

[enobmort42]

...because i hate waiting for shipping, i stopped into the dealer to see the cost on this. $125 for the stalk, and if needed, either $44 or $16 for the jumper. then again, this isn't a tacoma; do we need it?

and the moral of the story: wait for the shipping! :w00t:

[IllusionX]

lol i'd love to know... you should've paid extra for express shipping ^_^

[AlexNet0]

mine was just shipped as well

[mrbond]

Yup, just got my notice as well. lol apparently Thailand is 4 days ahead of us? jk

[MGargano]

Mine just shipped as well

[goku87]

Man, I really want to know if this will work. I'm all excited.

[tk-421]

Man, I really want to know if this will work. I'm all excited.
+1

This could be the ultimate cheap mod for the Yaris. Quite interested in the developments. :thumbsup:

[enobmort42]

^ def!

[IllusionX]

<---- can't wait to know the answer

and guess what, MicroImage will stock this item? XD

[marcus]

wow if this works then this will save you $400 atleast..coz thats what toyota canada cahrges for cruise control..4-$450 canadian installation included ofcourse.

[IllusionX]

wow if this works then this will save you $400 atleast..coz thats what toyota canada cahrges for cruise control..4-$450 canadian installation included ofcourse.

but that's not the OEM cruise.

[Shroomster]

meh...we got the cruise for free when they were writing the paper work and the stalk is on the left side of the steering column

[The Spectacle]

interesting...

[mrbond]

^ I believe that's the aftermarket one he's talking about? Idk though

[devinlamothe]

Anyone have trouble getting the steering wheel bolts off (the hex screws on the side)? I was going to try and just check the mounting spot today but couldn't even get the screws to budge.

I'm thinking I need a torque wrench?

[IllusionX]

meh...we got the cruise for free when they were writing the paper work and the stalk is on the left side of the steering column

you sure? i never saw the OEM one installed. the one we got is listed as a direct replacement for the OEM.:iono:

You see, that's exactly what i'm talking about. Shroommaster got the aftermarket cruise control, which is exactly NOT what i wanted.

that was my main worry so i did not get the cruise option when i bought my yaris aero. I remembered, at the time, the sedan with package C came with factory cruise control.

[Shroomster]

thats weird in the manual its on the right side:iono:

yeah I thought so too...I'm pretty sure it's aftermarket as the switch itself doesn't toggle, it has three buttons....also there is no IPC light just a very bright annoying (at night) green light on the stalk to let you know it's on and ready to use.

the damn thing isn't visible through the holes in the steering wheel either, and it's backwards from what I'm used to....

top button is for decrease/set

side button is for on/off

bottom button is accel/cancel...weird huh....

[Castaway]

Sounds like it's installed upside down...:iono:

[Shroomster]

Sounds like it's installed upside down...:iono:

I dunno...words read fine....lol

[IllusionX]

i'm pretty sure it's who does it first. lol

too bad i wasn't in the crowd who "ordered it first"

[MadMax]

yeah I thought so too...I'm pretty sure it's aftermarket as the switch itself doesn't toggle, it has three buttons....also there is no IPC light just a very bright annoying (at night) green light on the stalk to let you know it's on and ready to use.

the damn thing isn't visible through the holes in the steering wheel either, and it's backwards from what I'm used to....

top button is for decrease/set

side button is for on/off

bottom button is accel/cancel...weird huh....

Actually, I thought I had factory cruise control but that sounds like what I have, which I now suspect is a Rostra Precision Controls Inc. aftermarket set-up (http://news.hspn.com/articles/430/1/Rostra-Introduces-Custom-Designed-Cruise-Control-System-for-Toyota-Yaris/Page1.html)...does it look like this?

http://news.hspn.com/content_images/2006/old/yariscruisecontrol1.jpg

Plus, if that is aftermarket, what does the factory set-up look like?

BTW, the Rostra has been discussed before (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1300)...

[Shroomster]

^^^that is the stalk that's installed


and this BELOW, is what an O.E.M toyota cruise stalk looks like...



http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4176/pict0407bs4.jpg

courtesy of a toyotanation.com DIY

[1NZYaris1]

So does this need to be run through the clock spring :iono:
if so does that mean we have to replace it as well.
just a thougt ,and probably a bad one.:bellyroll:

[lunjiaow]

you may need the wire to connect it to the clockspring.
http://foto.ixbt.com/photo/281579/9642B2evBvOVzm/156624w.jpg
http://foto.ixbt.com/photo/281579/9642B2evBvOVzm/156628w.jpg
top pictures are from the corolla... assuming it will be some what similar to the yaris.
i think the part number for that wire is 84633-42030

[AlexNet0]

I think the pic of the one I Bought showed a wire with it. If not Ill just make one, no biggie.

The guy told me it shipped but no tracking #? is that because its USPS?

[AlexNet0]

lol, okay. I usually deal with UPS and FedEx, I guess im spoiled that way.

[lunjiaow]

^^^that is the stalk that's installed


and this BELOW, is what an O.E.M toyota cruise stalk looks like...



http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4176/pict0407bs4.jpg

courtesy of a toyotanation.com DIY

Well i just pulled my yaris airbag/horn out... and turns out to be like the picture above.

[AlexNet0]

The thought crossed my mind as well

[Klink10]

how hard is it tho pull off the cover? i a bit scared of taking it off since i dont want my airbag to blow up in my face

Pulling the cover was a piece of cake. Changed out my steering wheel to a Scion and the install took me 20 minutes. To disable the airbag, I disconnected the battery the night prior. Check here on the forum, I can't for the life of me remember who did this first but they did a good write up on how to. It really pointed out battery disconnect and prying the wires for complete airbag removal.

[lunjiaow]

Yeah. its just two T30 torx bits on each side of the steering wheel. then just pull the horn/airbag off, be careful not to deploy the airbag and dont disconnet the airbag when battery is still connected. Its recommended to disconnect the battery and wait 60seconds or so to discharge power. I just wanted to check whats behind the steering wheel so i didn't disconnect the battery. Took less then 5mins to take out.

[IllusionX]

my dealer had remove the top cover of my dashboard, and they did remove the passenger air bag without disconnecting the battery.

[ozmdd]

Airbag pullers: its very easy. Make sure the battery is disconnected for a few minutes (I think the manual says 3-6, I waited 10), then use the CORRECT torx driver to remove the 2 side-bolts (you'll need one with a bit of reach), and it might take a decent tug to break the bolt initially, but then its easy). You should matchmark your wheel before you pull it. You shouldn't need a wheel pullet, just tug back-and-forth till it comes off. If you move your closckspring at all, read the directions on how to reset it. Its not hard, but needs to be done right or it will be an EXPENSIVE repair, and might set-off the airbag when you are turning. This is not a process to be afraid of, just take your time and know the steps. BTW - the "clockspring" is the name for the circular plastic unit behind the steerign wheel that allows all the wires to reach the steering wheel/cruise/airbag/horns and still spin the steering wheel round-and-round, where some very old vehicles ran the wires through a hollow center shaft.

[devinlamothe]

Airbag pullers: its very easy. Make sure the battery is disconnected for a few minutes (I think the manual says 3-6, I waited 10), then use the CORRECT torx driver to remove the 2 side-bolts (you'll need one with a bit of reach), and it might take a decent tug to break the bolt initially, but then its easy). You should matchmark your wheel before you pull it. You shouldn't need a wheel pullet, just tug back-and-forth till it comes off. If you move your closckspring at all, read the directions on how to reset it. Its not hard, but needs to be done right or it will be an EXPENSIVE repair, and might set-off the airbag when you are turning. This is not a process to be afraid of, just take your time and know the steps. BTW - the "clockspring" is the name for the circular plastic unit behind the steerign wheel that allows all the wires to reach the steering wheel/cruise/airbag/horns and still spin the steering wheel round-and-round, where some very old vehicles ran the wires through a hollow center shaft.
The problem I am having are the torx screws on the side ... they seem really hard to get off lol. But then again I was using a regular screw driver ... would a torque wrench do it? Or should I be using more force?

[enobmort42]

I was just reading this DIY (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10038) a little while ago. I'm a huge fan of picture step-by-steps lol.

[Shroomster]

The problem I am having are the torx screws on the side ... they seem really hard to get off lol. But then again I was using a regular screw driver ... would a torque wrench do it? Or should I be using more force?




no...the TORX refers to the head/socket....
http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/wp-content/uploads/lespaul-disassembly-torx-closeup.jpg courtesy of fakeplasticrock.com

[devinlamothe]

no...the TORX refers to the head/socket....
http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/wp-content/uploads/lespaul-disassembly-torx-closeup.jpg courtesy of fakeplasticrock.com

No I know what torx are. I was just saying if a torque wrench using a torx head would do the trick.

I managed to get it though, the bit I was using was really crappy, so I ended up buying a new one and it worked.

[Edit]: Never mind, the wire that is connecting to the clockspring is the ground for the airbag and is replaced with the OEM wiring connection to/from the cruise stalk. Whew. Hopefully we get ours in the mail soon!

[marcus]

lolz funny about the airbag..i remember a video about an echo owner where the airbag deployed while hes drumming on his dash..knocked him out cold..

here i found it

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1150637/air_bag_knocks_dude_out_cold/

[IllusionX]

the chances someone drumming on this steering wheel, the air bag deploying while someone is filming is VERY slim...

[Shroomster]

the tags for the video as well as the other videos recommended lead me to believe it's from a car insurance company....

[CTScott]

guys , easy wait for CTScott to confirm if this is doable. From what i saw in the wiring it seems it will work , but i don't want you guys to spend money if you need an extra control module for it to work

Sorry for the delay in looking into this, but I was away on vacation. I looked this morning and agree that it should work with simply adding the switch.

Here is a quote from the 09 service manual:
"The microcomputer which controls the cruise control system is built into the ECM, and uses the throttle position sensor and motor as the actuator."

The stalk basically just has 4 switches and 3 resistors. The quick and dirty test (without removing the airbag) would be to short the ECM CCS pin to ground. If the cruise light illuminates on the combination meter, you are good to go.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/Cruise.jpg

[CTScott]

i think we need to be rolling above 25mph for the cruise to enable , its one of the failsafe conditions.

25mph is the minimum limit for "set", but the manual doesn't list a speed limit for the on/off function.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

I just checked - my car ('08 5-door) doesn't have the wiring from the spiral cable to the ECM - nothing coming from that plug except the thin black horn wire. If the wiring for cruise were present, there would be two more wires.

So, installing cruise is probably still possible, but unfortunately it's not just a matter of adding a switch.

[ka0sx]

guys, those of you who are saying few minutes, be careful, some car systems can take over an hour to discharge the sustaining capacitors, also ground yourself to prevent static discharge.

[CTScott]

I just checked - my car ('08 5-door) doesn't have the wiring from the spiral cable to the ECM - nothing coming from that plug except the thin black horn wire. If the wiring for cruise were present, there would be two more wires.

So, installing cruise is probably still possible, but unfortunately it's not just a matter of adding a switch.


My '09 has a blue wire in pin 1 and a brown in pin 3.

When I look at the models that the stalk part number is applicable to I see 06-09 sedans, but only 09 liftbacks.

[CTScott]

thats not where you connect the stalk to and the wire for css is already there,
wire 1 and 3 from the stalk is connected to 3 and 4 on the spiral cable

The stalk connects to the spiral cable on the steering wheel hub end, but the connector he pictured is the output of the spiral cable, heading towards the ECM. In his picture, the CCS wire (blue on my 09) is missing.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

do you have that wire? the way i was looking at the ewd it seemed like these are used only as test points. either way it shouldn't be hard to just use the jumeper to connect the D3 with A21 i need to pop my cover to see better

I've done some research with the documentation that members have provided, and I can assure you that you need two wires coming out of that plug, in addition to the horn wire. One of them is blue and goes to the ECU. The other is a yellow ground wire.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

....Anyways we shall see....

You said it.

[CTScott]

Here's a comparison of SodiumDuck's 08 (left) and my 09 (right) (from when we installed our remote starters). Mine has the blue and brown, and his just has the black horn wire.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/Comparison-SteeringColumn.jpg

On the EWD, the spiral cable is just the block between 3B and 1A, as well as the block between 1C and 8A on the horn diagram on page 145. The spiral cable simply brings the signals off of the movable steering wheel. (If we had the European steering wheel controls, they would most likely connect through the last unused pin).

[enobmort42]

i'm beginning to get lost in all the technical talk. i should probably take a look at mine up in there.. unless someone can tell me if i have what it takes to do this by telling them that i have an '07 lb hatch? :thumbup:

[CTScott]

I was thinking that I was having deja-vu on this topic and found this topic from a while back:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9919&highlight=cruise&page=3

Out of curiosity, have you checked to see if your combination meter has the two cruise lights.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

No cruise light on my dash panel. It has a fog light icon, though (no actual fog lights in the car).

Canadian 2008 5-door hatch.

[mikenacarato]

ah so since the cruise connects to the inside of the oem steerig wheel looks like i cant add it since i have an aftermarket wheel :(

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

ah so since the cruise connects to the inside of the oem steerig wheel looks like i cant add it since i have an aftermarket wheel :(

You could install one of the aftermarket Rostra brand units, which doesn't attach to the steering wheel. Be prepared to pay lots, though.

[CTScott]

You could install one of the aftermarket Rostra brand units, which doesn't attach to the steering wheel. Be prepared to pay lots, though.


Or you could add four momentary switches (On/Off, Set, Up, Down) to the dash like I am going to do to save on buying the stalk and on having to pull the airbag.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Or you could add four momentary switches (On/Off, Set, Up, Down) to the dash like I am going to do to save on buying the stalk and on having to pull the airbag.

Good luck with that - those functions on the stock switch work through resistors and involve the extremely expensive central engine computer (ECM). The resistors are the squiggly lines in the diagram. It's important to know the exact values to make it work right. A familiarity with Ohm's Law would help, too.

[CTScott]

Good luck with that - those functions on the stock switch work through resistors and involve the extremely expensive central engine computer (ECM). The resistors are the squiggly lines in the diagram. It's important to know the exact values to make it work right.

Correct. The resistor values are:
216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

This is a standard way of having multiple inputs on a single wire.

[CTScott]

you realize CTScott is an electrical engineer right:biggrin: and Im a electrical engineering tech


BTW CTScott i was thinking the same thing about the switches except Im thinking of mounting them in my door armrest right above the handle, i will most likely canibalize the stalk and use jumper wires and a LED to show the status

I am soldering up a two button test rig right now. I have a Karate class at 8, so I am hoping to test on/off and Set on my way there...

[CTScott]

OK. My two button rig is connected. When I turn the ignition on and press my on/off switch the speedometer icon lights up. Now to throw on my dobuk and hit the road for the road test...

[IllusionX]

PK: if you are going to make yourself a new set of switches... don't cannibalize your stalk... sell it to me :)

[CTScott]

so you connected it straight to D3?

Worked like a charm!

I used tap splices onto pins 1 (blue) and 3 (brown) of D3.
http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/Cruise1.jpg


My test setup consisted of 2 feet of 2 conductor cable going to two parallel switches. The first is the On/Off switch which connects directly to the two wires. The second is the Set switch and has a 660 ohm resistor on the CCS line from the first to it.
http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/Cruise2.jpg


Here's the combination meter in the garage with the ignition on and the on/off button pressed once:
http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/Cruise4.jpg

Here's the meter with the Set button pressed at 35 MPH (and my foot off the gas):
http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/Cruise3.jpg


The Set button doubles as the - button, so each press would drop the speed by one MPH. When I pressed the On/Off button while CC was on, it would drop the lights and decelerate until I put my foot on the gas. So, at this point I have free cruise control (from parts lying around my office).

Now I just have to find some switches that I like to button it up...

[AlexNet0]

thats awesome, you should make a step by step how-to with a link to the resistors to use, I would actually prefer this way

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Very tidy - congrats to CTScott on getting the first practical results out of this discussion.

I'm not an electrical engineer - just a licensed mechanic. I have an aversion to hacking into the wiring on a near-new car that's still on warranty, but I can see my way clear now to acquiring the necessary bits to do it right.

[AlexNet0]

Alex check if you have the wires in D3 otherwise you will need jumper wires

Will do tomorrow

[CTScott]

great news, although i suspect that you have factory installed wire going to AD4 junction box.

my turn but only after my exams lol. which switched you plan on running.

Have you checked to see if there is a wire leaving pin 15 of connector AD4? If there is, then tapping there wouldn't be any worse than tapping D3. Also, you only need that one wire, as the other just needs to connect to any ground point.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnAD4-EngineRoomMainWireandInstru.jpg

[CTScott]

if you look on page 105 of the EWD it says pin 6 for the AD4 box from D3.

That's correct. I was looking at the wrong blue when I typed that. When Alex checks his D3 connector (where I am 90% sure he'll just see the lonely horn wire), he should then check Pin 6 of AD4 to see if there is a wire there.

[CTScott]

the only PITA is that the AD4 box is under the dash near the windshield. But why would he only have the Horn wire, whats different from your Yaris?:iono:
did you get an extra option or what? The other thing is on mine i don't have the Cruise Icon, so i would need to McGyver a way to get a LED to light up when I turn on the cruise

I think that only 09 Liftbacks have the two additional wires in D3, as Sir A.Y. Atoyot's 08 didn't and neither did SodiumDuck's 08.

[CTScott]

cool, ill pop mine tomorrow and let you know if the 07 has it or not. how did you approximate the resistor values, because from the diagram the values given are for the total resistance , i.e each resistor adds to the other to create a final resistance depending on which switch is active. I.e cancel one takes all three resistors into consideration

The service manual gave resistance ranges from CCS to ground with each of the four switches pressed.

Resume picks up just the first resistor, so its resistor value is simply the value listed.

Set picks up the first two, so I subtracted the value for Resume from total resistance measurement with Set pressed to get the second value.

Cancel picks up all three, so I subtracted the value total resistance for Set from the total for Cancel to get the value of the third.

[CTScott]

ok thats logical , i wasn't sure about the 10k resistance when the switch is off. but i guess that's the "ECM impedance". so i guess we could use:

Standard values:
RES ---> 240Ohms
SET ---> 620Ohms
Cancel ---> 1600ohms
All these in 5% tolerance level or even 1%


NOTE: TO ALL ATTEMPTING THIS WAY MAKE SURE YOUR SWITCHES DO NOT HAVE A BUILT IN RESISTANCE OR THIS WILL CHANGE THE VALUE OF THE TOTAL RESISTANCE AND MAY CAUSE UNRELIABLE CRUISE CONTROL FUNCTION OR DAMAGE TO THE CSS PORT OF THE ECM

Those are correct if you wire the switches with the resistor in series with each. If you wire it per the stalk schematic they would be:

216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

By the way, you actually can't harm the EMC port with the wrong resistors, as the port can handle a direct short (as the on/off switch does) to infinite resistance (no buttons pressed).

[Creeper]

so with the switches option do we still have to take off the airbag or just the stearing column cover?

[devinlamothe]

The switches you will only need to take the steering column off and look for two wires from the D3 connector a blue one and a brown one. Now if you don't have these you will most likely need to attach at least one jumper wire to act as the OEM blue wire that goes from D3 to junction box AD4 which is located on the driver side near the windshield, thus you will have to take off the dash most likely (unless someone has an easier way of accessing this location)

Hopefully there is an easier way of getting there as I have no intention to take my whole dash off :confused:

I am going to be putting a new headlight stalk on tomorrow so I will check my '07 liftback to see if the wires are there.

[Creeper]

ill have to look next time i work on my car. when my projectors get here... also gotta try to do easy fix on my back bumper :( anyway ill check my 07 hatch when i can..

[CTScott]

ok 07s do not have wires from D3 only the horn wire. i'm trying to find an easier way to tap into the AD4 box ill keep you posted.

It may just be easier to connect to the wire on the ECM instead of trying to get to AD4. The ECM connector is so easy to access under the hood and poking a wire through the giant firewall grommet under the dash is easy as well.

[Shroomster]

so have any of you even gotten the stalk to work yet? lol

[Shroomster]

the stalk will work 100% , the problem is we will most likely need to use jumper wires to connect the rest of the system together , its not a big job but it needs to be done.

short answer...no, but in progress :biggrin:


keep at it you guys....

[mrbond]

I'd hope one of you would post a short DIY for connecting the jumper wires. With pictures :P
Have any of you received your stalks yet btw? I'm still waiting on mine, and the tracking number I was given wasn't valid :/

[AlexNet0]

I'm still waiting on mine, and the tracking number I was given wasn't valid :/


+1

[mrbond]

it will probably be a team effort between CTScott and I for the DIY. Im off to dive under the dash to figure out a way to get to the AD4 (i swear its almost as well hidden as the Gspot :biggrin:)

Lol, shouldn't be too hard to find then rofl

[MGargano]

I'd hope one of you would post a short DIY for connecting the jumper wires. With pictures :P
Have any of you received your stalks yet btw? I'm still waiting on mine, and the tracking number I was given wasn't valid :/

I had the same problem with the tracking number... weird.

[CTScott]

So, I am trying to decide between four pushbutton switches mounted on the left black vertical trim piece to the side of the radio, a miniature 4-way joystick to emulate the stalk, or a four button keypad:

Four of one of these:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/E-Switch%20Photos/RP3502A-BLK.jpg

http://media.digikey.com/photos/Lumex%20Photos/CLS-PC11A125S00B.jpg

http://media.digikey.com/photos/E-Switch%20Photos/LP1OA1AR.JPG



or this:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Panasonic%20Photos/EVQ-Q5A05K.jpg

or one of these:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Storm%20Interface%20Photos/PLX041203.jpg

http://media.digikey.com/photos/Storm%20Interface%20Photos/70040203.jpg

http://cpc.farnell.com/productimages/farnell/standard/42268540.jpg

[devinlamothe]

OK so I get the dumbshit award of the century here. I was replacing my headlight stalk and at the same time checking the wire from the clockspring, and I swung my arm and accidentally hit the clockspring, and the wire BROKE. So now I have no horn/airbag until a new one comes in (which is $450 CAD). I am so pissed at myself you have no idea lol

Lesson: DO NOT HIT THE CLOCKSPRING OR THE WIRE WILL BREAK!! :(

[enobmort42]

OK so I get the dumbshit award of the century here. I was replacing my headlight stalk and at the same time checking the wire from the clockspring, and I swung my arm and accidentally hit the clockspring, and the wire BROKE. So now I have no horn/airbag until a new one comes in (which is $450 CAD). I am so pissed at myself you have no idea lol

Lesson: DO NOT HIT THE CLOCKSPRING OR THE WIRE WILL BREAK!! :(

ahhhh! oh no! :eek:

[devinlamothe]

are you talking about the clockspring itself being broken or the connecting wires to the D3 connector?

The internal ribbon cable ripped out of the connection on the side ... I tried to see if it could be put back by taking the clockspring apart, but, stupid toyota glued the cable as well as had a clamp. If it was just clamped, it would have been fine.

The one good result, the turn signal is a lot quieter LOL

[CTScott]

CTScott, check these out:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/8698/ele-272.jpg/ele-374/Blue_Illuminated_Bulgin_Style_Latching_Vandal_Swit ch_-_22mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Ring_Illumination.html?tl=g4c153s315

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ele-272.jpg

this one is the latching one they also have momentary ones

I ran into those, but they are kind of large (~1" in diameter)

[IllusionX]

ok so i checked the ECM in the engine bay and the 07 and therefore 08 seem to have the connection to A21 pin 40 (that is the ECM input pin 40) the wire is BLUE. Now this means that the junction box AD4 has this wire and it is accessed by pin 6 on the AD4 junction connector. Now im almost certain the only way to get to AD4 is to take off the top instrument panel.

I tried to find a suitable replacement for the AD4 but it seems this is the only way to get to the ECM pin 40 without having to go through the firewall. Now if someone knows of a fast and easy way of removing the top instrument panel please share your wisdom.

share the wisdom? pull the cluster cover, 2 bolts to remove the cluster and 2 cables to unplug.

pull the glove box, under there, there are 2 bolts that bolts down the air bag. unbolt and unplug the air bag (1 plug if i remember well, and no need to disconnect the battery) and then just pop the dash top cover, it comes right off, with the air bag.

I did it with the mechanics at Toyota. Took less than 5mins.

[CTScott]

ok i just found something super cool check this out CTScott:
http://www.nkksmartswitch.com/products/oled.asp

OLED Switches

We experimented with some of those for a work project. They are mighty cool, and about $60 each.

[CTScott]

do they come with embedded memory or you need to have a line in to display the images?

The ones that we were playing with had an embedded processor in them, so you could serially upload a .jpg converted to a .hex file.

[AlexNet0]

has anyone gotten it yet? how long do you think it should take?

[CTScott]

has anyone gotten it yet? how long do you think it should take?

Gotten the Ebay stalks or gotten cruise working?

I've been cruising all week with my prototype setup. Today I ordered from Digikey a couple of different switch options since I can't decide which type I like best.

[2006fronty]

mine was supposed to be delivered today but I wasn't home, I'm going to pick it up at the post office tomorrow.

[IllusionX]

no stalk in the mail , but most likely ill be giving this one up for sale and going with the switches like CTScott, we just need to coordinate which switches we will use since i dont wanna copycat him

hey, i'm 1st on the list for your stalk.

[Liu997]

Who wants to sell me their stalk, I'm second.

[devinlamothe]

I'll probably be selling my stalk as well since I don't feel comfortable taking the dash apart to run the wires.

[mrbond]

Well, I'm still waiting on my stalk, and I'm relatively comfortable taking apart the dash. I think, PK198105, that the wiring diagrams and such will need to be clarified...at least for my sake :P

[mrbond]

^ lol whenever the damn stalk feels like arriving @_@

[mikenacarato]

ive got a friend at work who wants to do this pretty bad. what exactly would he have to do to run the oem switch. can someone type some quick step by step directions?

[IllusionX]

has the stalk arrived yet? PK ??

[mikenacarato]

ya if you could take some pics pk that would be marvelous :)

[CTScott]

I received my switches and buttoned mine up today. I decided to stick with two switches (on/off and Set), as I never bother with resume or +/-. I mounted the switches where the engine start button would go.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Cruise-Done.jpg

[kenkyd]

1. take the steering column cover off and look for a connector called D3 , its the white one closest to you when you take off the cover. See if the connector has a blue wire coming out of it. if it does than all you need to do is connect the oem switch to the spiral cable and your are done.

2. if you dont have that blue wire you will need to take the dash apart to get to AD4 junction box, and that is another story. when i have some free time ill try to take some pics of the process.

can we figure out what year/options/model will determine these 2?

[AlexNet0]

well i know for a fact the 2007 doesn't have the wires at D3 and you need to take the dash apart, same for the 08. 09s apperantly have them


Oh great lol

[kenkyd]

Oh great lol
x2

[enobmort42]

CTScott, that's awesome. I expect a full write-up with pictures on my desk by tomorrow morning. lol jk :tongue:

just a question, but must there be two buttons, or is it possible for there be a rocker switch, similar to the factory power window buttons?

[CTScott]

CTScott, that's awesome. I expect a full write-up with pictures on my desk by tomorrow morning. lol jk :tongue:

just a question, but must there be two buttons, or is it possible for there be a rocker switch, similar to the factory power window buttons?

Hey, I'm just waiting for PK's writeup on running that dang wire on your antiques.

I actually bought four different types of switches, including two 4-way joystick type ones that turned out to be too small, as they are really intended to be used on mobile phones. one momentary-off-momentary rocker switch could be used in place of my two switches, or two could be used to provide all four functions.

[AlexNet0]

Has everyone else already recieves their stalk switches?

[mrbond]

Nope. Still waiting impatiently.

[MGargano]

Nope. Still waiting impatiently.

Ditto. Should be any day now I hope. I have an '09 so hopefully the install should be simple.

[Shroomster]

CTSscott, is your setup able to be cancelled by pressing the brake? and can you over-ride the set speed with acceleration to a new speed and then pressing set again?

[CTScott]

CTSscott, is your setup able to be cancelled by pressing the brake? and can you over-ride the set speed with acceleration to a new speed and then pressing set again?

Yes - Brake (or on/off button) cancels it and I can accelerate and hit set again to lock in a new speed.

[enobmort42]

very nice! given my expertise with cars, this will be a fun summer project! lol

[AlexNet0]

it wont be an issue as long as I can find the pin under the dash with help from PK's writeup or instructions/pics, whatever, lol

[CTScott]

I just posted a DIY for those with 09s, who wish to use the switch method:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=302783#post302783

[33OH]

Hurry up PK! :biggrin:

[Pitt Yaris]

Very cool, I'm thinking of mounting the switch where my auto mirror adjustment would be to the left of the steering wheel

[CTScott]

I just added a note on my DIY in regards to cars with MT. TDB-1 PM'd me tonight. He attempted the two button method on his 09, and the on/off worked, but not the set. He inquired if there was anything different about a MT, and it turns out that the MT requires a second switch on the clutch for cruise.

The "Cruise Control Clutch Switch" is needed as well. This is a second clutch switch (there's already one called the "Clutch Start Switch"). The "Cruise Control Clutch Switch" connects to connector A29. Its part number is: 88280-14030 and it lists for ~$18.

[CTScott]

ahhh so its not the same as the clutch switch for the ignition inhibit

Seems pretty silly, except the start one detects fully pressed and the cruise on detects the initial press of the pedal.

[MGargano]

I just added a note on my DIY in regards to cars with MT. TDB-1 PM'd me tonight. He attempted the two button method on his 09, and the on/off worked, but not the set. He inquired if there was anything different about a MT, and it turns out that the MT requires a second switch on the clutch for cruise.

The "Cruise Control Clutch Switch" is needed as well. This is a second clutch switch (there's already one called the "Clutch Start Switch"). The "Cruise Control Clutch Switch" connects to connector A29. Its part number is: 88280-14030 and it lists for ~$18.

Is the 'Cruise Control Clutch Switch' only needed if using your two button method on a MT? Will I still need it if I'm using the OEM stalk?

[CtrlAltDefeat]

Damn damn damn! I have an 08 MT. That's 2 strikes. My dream of $20 OEM CC is fading fast... :frown:

[CTScott]

Is the 'Cruise Control Clutch Switch' only needed if using your two button method on a MT? Will I still need it if I'm using the OEM stalk?


Yes, the clutch switch is just for MT, and it is still needed with the OEM stalk. It keeps the car from over revving if you press the clutch while in cruise mode.

[nickhjort]

There's no way of rigging your own MT Clutch Switch for doing this DIY? Not that 18 bucks is that bad, but if you didn't want to wait around for the thing to show and could possibly use some stuff you have laying around in your electronics drawer?

[TDB-1]

Ok I just finished up my 2 button cruise setup on my 09 3 door 5speed. I did everything as per the DIY and it works great!!!! I had to jump the clutch switch for the test until I get the correct switch. This works just don't step on the clutch while on cruise or the engine could over rev. I got my switches at Radio Shack for $2.69 each and they look identical to the ones in the DIY. I used 2- 330 ohm resisters also from Radio Shack that cost $.99 for a 5 pack. This is the best thing I did to the car since I got it. THANKS to all who figured this was possible

[nickhjort]

Also I searched quick and I couldn't find anything on removing the dash for the 07 liftback 3dr. Does anyone know where I might find a quick reference guide?

[nickhjort]

Found it...nevermind :) Also they got my Clutch switch at the nearby dealer for 19 bucks. So I'll just splurge and pick me up one of those later this week. But I'll jump it for now, just so I can test it :)

[nickhjort]

Yup that's where I found it. Thanks :)

[nickhjort]

PK198105 or CTScott, or anybody for that matter :)
PK198105 mentioned if you didn't have blue wires under the sterring wheel, then you'd have to find the AD4 junction box. Well my car is ripped apart (see picture) and I need help finding the right box and which wires to splice into for this cruise control. I set my switches up just like CTScott has them and now I just need to splice wires. Please help me when you guys get a chance. I wanna drive my car by, at least, tomorrow...By the way all these pics are of the top left section of where my dash used to be :) Is there where I should be looking for this "AD4 junction box"?
Also where might I splice the LED wires so that the LED comes on when the cruise is on? Any ideas?

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6514.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6513.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6512.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6511.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6510.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6509.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6505.jpg

[CTScott]

Nice pictures! How hard was it to remove the top?

I am out right now for about two more hours. As soon as I am home, I'll look closer and get back to you.

[nickhjort]

Thank you so much, I have about 3 hours before the sun light is bye bye. It wasn't too hard to remove the top. Couple scratches and bruises on my hands, but now that I know how, of course, I can do it a lot quicker next time.

[nickhjort]

I'm not the best at reading wiring diagrams, but from what I can see my car doesn't even have this "ad4 plug" see picture...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6515.jpg

And I can't find a plug hanging down that would plug into the Clutch Switch for Cruise Control. I can see where the switch mounts to the Clutch Pedal Mount...but no plug. Please help me :(

[nickhjort]

Also if this is the case, does that mean my ECU doesn't even have the Cruise control programmed into it, so I can't tap a wire right from the ECU itself? I hope I can do this...seeing as I already drilled my holes and put switches :) (kicks self for not getting priorities straightened out before starting project...1. Check to see if this will work...2. Then cut $hit up HAHAHA!! Not the other way around...)

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

ok it looks like its the grey connector right under the yellow one, although im not 100% sure.

I think you're right, especially since the factory diagram has a note saying "gray" on the picture of the AD4 plug.

[CTScott]

It is definitely the grey next to the yellow. Pin 1 is orange, 10 is yellow, and 5 in pink, and I see those clearly.

In the pics I don't see the right angle to tell if the Pin 6 blue wire (CCS) is there. It should go 5-pink, 6-blue, and 7-brown.

[CTScott]

As for the clutch switch wiring. At the ECM it is pin 56 of Connector C20. From there is connects through pin 14 of CA1 (the right rear connector in the under hood fuse box). It is a blue wire - shown below (For AT, two wires come into the one pin). For your test, you can jumper it to the white wire, two pins to the right of it.


22731

[nickhjort]

How you guys can read that diagram...I don't know, but thank god you can :) Thanks so much! You guys are awesome! I lost the last of my light though, so tomorrow I'm gunna finish this up and we'll see how it works. I'll take some more pictures as I splice and dice, just to kinda help with someone's DIY (I'm not gunna write one up...not a very good public speaker).

[nickhjort]

Well I just checked and I have no blue wire in slot 6...I have a blue wire in slot 15 though. That's on the top part, and on the bottom, I can't see under it right now to look for a wire, but when I unplug it and look in at the metal pins, there isn't one where that blue wire in slot 15 should be and there isn't one in slot 6. I hope I'm explaining this ok for now, until I can take more pics tomorrow. Is it possible there is a wire going into the harness, but there's no metal pin for the plug part? I dunno I'll check tomorrow when I don't have to use a flashlight :)

[CTScott]

Well I just checked and I have no blue wire in slot 6...I have a blue wire in slot 15 though. That's on the top part, and on the bottom, I can't see under it right now to look for a wire, but when I unplug it and look in at the metal pins, there isn't one where that blue wire in slot 15 should be and there isn't one in slot 6. I hope I'm explaining this ok for now, until I can take more pics tomorrow. Is it possible there is a wire going into the harness, but there's no metal pin for the plug part? I dunno I'll check tomorrow when I don't have to use a flashlight :)

The blue one in 15 is a CAN bus wire (CANH to the combination meter). So, it looks like your next stop is the ECM Connector A21, Pin 40. I would think that the absence of a wire in AD4-6 means that A21-40 will be empty as well.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/Cruise.jpg

[nickhjort]

So that means I can't do this huh?

[nickhjort]

I'm guessing there's a pin in the ECM at slot 40 for the cruise, but no wire on the plastic connector part. I wonder how hard it would be to just insert a wire on the connector. I'll have to see how the wires are in there and if you can get one of those little metal pins and attatch a wire to it.

[CTScott]

So that means I can't do this huh?

I'm starting to understand why the Rostra CC kit for 06-08's consists of more than a couple of switches and resistors...

[nickhjort]

Is your 07 the same PK198105? I wonder if you have the wiring under the dash unlike mine. If not, what would you do? Say oh well, hang up the towel? I really want this cruise cause I drive to work back and forth about 45 mins each way. It would be really helpful. I mean I'm pretty confident in my wiring abilities. Solder, heat shrink, etc. But of course I don't wanna fuck anything up so bad my dash is gunna end up like that guys in Australia I saw on here today.

[nickhjort]

Cool. Well we'll see tomorrow then.

[nickhjort]

As for the clutch switch wiring. At the ECM it is pin 56 of Connector C20. From there is connects through pin 14 of CA1 (the right rear connector in the under hood fuse box). It is a blue wire - shown below (For AT, two wires come into the one pin). For your test, you can jumper it to the white wire, two pins to the right of it.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/ClutchSwitchWire.jpg

I know you said this is the wire for the clutch switch, and this is really more than a question than me trying to correct you, but this diagram makes it look like the black wire in box a25 is the clutch switch wire, and it looks like it's outside of that fuse box in the engine bay? Or is this some other totally different thing and I'm just getting myself more confused? Again I have a very vague understanding of these schematics and I'm just trying to learn some more about them :iono:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/Untitled-1.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/Untitled-2.jpg

[goku87]

Anyone have trouble getting the steering wheel bolts off (the hex screws on the side)? I was going to try and just check the mounting spot today but couldn't even get the screws to budge.

I'm thinking I need a torque wrench?

a torque wrench would not help losening it. those are for tightening to a specific torque, ie ft-lb or in-lb, hence the name.

get a hammer. that might help. :thumbsup: j/k j/k. dont really do that.

[CTScott]

I know you said this is the wire for the clutch switch, and this is really more than a question than me trying to correct you, but this diagram makes it look like the black wire in box a25 is the clutch switch wire, and it looks like it's outside of that fuse box in the engine bay? Or is this some other totally different thing and I'm just getting myself more confused? Again I have a very vague understanding of these schematics and I'm just trying to learn some more about them :iono:




The black wire is just a +12V source that flows through the clutch switch to the ECM input. The A25 connector is a nighmare to get at, so the white wire, I said to jump the blue to, is a much easier to get at alternative to the black wire in A25.

[devinlamothe]

a torque wrench would not help losening it. those are for tightening to a specific torque, ie ft-lb or in-lb, hence the name.

get a hammer. that might help. :thumbsup: j/k j/k. dont really do that.

I ended up getting it off ... I meant using the torque wrench as a breaker bar of sorts to give me leverage... and it worked. :tongue:

[nickhjort]

I see, I see. One other quick question. If I don't have all the wiring for this from the ECM, do you think I will have to do anything to get the brake switch to work, or will it already be programmed to turn off the cruise control when I hit the break? And I didn't see the plug for the clutch switch near where the switch goes...will I have to wire that once I buy the actual switch and take the jumper out?

[CTScott]

I see, I see. One other quick question. If I don't have all the wiring for this from the ECM, do you think I will have to do anything to get the brake switch to work, or will it already be programmed to turn off the cruise control when I hit the break? And I didn't see the plug for the clutch switch near where the switch goes...will I have to wire that once I buy the actual switch and take the jumper out?

If your Yaris has the brake switch, then your OK, as there is only one.

For the clutch switch, if this works, then you'll have to snake a wire from the under hood fuse box to the clutch switch and wire it yourself.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

I ended up getting it off ... I meant using the torque wrench as a breaker bar of sorts to give me leverage... and it worked. :tongue:

If you were really using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, you should know that this is a bad practice - it could make the torque wrench inaccurate (at least), or even destroy it. It's a much better idea to get an actual breaker bar. The one shown is likely bigger than you need, but they are available in a variety of sizes.

[nickhjort]

Ok...so the first test didn't go so hot. I have some pics...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6517.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6522.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6520.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6521.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6523.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6524.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6527.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6529.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6532-1.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6525.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/ClutchSwitchWire.jpg




So I started the car and the airbag light was on...duh...I don't have the passenger side plugged in. I pulled out the driveway nice and easy so as not to tip over my speedometer. I hit 40mph and press that "on" button...pop! There goes a fuse and all my dash lights start coming on and the "cool" light is blinking, and the car is boggin down. It didn't stall, but it wouldn't go faster. SO I pulled over and started checking fuses. My 7.5A Ignition fuse blew. Now I'm not sure if something crossed or what. I checked and double checked all my connections. Not bare wires, nothin'. I changed the fuse and everything was fine...safe to say I didn't try testing it again on the way home :)

Here's what I did:
I tapped the #40 pin on the ECM connector "A21" and ran the wire through the firewall and spliced it with the red wire from the switch setup.
Then I took a jumper...with a fuse... and jumped from the blue wire CTScott showed me in the engine compartment fuse box, but the white wire wasn't where it should be, but it was just to ground it. So I jumped it to another white wire that grounded (according to my multimeter touching the white wire and the frame...0 resistance) Anyway, I have no idea why it tripped the ingnition fuse. Please help me with any ideas. I hope i didn't fcuk up the ECM by blowing the fuse. Everything seemed perfectly fine when I replaced it. HELP! :(

[supmet]

If you were really using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, you should know that this is a bad practice - it could make the torque wrench inaccurate (at least), or even destroy it.

When I was reading his post about using a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, all I could think was "somebody's dad is gonna be PISSED"

[CtrlAltDefeat]

The more I read, the less i want to do this lol Maybe if someone does it and gets it right with a good diy...

[nickhjort]

That's what I'm saying now :) I might wait and finish after someone smarter than me does it and includes nice pics to follow haha!

[MGargano]

Ditto for me. I have the 09 and bought the OEM stalk, but mine's a 5 spd. so I'm worried about the clutch switch install

[CTScott]

Ok...so the first test didn't go so hot. I have some pics...

So I started the car and the airbag light was on...duh...I don't have the passenger side plugged in. I pulled out the driveway nice and easy so as not to tip over my speedometer. I hit 40mph and press that "on" button...pop! There goes a fuse and all my dash lights start coming on and the "cool" light is blinking, and the car is boggin down. It didn't stall, but it wouldn't go faster. SO I pulled over and started checking fuses. My 7.5A Ignition fuse blew. Now I'm not sure if something crossed or what. I checked and double checked all my connections. Not bare wires, nothin'. I changed the fuse and everything was fine...safe to say I didn't try testing it again on the way home :)

Here's what I did:
I tapped the #40 pin on the ECM connector "A21" and ran the wire through the firewall and spliced it with the red wire from the switch setup.
Then I took a jumper...with a fuse... and jumped from the blue wire CTScott showed me in the engine compartment fuse box, but the white wire wasn't where it should be, but it was just to ground it. So I jumped it to another white wire that grounded (according to my multimeter touching the white wire and the frame...0 resistance) Anyway, I have no idea why it tripped the ingnition fuse. Please help me with any ideas. I hope i didn't fcuk up the ECM by blowing the fuse. Everything seemed perfectly fine when I replaced it. HELP! :(


I think your in the wrong pin on the ECU:


This is the Wire harness side view looking into the connector from the pins:
http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/Cruise.jpg

I think you're mirror imaged across the center divider:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6524.jpg

[CTScott]

Oh, and the white that you jumper the clutch switch wire to is indeed the one I meant, so you're OK there...

[nickhjort]

Ok i see that now that I look at the pic. You had one more white one in with the brown one huh? And I see I was looking at the wrong side of the connector...duh. Anyway I'm gunna try that other pin in the ecm and try again tomorrow. Thanks a lot we'll see what happens :)

[CTScott]

Ok i see that now that I look at the pic. You had one more white one in with the brown one huh? Anyway I'm gunna try that other pin in the ecu and try again tomorrow. Thanks a lot we'll see what happens :)

Sorry about the confusion on that. I didn't realize until I dropped the pic on the computer that the white I meant was hidden and the other white was right there in the foreground.

I was just tracing the 7.5A IGN fuse and I think that the pin you are on, on the ECM, is hot, so when you hit the switch it grounded it and popped the fuse, as that fuse feeds parts of the ECM.

By the way, before you road test with the correct pin, try the ON button in the driveway to be safe. I can hit the on with the ignition on and engine off and the cruise light comes on. Obviously you won't be able to tell if cruise is actually working, but at least you'll know if you pop a fuse.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Ok...so the first test didn't go so hot. I have some pics...


So I started the car and the airbag light was on...duh...I don't have the passenger side plugged in. I pulled out the driveway nice and easy so as not to tip over my speedometer. I hit 40mph and press that "on" button...pop! There goes a fuse and all my dash lights start coming on and the "cool" light is blinking, and the car is boggin down. It didn't stall, but it wouldn't go faster. SO I pulled over and started checking fuses. My 7.5A Ignition fuse blew. Now I'm not sure if something crossed or what. I checked and double checked all my connections. Not bare wires, nothin'. I changed the fuse and everything was fine...safe to say I didn't try testing it again on the way home :)

Here's what I did:
I tapped the #40 pin on the ECM connector "A21" and ran the wire through the firewall and spliced it with the red wire from the switch setup.
Then I took a jumper...with a fuse... and jumped from the blue wire CTScott showed me in the engine compartment fuse box, but the white wire wasn't where it should be, but it was just to ground it. So I jumped it to another white wire that grounded (according to my multimeter touching the white wire and the frame...0 resistance) Anyway, I have no idea why it tripped the ingnition fuse. Please help me with any ideas. I hope i didn't fcuk up the ECM by blowing the fuse. Everything seemed perfectly fine when I replaced it. HELP! :( I think that you identified #40 correctly on your first picture, but got turned around somehow with the plug - I could be wrong, but I think that you inserted your jumper in #29.

[nickhjort]

Yes, yes people it's all coming together now. I did get turned around and had it in pin 29, not pin 40. I couldn't wait till tomorrow, got my flash light and just cruised the town without touching the gas pedal :) It works! I did test the button just before I left, and the fuse didn't pop. So my second road test was a success. Thank you all for your help and if anyone else with the 07 liftback is gunna do this I can try to help as much as I can. Running wires all the way to the ECM is a pain in the arse, but it's totally worth it. If anyone needs anymore pictures let me know and I'll try to take them tomorrow.

All I need to do now is find out a way to make my LED light up when it's on. And run wires for the clutch switch which I will be buying later this week. Any input on that would be greatly appreciated.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6524-1.jpg

[CTScott]

Awesome! I'll design a circuit for the LED. It will probably require changing the on/of switch to a DPDT switch, as the LED circuit will have to be controlled by the switch, rather than the ECM.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Yes, yes people it's all coming together now. I did get turned around and had it in pin 29, not pin 40. I couldn't wait till tomorrow, got my flash light and just cruised the town without touching the gas pedal :) It works! I did test the button just before I left, and the fuse didn't pop. So my second road test was a success. Thank you all for your help and if anyone else with the 07 liftback is gunna do this I can try to help as much as I can. Running wires all the way to the ECM is a pain in the arse, but it's totally worth it. If anyone needs anymore pictures let me know and I'll try to take them tomorrow.

All I need to do now is find out a way to make my LED light up when it's on. And run wires for the clutch switch which I will be buying later this week. Any input on that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for being the guinea pig - this will certainly help me install in my '08.

[nickhjort]

You don't think the wires going to the speedo and stuff has the cruise wire in it even though I don't have cruise indicator...? That would be much easier :)

[CTScott]

You don't think the wires going to the speedo and stuff has the cruise wire in it even though I don't have cruise indicator...? That would be much easier :)

Unfortunately not. The microcontroller for the combination meter gets the cruise status from the ECM over the CAN bus.

The only possibility that I can see is that the microcontroller appears to drive all of the status LEDs via a 4-bit multiplexer. It is possible that the micro is programed to support the LED, but has not connection to it. If you want to disassemble your meter and take some pictures of the PCB I can take a look.

[nickhjort]

I can take some pics tomorrow. You need the back or front of the circuit board? I might see how hard it's gunna be to change the led's while I'm at it. Change the colors of my speedo and stuff.

[CTScott]

I can take some pics tomorrow. You need the back or front of the circuit board? I might see how hard it's gunna be to change the led's while I'm at it. Change the colors of my speedo and stuff.

Both sides if you can get at them. If not, some good macros of the IC's so I can figure out what they are and the pinouts of them.

[nickhjort]

Damn, thanks for doing all this $hit man. I'll get the pics for ya tomorrow.

[devinlamothe]

When I was reading his post about using a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, all I could think was "somebody's dad is gonna be PISSED"

Hmm I am old enough to be a dad lol ... and don't worry, it's a cheap-o one from crappy tire that has a metal 'needle' bar that you can easily bend back. I don't care if it breaks or not, I just needed a long breaker bar type deal, and since breaker bars here are ~$30, it was cheaper to buy a $9 torque wrench for the same deal.

[CTScott]

Scott why not just take an OR gate and use that for the LED. Or a simple 2N2222 transistor setup as a switch.

The circuit needs to be a bistable flip-flop.

[mrbond]

Alright, so to make the OEM stalk work, how would it be different than what nickhjort is doing?

[CTScott]

Alright, so to make the OEM stalk work, how would it be different than what nickhjort is doing?

The only difference will be that instead of ending up at his switches, your two wires will end at the stalk. Everything else is identical.

[mrbond]

What about the extra wires I need? Any particular gauge or material?
Also - would I go about threading the wires through the steering wheel via the clockspring wiring?
And on the stalk, which wire is which? I have a lot of questions because the majority of this thread was about adding buttons for cruise control, and the stalk was only talked about at the very beginning.

[CTScott]

What about the extra wires I need? Any particular gauge or material?
Also - would I go about threading the wires through the steering wheel via the clockspring wiring?
And on the stalk, which wire is which? I have a lot of questions because the majority of this thread was about adding buttons for cruise control, and the stalk was only talked about at the very beginning.


I would go with somewhere between 18 and 22 gauge. Insulation material is not critical.

The wires are already in the clockspring, so you will just plug in the stalk connector when you pull off the steering wheel.

On the other end of the spiral cable (at the connector shown below, next to the yellow one) you don't have the blue and brown wires in pins 1 (blue) and 3 (brown), so you will either have to find pins that fit, or solder the wires right to the connector's pins.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnD3.jpg

[mrbond]

I'm definitely missing something. Where do the additional 2 wires from D3 go? I mean, with the switch method for models other than the 09, it seems like you don't need to use D3. But since I'm going to be using the stalk, I need to use D3.

[CTScott]

I'm definitely missing something. Where do the additional 2 wires from D3 go? I mean, with the switch method for models other than the 09, it seems like you don't need to use D3. But since I'm going to be using the stalk, I need to use D3.

The connector above is D3. If you use the switch method for 08, then you go straight from the ECM to the switches.

For the stalk method the wire from pin 40 of the ECM goes where the blue wire is above in D3. Where the brown wire is in D3, you will run a wire from that position to a ground point.

[mrbond]

And I wouldn't need to bother with the clutch control switch then?

[CTScott]

And I wouldn't need to bother with the clutch control switch then?

You would still need the cruise clutch switch (if your car is MT). It connects from the clutch switch (which you would have to add) on the pedal bracket to the under hood fuse box. It is separate from the stalk and its wiring.

[nickhjort]

Here's those pics CTScott...hope they are good enough. If you need more I can take more tomorrow. I'm heading to work right now...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6535.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6536.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6537.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6538.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6539.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6540.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6541.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6542.jpg
\http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6543.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6544.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6545.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6546.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6547.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6548.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6549.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6550.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6551.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6552.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG6553.jpg

Sorry there's so many on this post, but I figured the more the better :) Let me know what you think. Like I said before, I feel pretty confident in my basic electrical abilities. I can solder to PCB's and all that fun stuff. I would rather not switch the switches around (since I just got them all done and looking good), but however I can get that light to light up I'll do it. Oh and also I have a 12V LED in there right now, only cause I had a bunch laying around. Let me know if I need a different voltage LED too. Thanks again.

And I hope all this stuff is helping other people want to do this mod. I've spent less than $10 so far. $500 or $10...no brainer :thumbsup:

[CTScott]

Excellent pics! Let me scratch around them a bit and see what I can come up with.

[33OH]

And I hope all this stuff is helping other people want to do this mod. I've spent less than $10 so far. $500 or $10...no brainer :thumbsup:

Definitely watching. I hate doing electrical work, so waiting on another dummy like me to attempt it. Or a nice DIY wrote up. :thumbsup:

Great work so far guys.

[nickhjort]

Well I'm your dummy ryank! :laugh::thumbup:
And Thanks for scratching around CTScott. My car is all put back together for now, so I won't get a chance to work on it again till this weekend. In the meantime, lemme know what you think about the LED. Thanks a million!

[CTScott]

Excellent pics! Let me scratch around them a bit and see what I can come up with.



OK. To figure this out, we'll need the meter PCB to be hooked up to the car. What you'll have to do is turn the ignition on, and initially take 16 voltage measurements, then press your cruise on button and take the 16 again. If one of the 16 changes after turning cruise on, we'll know that that pin would drive the cruise LED if the car had one.

IC500 and IC501 are the "8 bit shift registers". Each of them can drive 8 LEDs. We need to look at pins 3 through 6 and 11 through 14 on each.

Pin 1 is the pin under the "1" after the IC50x label. In your picture which has the text upside down, Pin 3 is right above the middle of the 00 in IC500 and right above the 1 in IC501. In that view, 4, 5 and 6 are to the right of 3.

Pin 9 is at the top right in that view (next to the upside down 9). Pin 11 is two pins to the left of 9. 12, 13, and 14 are to the left on 11.

So, connect it up, turn the ignition switch on, and measure from a ground point to each of those 16 pins. They will measure ~0.5 VDC, or ~5.0 VDC.

Then, press your cruise on button and measure all 16 again.

[MGargano]

If I'm using the OEM stalk method on an '09, is it just plug & play? I know I need the cruise control clutch switch but I'm wondering if there are any other wires/connections I need to make to get it working.

[CTScott]

If I'm using the OEM stalk method on an '09, is it just plug & play? I know I need the cruise control clutch switch but I'm wondering if there are any other wires/connections I need to make to get it working.

No - That's it. For an 09 AT, it's just mount and plug in the stalk and you're done. For 09 MT, same plus mount and plug in the clutch switch. No running of any additional wires on either.

[CTScott]

Ok i did a bit of scratching on my own, btw great pics of the meter, i think i killed two birds with one stone. First it is my belief that the 07 meters are not even programmed for cruise because there is not even a connector for the LED and no trace for it either. you do not have a tach am i correct Nick? therefore the icon should be under the speedo needle to the right of it and from the pics i see none. So Scott i don't think that checking the shift registers will do anything if the controller doesn't have the program that will allow it to send the signal to the icon.

Second some of you may remember this i was trying to figure out a way to switch from metric to mph and vice versa, well thanks to your pics Nick i came to the conclusion that this also is not possible to "hack", I read the Repair manual Meter section and the only way to switch this is through the Intelligent tester.

here is the list of things that can be Customized through the intelligent tester:
Display (Item) Default Contents Setting
KEY REMIND SOUND SLOW Changes key reminder buzzer
intervals FAST / NORMAL / SLOW
LIGHT REMIND ON Turns light reminder buzzer ON
and OFF ON / OFF
SEAT BELT WARN D/P ON Turns seat belt warning buzzer
ON and OFF D/P ON / D ON / P ON / D/P OFF

UNITS BY REGION Different for every region Changes drive monitor display
units
KM/L JP / KM/L / ML/G US / ML/
G UK / KM/G



I realize that the LED is not there and that there is a good chance that the microcontroller is not programmed to support the cruise LED, but two days ago I would have said the same for the ECM, when he found that the wire didn't exist in pin 40, and the cruise clutch switch wiring didn't exist.

[CTScott]

so what do we do?

I say check the shift register output for the heck of it, as I don't believe that all 16 outputs are in use.

[schleppy]

Just as a side note, I think it would be worthwhile if a mod re-named this thread to something like "DIY Cruise Control how-to, 2007-2009".

The current thread title won't be helpful in future searches :D

[MGargano]

No - That's it. For an 09 AT, it's just mount and plug in the stalk and you're done. For 09 MT, same plus mount and plug in the clutch switch. No running of any additional wires on either.

Is there a DIY for mounting/wiring the clutch switch? I haven't gotten it yet so I'm not even sure what it looks like/where to put it.

[CTScott]

Is there a DIY for mounting/wiring the clutch switch? I haven't gotten it yet so I'm not even sure what it looks like/where to put it.

Take a look at this DIY on installing cruise on a Matrix. It shows the Clutch Switch installation:

http://matrixowners.com/index.php?act=Print&client=printer&f=23&t=71247

[MGargano]

Take a look at this DIY on installing cruise on a Matrix. It shows the Clutch Switch installation:

http://matrixowners.com/index.php?act=Print&client=printer&f=23&t=71247

Looks like the plug for this switch should already be hanging somewhere under the dash, if I'm reading this correctly. Seems pretty straight forward.

[CTScott]

Looks like the plug for this switch should already be hanging somewhere under the dash, if I'm reading this correctly. Seems pretty straight forward.

Correct. Plug is hanging there. Remove bolt, screw in switch, plug in connector.

[nickhjort]

Alright you guys, I'm home and I used my Cruise Control to and from work...it was GREAT! Definatly worth the trouble. But of course right now it's kind of a pain to always be wondering "Did I turn it on yet? Is it on or off right now? I sure wished this LED worked." :)

I just got done reading all these replies. I will definatly take the meter apart again and check all those pins "just for the heck of it," cause it will be nice if that works out. But if not we'll have to figure something else out.

PK198105, no I don't have the tach in the combination meter, but I did install one aftermarket...I think that doesn't effect this process. And I do also see many empty solder points on the PCB...LED's, IC's and some other stuff.

Also, I didn't see the clutch switch wire hanging down under the dash, but I will search again just to make sure.

Anyway, I probably won't have any time to do this until saturday, so hang in there guys and I will keep checking in here everyday to see what's shakin'. I will post more pics on saturday with my results from the voltage tests. Thanks guys!

[CTScott]

Alright you guys, I'm home and I used my Cruise Control to and from work...it was GREAT! Definatly worth the trouble. But of course right now it's kind of a pain to always be wondering "Did I turn it on yet? Is it on or off right now? I sure wished this LED worked." :)

I just got done reading all these replies. I will definatly take the meter apart again and check all those pins "just for the heck of it," cause it will be nice if that works out. But if not we'll have to figure something else out.

PK198105, no I don't have the tach in the combination meter, but I did install one aftermarket...I think that doesn't effect this process. And I do also see many empty solder points on the PCB...LED's, IC's and some other stuff.

Also, I didn't see the clutch switch wire hanging down under the dash, but I will search again just to make sure.

Anyway, I probably won't have any time to do this until saturday, so hang in there guys and I will keep checking in here everyday to see what's shakin'. I will post more pics on saturday with my results from the voltage tests. Thanks guys!



Sounds good. I have a circuit design in my back pocket for making the LED work, without changing to a dual pole switch, in case we need it...

[nickhjort]

Nice.

[MGargano]

Any ideas on where I can find a steering column cover that already has the opening for the cruise stalk? My car's basically brand new and I don't wanna mess up the OEM cover if I can help it.

[MGargano]

try a scrap yard. you might get lucky and find one there if not there is always the dealership

Anybody know the part #?

[mikenacarato]

i thought the cruise came through the steering wheel, not the column cover?

[CTScott]

Cover, Steering Wheel Boss, Lower: 45184-52130-B0

This is for one that has factory cruise control, (and it is the plastic back of the wheel, not the column cover).