Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching and ground for - switching, so I guess I should put 1 to chasis.

Thanks for the clarification!

edit: Yeap, that worked. Thanks again for the clarification on the switching!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching, so I guess that is what I need to do.

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!

[Yarisduder]

Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarisduder

Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?

Ignition switched or constant?

[Yarisduder]

They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarisduder

They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."

OK - Tie both to the constant power point that I show on the under dash fuse panel. On the Yaris, everything that the remote starter is switching is low current. On some cars, the ignition switch directly switches the starter solenoid, so the remote starters have the high current feeds for that reason.

[Yarisduder]

I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarisduder

I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.

Can you snap a picture of the drivers side kick plate connectors? The service manual shows GD1 and GD2 as being flipped on the sedan vs. on the liftback.

[Yarisduder]

Here it is. Looks the same as in your manual.

kick.jpg

[CTScott]

OK - looks like a misprint in the service manual (and not the first that I've run into), as that bottom connector is definitely GD1.

Measure the voltage on the blue wire on the bottom row (next to the large orange) while locking/unlocking with your keyfob. If that wire's voltage doesn't change when the lock clicks, then you may have to use the large orange (lock motor power) or pink (unlock motor power) for your lock/unlock detection.

[Yarisduder]

I the blue wire drops 1/10 of a volt when I lock/unlock. The large pink and orange wires cause my remote starter to blink the park lights incessantly, are they a + or - pulse?

[Yarisduder]

Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarisduder

Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?

That's basically the same as the orange wire on the kick panel (except 4H-8 is the passenger door lock motor).

[CTScott]

By the way, take a read through page 2. Skylinecar1982 ran into some issues with the 1155 because of how the OEM remote entry works.

[Yarisduder]

I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarisduder

I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.

You might want to try disconnecting the white wire to the keyless entry receiver as I mentioned on the third page. He tried the red, but never responded about trying the white.

[miyaris]

Is it easy to install a Avital 4111L remote start to a 2007 with no alarm system, no power windows or doors? What would be a fair price for install? I'm a lady with no knowledge on this subject. TIA