Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching and ground for - switching, so I guess I should put 1 to chasis.

Thanks for the clarification!

edit: Yeap, that worked. Thanks again for the clarification on the switching!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching, so I guess that is what I need to do.

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!

Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.

Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39

Yeah, it said I would prob have to use a relay on the lights.

You are awesome! Thanks! Hopefully I can get these last few connections in tomorrow.

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39

4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help!