Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[Tanes70]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. The TVIP OEM Alarm has a 36 pin connector:

Attachment 31700


Pin 12 (white/light blue wire) goes to a starter cut relay, so you will need to follow that wire to the starter cut relay, and tap the Black Wire coming off of that relay with your start wire. On a non-alarm car that would be the black wires on the ignition switch connector.

Pin 9 (orange wire) is the ignition switch power input to the TVIP, so if it actually needs the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) connection, that's where it would be done.


The key sense wire is the yellow wire on the two pin connector that is near the face of the keyswitch.

Where is this connector located?

[jroy]

The wiring diagram I found said the "Key Sense" wire is yellow on the ignition harness but the only yellow wire is the +12V? There is another yellow wire coming off the side of the ignition but its on a different plug.

[jroy]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by jroy

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.

[CTScott]

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

[tchwue]

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tchwue

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

If you did, then ON and ACC would act the same when you turn the key.

[tchwue]

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tchwue

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

[tchwue]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

ok, thanks man...

[adam1981]

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching and ground for - switching, so I guess I should put 1 to chasis.

Thanks for the clarification!

edit: Yeap, that worked. Thanks again for the clarification on the switching!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching, so I guess that is what I need to do.

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?