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01-13-2011, 11:29 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Stock/Built Motor - Boost and Durability
As the title suggest this is where I hope to gather all the information for our motor with regards to boost and durability. I think this would provide useful information for members looking to boost the 1NZ.
We would state either stock or built motor, what type of forced induction, SC or turbo, psi, Whp, management, Fuel or ignition upgrades,miles driven while boosted, length of time driven on boost and driving style. Feel free to add any additional information. I will use myself as an example Engine: Stock F/I: Custom turbo kit T25 Boost: 6.5 psi WHP: N/A Management: None right now. Aem FIC being shipped. Fuel upgrade: 1zz injectors only. Miles on Boost: ~2k miles Length of time: 1 Month Driving style: Eh I rarely floor it maybe 3 times out of the week. ^^^That's just a sample it can be anyway you want to write it. Just some info so we can track what our little engines can put up with for how long. It is assumed that everything is in working order until you update your post stating any failures that may have occurred. Any and all ideas how we can make this thread better is welcomed Last edited by Yoda; 01-16-2011 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Changed boost level |
01-13-2011, 01:12 PM | #2 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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^ Just curious, unless someone has a failure to report, how does the information shed light on the subject of durability? We should just report stuff that breaks and when.
I'll play anyway, though. I included the grade of gas I use. Engine: Built (bore/sleeved/rods/pistons/springs/head work) F/I: Custom turbo kit T28 Boost: 14-24 WHP: 357 Management: AEM EMS Fuel upgrade: 632cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified Perrin rail, water/meth Fuel: Pump gas (91) Miles on Boost: ~2k miles Length of time: 6 months Driving style: I hammer it several times a week and race 1-2 times a month. MISC: rev limit 7300
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
01-13-2011, 01:31 PM | #3 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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This thread is entirely useless unless you know why the motor failed. Its nice to say say my stock motor blew up with 200hp but go into no detail as to why that happened. If my stock engine runs leans and seizes or burns a piston it wasn't the engines fault that it happened but say a bad injector or fuel pump or if I toss a rod from running to low on oil but happen to make 160 hp with a turbo its not the turbos fault I ran low on oil so a failure diagnosis is more important than yeah I upped the power and now its dead.
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01-13-2011, 01:44 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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01-13-2011, 03:57 PM | #5 | |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Quote:
Ive seen failure pictures of other users on this board and most of them are pretty easily traced to something else that isn't a direct result of the modification installed. I mean its simple if your house gets hit by an earthquake and burns down 2 days later it doesn't mean those 2 actions are related. Ive seen lots of examples of people modding theirs cars and doing no correct tuning to go with it and mix that with a very large community of "tooners" who don't know what their doing and a customer unable to tell the difference and you get inaccurate results. I'm not trying to rain on your parade because it would be nice to know I just have a hard time believing that anything useful will come of this thread. To use myself as an example my car has 75k of extremely hard driving but Ive had no failures to date on the car because there are things I know not to do. As long as you don't let the car run on empty, run on the rev limiter, or run it out of oil your engine should last as long as it was designed to. Running the car low on gas and driving hard introduces fuel starvation which makes the motor run lean which causes the pistons to get to hot or detonate and in tern either seize or throw a rod because it cant handle the stress being put on it. Running it on the rev limit causes the fuel system to cut out which can cause the cylinders to run lean and cause detonation. Oil is self explanatory run low and good by rod bearings. I mean low as in less than full not lower then the indicated line. |
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01-13-2011, 01:35 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
Your idea is also good but then we would have no one posting anytime soon I would hope that if something breaks further down the line that the poster would update his post. |
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01-13-2011, 07:02 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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The examples you gave are very poor. If you are not comportment enough to know that you need to change your oil then you should not even be driving. In addition the are warning lights for low oil, gas, and the sort. I never intended to use the miles as an idicator of failure. It's simple states how long before you had your first problem while boosted. You seem educated on F/I so you know what problems that can happen.
"Ive seen failure pictures of other users on this board and most of them are pretty easily traced to something else that isn't a direct result of the modification installed. " ^^ that's what you said. So if the problem can be traced to something else then why would blame the modification? You would then exclude that and not report it. This whole thread is mainly focused on the engine. There are only a few things that will ever go wrong with it if not modified or boosted. Toyota made this car pretty much stupid proof. "To use myself as an example my car has 75k of extremely hard driving but Ive had no failures to date on the car because there are things I know not to do. As long as you don't let the car run on empty, run on the rev limiter, or run it out of oil your engine should last as long as it was designed to. " ^^^ My question to this is are you boosted? You give people here little credit. Most members here if not all know what's good and bad for a F/I car. Example as if I were to update my post with my first failure Current miles while boosted: 8k Failure: dang my engine crapped out on me. Inpected it only to find metal shavings from the side wall. Not sure what happened gonna look into some more. Maybe a weak example but hope you get my point. So as a reader if I were to see this I would kno that I would have to look out for something like that possibly happening around that time and set in motions to prevent that. Let me remind you everything starts with data logging. How do we know that we need an oil change like every 3k miles, how do we kno that we need to change our timing belt at xmiles. People have tested and logged all this info. The same concept applies here. Sent from iPhone. |
01-13-2011, 07:34 PM | #8 |
Drives: Scion xA Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 449
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ohhhhhhhh man, I have to set aside some time but i will post up my motor failures .
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01-13-2011, 08:51 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Looking forward to your contribution
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01-14-2011, 01:36 AM | #10 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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I agree with Yoda ... people need info on this engine since we are boosting without knowing where is the limit.
I am sure not every yaris owner has the cash to build a complete engine (excluding XBG :) )... so if we assure these people that with a set of pistons and rods you are safe until X Boost on an X turbo revving above X RPM, damn that would made my life better from this moment! - Engine: Built (rods/pistons/) Complete Stock Head including bolts and springs -F/I: Custom turbo kit T28 -Boost: 9psi till now -WHP: Need to dyno before -Management: Haltech Pro Sport 1000 -Fuel upgrade: 630cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified custom rail, upgraded fuel regulator -Fuel: Pump gas (91) Miles on Boost: ~1k miles Length of time: 2 years ( driven occassionally ) Driving style: Today I occasionally push it because I am still tuning on it MISC: rev limit 5500 till now Wait we forgot ignition! -Ignition : 4 LS2 Dedicated Haltech Truck Coils with Silkolene HighTension Leads / Denso Iridium IK22 Spark Plugs (Step colder) My main fears are the valve springs and head bolts. I am risking much on this ... I really need assurance I am safe until Xboost - XRpm |
01-14-2011, 10:52 AM | #11 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Custom turbo kit T28 -Boost: 5-6psi -WHP: 155 (@ 4psi) -Management: AEM FIC -Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ injectors -Fuel: 93 Miles on Boost: +/-10000 miles Length of time: +/- 1 years Driving style: Drive it everyday to & from work, avg -/+400 miles a week |
01-14-2011, 10:58 AM | #12 |
-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Zage turbo kit -Boost: 8 psi -WHP: 175 -Management: Greddy Emanage Ultimate -Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ injectors, Water/Meth -Fuel: 92 Miles on Boost: +/- 500 miles Length of time: 2 months Driving style: Only drive it on weekends, if that. I go WOT at least 3x when I drive it. * I am throwing a CEL that is saying my 2nd o2 sensor isn't reading correctly. EDIT: Forgot to mention, before the current turbo setup, I have been running the Blitz Supercharger for around a year. Not sure how many miles I did while having it, but it had to have been over a couple thousand. I was running 8 PSI with that too, at 140whp (same dyno that I dynod the zage kit on). Last edited by PETERPOOP; 01-17-2011 at 10:28 PM. |
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01-15-2011, 08:51 PM | #13 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Engine: Stock
F/I: Zage Kit Boost: 7 psi WHP: N/A Management: AEM FIC - open loop tuning Fuel upgrade: None. Meth soon. Fuel: 93 octane Miles on Boost: 4k miles Length of time: 4 months Driving style: Never go WOT or even exceed 4k RPMs during daily driving. Currently have no issues to really report, although I suspect I have a boost leak still. But that only limits max performance, the car drives great otherwise. |
01-17-2011, 01:26 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, Canada
Posts: 259
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Engine: Stock
F/I: Greddy s/c kit Boost: 8.5 PSI WHP: 133 Management: E-manage Blue Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ Injectors Fuel: Pump gas (94) Miles on Boost: 25,000 miles Length of time: 2 years Driving style: I hammer it several times a week and race 2-4 times a year
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05' Echo Hatch - Greddy Supercharger - rear disc Last edited by johnny_vitz; 04-08-2012 at 09:27 PM. Reason: added |
01-17-2011, 10:06 PM | #15 |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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engine: stock
induction: custom T25 w/intercooler Boost: 8 psi injectors: stock piggy back: AEM FIC open loop tuning Fuel pump: stock 93octane WHP: ? 5 months boosted about 6K miles I drive it like I stole it. Floored several times a day. |
01-17-2011, 10:17 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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^^^^lol pimp. Whats even sweeter is that it starts to spool for me at 1700rpm......
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01-19-2011, 12:06 PM | #17 |
Onyx Edition
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-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Zage turbo kit -Boost: 4psi (break-in baseline tune) -WHP: ~125-130 -Management: Greddy Emanage Ultimate -Fuel upgrade: 2AZ injectors -Fuel: 91 V-POWAAAA Miles on Boost: <1k Length of time: 1 month Driving style: daily driven, try to keep it under 4k rpm for the rest of the break in period * I am throwing a CEL that is saying my 1st o2 sensor is running lean AND rich, that will most likely change when i go performance tune |
01-19-2011, 12:42 PM | #18 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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Thanks for the persons who posted a clean answer and of course for participating
Cheers and lets keep the little one boosted :) |
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