Install a backup camera on a yaris 2010? - Toyota Yaris Forums

aplaceinthesky · 03-08-2016, 12:08 PM

Hello,can anyone point me to a good install guide for a backup camera on a toyota yaris or gives me some advice ?
Does anyone can explain me the cable for the rear lights ?
Thank you

Exiwolfman · 03-08-2016, 02:47 PM

Why ?

aplaceinthesky · 03-08-2016, 03:02 PM

what you mean why ?
why my first post was deleted ?

Exiwolfman · 03-08-2016, 09:08 PM

Why a back up camera on a small car like Yaris.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

kevinj93 · 03-08-2016, 11:12 PM

I installed a backup camera on my 2012 delivered hatchback because my wife was used to one on the previous vehicle, and insisted she wanted it for use in the supermarket car park.

Bought the camera and screen from eBay. It took about an hour and a half to install taking my time to run the wiring.

weevil · 03-28-2016, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exiwolfman

Why a back up camera on a small car like Yaris.

Spoken like someone without small children.

Exiwolfman · 03-28-2016, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weevil

Spoken like someone without small children.

Yup no kids

weevil · 03-29-2016, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exiwolfman

Yup no kids

They change your perspective on all sorts of things.

aplaceinthesky · 03-09-2016, 02:37 AM

@Exiwolfman I live in Rome, you don't know how much difficult is the parking here, and I just want to be sure I don't hit anything its just a safe mesure. If you or someone else can help I will be very gratefull

@Kavinj93: Can you help me ?

kevinj93 · 03-09-2016, 03:19 AM

I'm not sure what model Yaris you have.. I have a 5 door series 3 hatchback. On this, there is a plastic filler that fits in the rear hatch where the factory camera would fit. The interior lining om the hatch is held in by plastic clips. Just start at a corner and pull the lining away from the door, working from clip to clip..Nearly every panel removes the same way.

I drilled a hole in the camera place panel to run the camera wire through. Afterwards, this need to be sealed. I used a non hardening "coax seal" to seal this.

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. From there to the side of the roof and split the wiring to get switched power and earth at the reversing light, and down to the floor for the video feed cable. The kick plates at the bottom of the door frames pull out to reveal a wiring channel. You can run the camera wiring through this to the front of the cabin..

The camera I bought came with a mirror / screen that clips over the original rear view mirror. This needed 12 volt power, switched 12 volts to activate when reverse is selected, ground and the video feedd from the camera. I ran a wire from the reversing light to feed the screen, and fed this to both of the power inputs to the screen. All wire joins were soldered and insulated. I felt the easiest place to get groung and switched 12 volt power was across one of the reversing ligyt globes the power requirements for the screen and camera are quite low.

The instruction that came with the camera and screen recommended only having one power pickup point for the system to avoid earth loops which cn degrade the video quality.

If you want to avoid running so much wiring, there are wireless cqmera kits available, but you still ned to get poeer for the screen and camera.

weevil · 03-28-2016, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinj93

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof.

Yeah threading it through the hatch looks super, super difficult. The path is crescent shaped and ends in a thin rubber tube housing the factory wiring. Looks like it will be the most frustrating exercise in the world, not looking forward to it.

I’ve looked around but can’t find any info on accessing ceiling once/if I make it that far with the cable. Any tips on how to do this?

kevinj93 · 03-28-2016, 11:14 PM

The roof lining (on my series 3) has one clip that needs to be popped out.

The cover on the rear side pillar can be popped off fairly easily like most other internal panels. you only need a big enough gap to get your hand inside the lining.

Use an old wire coat hanger straightened out, or a flexible plastic rod to go around the back window. Once you have fed it through, you can attach the cable from the camera to the end and draw it through.

it's best to remove the flexible rubber tube from the hatch, rather than the body when running through into the roof lining. poke the draw wire or rod back through the tube to pull the camera cable through into the roof. you can then easily get to the side and run down to the rear light assembly for power from the reversing light.

the plastic pieces along the bottom of the door frames holding the edges of the carpet lift off to give access to a wiring channel. you can use these to get the cable to the dashboard.

weevil · 03-29-2016, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinj93

The roof lining (on my series 3) has one clip that needs to be popped out.

The cover on the rear side pillar can be popped off fairly easily like most other internal panels. you only need a big enough gap to get your hand inside the lining.

Use an old wire coat hanger straightened out, or a flexible plastic rod to go around the back window. Once you have fed it through, you can attach the cable from the camera to the end and draw it through.

it's best to remove the flexible rubber tube from the hatch, rather than the body when running through into the roof lining. poke the draw wire or rod back through the tube to pull the camera cable through into the roof. you can then easily get to the side and run down to the rear light assembly for power from the reversing light.

the plastic pieces along the bottom of the door frames holding the edges of the carpet lift off to give access to a wiring channel. you can use these to get the cable to the dashboard.

Ah, after poking around the car a little that is all starting to make some sense now, thanks very much.

Is the roof lining clip at the rear near the middle? Worried about yanking it too hard and ripping the lining.

Also unsure about the rear light assembly and getting power from the reversing light (understand the concept just not sure where the assembly is and what plugs into what).

Never done anything like this in a car before. My camera hasn’t actually arrived yet, hoping it will have some doco that will help colour in the wiring picture a little.

weevil · 04-01-2016, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinj93

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof.

Holy smokes you are not kidding. I've hit a complete brick wall at this point. Can't even get the coat hanger by itself more than about 30cm into the rear door. No amount of jiggling, poking or shoving will get it the slightest bit further.

Super, super frustrating.

kevinj93 · 04-01-2016, 08:28 PM

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.

weevil · 04-04-2016, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinj93

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.

Phew, that was an epic. Thanks very much for your help, made all the difference.

Was using a dry cleaner’s coat hanger, but the manual says to do it from the bottom. From the top is certainly the way to go. Def not dead straight, it takes a bit of a dogleg in near the start and need to bend the hanger a little, that is the key. Once you get past that the rest is easier.

For the grommet at the top I found a YouTube video with some good advice. Pushed a long cable tie through first. Has just the right flexibility and strength to get through. Gaffer taped the wires to it and put a little liquid soap on the gaffer tape. The soap really helped the wires slide through a lot easier. Put some gaff around the RCA plug at the end with a little soap and a bit of ‘gentle’ persuasion I could ‘milk’ the plug all the way down the grommet.

Can only do a little bit each day so still a way to go, but making really good progress now. That should be the hard part.

Exiwolfman · 03-09-2016, 01:14 PM

http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_1...ANoaAjtd8P8HAQ

you need something like this , go to link .

jcboy · 03-18-2016, 06:42 PM

an aftermarket "OEM" reverse cam will have usually have 3 wires to connect:
1. red for +12V of reverse lights (or +12V constant supply)
2. black for GND of reverse lights
3. RCA cable that will run all the way to the front
4. (sometimes) a red wire that runs to the front (that is shorted to #1) that connects to the reverse wire from the headunit ("signals" that you are in reverse)

if you connect #1 to constat +12V, meaning you can view cam even when not in reverse (Pioneer HUs), you shouldnt use #4; you have to get the reverse signal from the underdash fusebox to connect to HU wire.

hope this helps.

03-08-2016, 11:12 PM	#5
kevinj93 Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 386	I installed a backup camera on my 2012 delivered hatchback because my wife was used to one on the previous vehicle, and insisted she wanted it for use in the supermarket car park. Bought the camera and screen from eBay. It took about an hour and a half to install taking my time to run the wiring. __________________ Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam.

03-09-2016, 03:19 AM	#10
kevinj93 Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 386	I'm not sure what model Yaris you have.. I have a 5 door series 3 hatchback. On this, there is a plastic filler that fits in the rear hatch where the factory camera would fit. The interior lining om the hatch is held in by plastic clips. Just start at a corner and pull the lining away from the door, working from clip to clip..Nearly every panel removes the same way. I drilled a hole in the camera place panel to run the camera wire through. Afterwards, this need to be sealed. I used a non hardening "coax seal" to seal this. The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. From there to the side of the roof and split the wiring to get switched power and earth at the reversing light, and down to the floor for the video feed cable. The kick plates at the bottom of the door frames pull out to reveal a wiring channel. You can run the camera wiring through this to the front of the cabin.. The camera I bought came with a mirror / screen that clips over the original rear view mirror. This needed 12 volt power, switched 12 volts to activate when reverse is selected, ground and the video feedd from the camera. I ran a wire from the reversing light to feed the screen, and fed this to both of the power inputs to the screen. All wire joins were soldered and insulated. I felt the easiest place to get groung and switched 12 volt power was across one of the reversing ligyt globes the power requirements for the screen and camera are quite low. The instruction that came with the camera and screen recommended only having one power pickup point for the system to avoid earth loops which cn degrade the video quality. If you want to avoid running so much wiring, there are wireless cqmera kits available, but you still ned to get poeer for the screen and camera. __________________ Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam. Last edited by kevinj93; 03-09-2016 at 03:48 AM.

03-28-2016, 11:14 PM	#12
kevinj93 Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 386	The roof lining (on my series 3) has one clip that needs to be popped out. The cover on the rear side pillar can be popped off fairly easily like most other internal panels. you only need a big enough gap to get your hand inside the lining. Use an old wire coat hanger straightened out, or a flexible plastic rod to go around the back window. Once you have fed it through, you can attach the cable from the camera to the end and draw it through. it's best to remove the flexible rubber tube from the hatch, rather than the body when running through into the roof lining. poke the draw wire or rod back through the tube to pull the camera cable through into the roof. you can then easily get to the side and run down to the rear light assembly for power from the reversing light. the plastic pieces along the bottom of the door frames holding the edges of the carpet lift off to give access to a wiring channel. you can use these to get the cable to the dashboard. __________________ Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam.

04-01-2016, 08:28 PM	#15
kevinj93 Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 386	Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade. Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through. When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place. Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction. __________________ Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam. Last edited by kevinj93; 04-01-2016 at 08:44 PM.

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03-08-2016, 12:08 PM	#1
aplaceinthesky Drives: yaris Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Italy Posts: 6	Install a backup camera on a yaris 2010? Hello,can anyone point me to a good install guide for a backup camera on a toyota yaris or gives me some advice ? Does anyone can explain me the cable for the rear lights ? Thank you Last edited by aplaceinthesky; 03-08-2016 at 01:13 PM.

03-08-2016, 02:47 PM	#2
Exiwolfman View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Wasaga beach Posts: 1,617	Why ?

03-08-2016, 03:02 PM	#3
aplaceinthesky Drives: yaris Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Italy Posts: 6	what you mean why ? why my first post was deleted ?

03-08-2016, 09:08 PM	#4
Exiwolfman View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Wasaga beach Posts: 1,617	Why a back up camera on a small car like Yaris. Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

03-09-2016, 02:37 AM	#9
aplaceinthesky Drives: yaris Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Italy Posts: 6	@Exiwolfman I live in Rome, you don't know how much difficult is the parking here, and I just want to be sure I don't hit anything its just a safe mesure. If you or someone else can help I will be very gratefull @Kavinj93: Can you help me ?

03-09-2016, 01:14 PM	#17
Exiwolfman View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Wasaga beach Posts: 1,617	http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_1...ANoaAjtd8P8HAQ you need something like this , go to link .

03-18-2016, 06:42 PM	#18
jcboy Drives: Sedan 07 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Asia Posts: 478	an aftermarket "OEM" reverse cam will have usually have 3 wires to connect: 1. red for +12V of reverse lights (or +12V constant supply) 2. black for GND of reverse lights 3. RCA cable that will run all the way to the front 4. (sometimes) a red wire that runs to the front (that is shorted to #1) that connects to the reverse wire from the headunit ("signals" that you are in reverse) if you connect #1 to constat +12V, meaning you can view cam even when not in reverse (Pioneer HUs), you shouldnt use #4; you have to get the reverse signal from the underdash fusebox to connect to HU wire. hope this helps.