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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 386
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Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.
Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through. When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place. Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.
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Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam. Last edited by kevinj93; 04-01-2016 at 08:44 PM. |
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#2 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 Yaris YRS Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Was using a dry cleaner’s coat hanger, but the manual says to do it from the bottom. From the top is certainly the way to go. Def not dead straight, it takes a bit of a dogleg in near the start and need to bend the hanger a little, that is the key. Once you get past that the rest is easier. For the grommet at the top I found a YouTube video with some good advice. Pushed a long cable tie through first. Has just the right flexibility and strength to get through. Gaffer taped the wires to it and put a little liquid soap on the gaffer tape. The soap really helped the wires slide through a lot easier. Put some gaff around the RCA plug at the end with a little soap and a bit of ‘gentle’ persuasion I could ‘milk’ the plug all the way down the grommet. Can only do a little bit each day so still a way to go, but making really good progress now. That should be the hard part. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 NCP130 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 386
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Glad you got it through.
It's mostly pull off panels from there on, or just tuck the cable under the edges of the trim while keeping clear of the airbags.
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Running on standard AU 14" steel wheels (14x5 rims, 175/70R14 tyres). Added reversing camera and touch screen radio, cruise control, 16" rear wiper blade, tow bar and dash cam. |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Yaris YRS Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 18
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...I didn’t actually get through it. Been pretty much a nightmare. Running the rest of the cable was okay, tapping the break light was nearly impossible, 3 different taps all failed to work. Ended up taking it to an auto electrician who agreed it was a particularly fiddley and annoying job, took him well over an hour simply to connect the two wires.
Then once finally got power to the camera discovered my OEM head unit is wired strangely and have had to send the adaptor harness back to be replaced. Saw the camera display in an external monitor for about 10 seconds, after all this time that is as close as I’ve gotten. |
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#5 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 Yaris YRS Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 18
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Quote:
This is an epic. |
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