Installed the 1zz throttle body -

[mikenacarato]

i didnt use any gasket maker.

[AlexNet0]

hmm, guess Ill just try it and find out then, haha

[jkuchta]

I used gasket maker, and everything is fine.


The coolant has nothing to do with the rpm ocillations or CEL's, and besides, the way the lines are run there is almost no way for air to be trapped in the TB.

[tk-421]

I think I may have a problem.

It looks like the idle screw hole (where the allen wrench goes) is very worn, and now I can't seem to be able to adjust it! Anybody have a nice trick to fix this?

BTW the one-bigger wrench doesn't fit.

[yarstar]

I could never get mine to turn. I got all the epoxy off but still couldn't turn the screw. Eventually, I stripped it. I gave up thinking I could adjust the idle down anyway. Did anyone else on here ever get their idle screw turning and adjust down the cold idle?

[jkuchta]

I adjusted the scew, but it won't help the high cold idle.

Thats caused by the car running on a preset warmup map with a predetermined throttle setting, which is not adjustable in real time by the ECU. Until the car is warmed up, the ECU is in Closed loop (I think thats the one), which means the ECU is not responding to rpm or throttle position or O2.

One way to get that screw loose would be to hit it with a small torch for a few seconds to burn off the epoxy. Hold the TB with a few damp rags to keep from burning yourself or overheating the TB itself.

Someone also suggested that you can freeze off the epoxy.

[m911gt]

i removed the epoxy with a dental pick and a little patience. i just kept picking away at it and used compressed air to blow the debris away...but turning it doesn't adjust the idle at all ? ?

one way you could still adjust the screw if it is stripped would be to put super glue on the end of the allen key and actually super glue it into the screw. i know it sounds kind of stupid, but it should work. after you have adjusted the screw/idle to your liking (if it will adjust anything), just use a bit of extra force and free the glued key.

[severous01]

dont know if it's been mentioned but here ya go...for OBD2 cars any way

when u replace the IAC motor or throttle body you MUST re-learn the iac.

here's how:
1 remove batt neg and hit brakes, turn on lights, and do whatever you think you can to drain capacitive discharge

2 reconnect battery

3 start car

4 wait 10 minutes

5 shut car off

6 wait till cool

7 start over from 3 n go to 5

you should be fine after that.



also, you may have what's called 'tip in hesitation' with a larger than needed throttle. it's when there's more air getting to the cylinders than what's needed. is it bad? eh...i dont like hesitation in my throttle and would rather smooth bore the stocker, maybe polish it. on my camaro i installed a 58mm dual bore throttle. all i had for performance was exhaust (did with TB) and intake...so when i hit the throttle it would pause for about a half a second then seriously kick u in the seat...any way. put the stocker on and it pulled just as hard with no hesitation...

take it for what you will, but if you're getting hesitation ur getting too much air. get bigger injectors or more power n you'll need the throttle.

[severous01]

also, another good 'free mod' would be to bypass the coolant in the throttle body.

nets about 5hp in a v8 camaro, and about 4 in a v6. if you're doing a cai and all this stuff....why you gonna heat up that cold air to about 215*????

any way, just pull the coolant inlets and get a vacuum hose connector or some nickel plated pipe with hose connectors. butt teh two coolant l ines together and dont worry about the TB temps any more...

oh, by the way, if you live in a really cold area dont do this mod. the coolant heats up the air temp and allows smoother running engine for cold weather.

[m911gt]

I'm about to post up my 1zz tb for sale. If anyone's interested, please PM me. I cleaned the valve and cylinder and drilled the rivets out so the 1zz tb + 1zz chip + all hardware will be $65 shipped in the US.

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by yarstar

Somehow the post got removed.

T-sport stated that you take your OEM TB, lay it next to the 1zz TB on the engine, unplug the 1zz and then plug the harness into the OEM TB, turn the car to 'on' but don't crank. Leave it for a few minutes, turn car off, re-plug the 1zz TB.

This, he says, will 'trick' the ECU to thinking the OEM have been reinstalled and fix the CEL. I haven't tried this yet, but it does sound smart.

Anyone have any success with this?

[AlainMikli]

I wonder how the stock(1nz) intake tube can bolt onto 1zz TB since the 1zz has bigger outer diameter.

[tk-421]

Originally Posted by AlainMikli

I wonder how the stock(1nz) intake tube can bolt onto 1zz TB since the 1zz has bigger outer diameter.

It can, but you need to increase the inner tube diameter a little. I used a dremel with a filing bit and it came out great.

[AlexNet0]

Originally Posted by MGargano

Anyone have any success with this?

Not that I know of, swapping the TB chips is what is helping other people

[jkuchta]

Originally Posted by AlexNet0

Not that I know of, swapping the TB chips is what is helping other people

Yes...this swap works!

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=78

[white_rice]

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but I did a search for a CEL code and it brought up this thread.

Purchased a 1zz throttle body off a member here about a month ago. This is the one here, which is the correct one to use as per the forums:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51570

So anyways took the car to my mechanic friends shop tonight to do the install. Firs thing we did was disconnect the battery. Removed the existing throttle body.

Quickly realized that the rubber coupler from my K&N Typhoon short ram intake would not fit over the new larger diameter of the 1zz TB. Luckily he had an OEM air box and tubing from a Civic in his shop. Fit perfectly over the 1zz so we cut that down to size and had our new coupler.

Also then realized that the O-ring seal was too small and wouldn't make a proper seal. He had some gasket maker (Permatex Ultra Black) on hand so we put a nice thick coat of that on the throttle body to ensure no air leaks.

Had to put on some different hose clamps as well for the new thicker coupler as existing ones were too small now.

Put everything back together. Re-connected the battery. First turn of the key it did not fire. Very sluggish. Tried again and it fired up but with a very high, fluctuating idle. Let it sit and run and after about 60 seconds or so, idle began to drop and drop until it eventually got to where it should be. We let the car run at idle for 10 minutes before shutting off engine.

He then used a stethoscope to ensure no vacuum leaks as he was concerned about the high revving upon starting. No leaks detected.

We then took it for a test drive down the road. Felt very nice. Definitely more responsive.

It wasn't until we got back to his shop 5 minutes later that we realized we now had a CEL. He used his Scanguage and read the code. Not 100% sure of code but from researching on forum, it must have been P0505. As the code error read as 'Idle Control System Malfunction'.

Cleared the code, and re-started the car and it went away. Shut off and on and again and code did not come back. Figured it just had come on due to the very high revving on initial start.

It wasn't until about 15 minutes after I was driving home that the CEL popped back on again!

On that note -- thats why I'm posting asking for advice. I did some reading. 2 things that have come to my attention are breaking up the epoxy on that allan key idle screw and adjusting. I also read about swapping some sensor or chip. I'm confused as to what chip exactly. One from the existing OEM TB and onto the new 1zz TB? Do you believe that either of these 2 might be the issue, throwing me a CEL? Also, never did this colont bypass people are talking about either, as I live in a cold climate (Southern Ontario, Canada).

Please give any advice to help me rid of the CEL.

------

So I've spent the last 2+ hours reading through more threads. It appears that nobody knows the 'definite' cause for this CEL, however it is sometime remedied by either adjusting that idle screw, or swapping the sensors from the one on the OEM TB. We can attempt these when I had back to my mechanics. My only other concern is that we did drive the car not too long after we installed the gasket sealer. Hoping that isn't an issue with it getting sucked into the intake manifold. He did say its a very fast drying sealer. I'm pretty convinced it might be that idle screw needing adjusting. Will have to post progress. Not heading back there for a couple weeks though so have patience. :)

[tk-421]

I did the chip swap by keeping the OEM chip and ditching the 1ZZ chip. Took 5 minutes to remove the rivets using a drill with a small bit and another 5 minutes to screw everything back up. Have yet to encounter a CEL due to this.

[white_rice]

Originally Posted by tk-421

I did the chip swap by keeping the OEM chip and ditching the 1ZZ chip. Took 5 minutes to remove the rivets using a drill with a small bit and another 5 minutes to screw everything back up. Have yet to encounter a CEL due to this.

Thank you. So you just swapped the chip, but didn't touch that idle screw at all?