Need some price advice...

[ern-diz]

Originally Posted by xed

Here's the quote I got (keep in mind that I'm in NC which is part of SET so the prices are higher).

2008 Liftback, MT, no options at all (no floor mats, no radio, nothing)

car: $11,733.50
doc fee: $389.00

total: $12,122.50

(this is the price without tax and tag/title, so it's OTD without ttl figured in)

So is this good or bad? I did my own calc based on a few spreadsheets and this came in at $200 over my target price whitch to me wasn't enough to quibble about since it's a new model year that's just hitting the floors.

thoughts?

gotta say it sounds ok to me...there will be a gap insurance, extended warranty and possibly alarm (sometimes preinstalled on all cars on the lot to help the dealership save on insurance costs) to consider purchasing, which can bring the total cost up (in addition to finance charges) however, that base sounds ok...i got my '07 in august with only the california convenience package and paid 12,500 before the after market power windows/door locks and the above mentioned insurance/warranty/alarm...i'd worry more about the interest rate cause that price sounds ok to me...

[xed]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

gotta say it sounds ok to me...there will be a gap insurance, extended warranty and possibly alarm (sometimes preinstalled on all cars on the lot to help the dealership save on insurance costs) to consider purchasing, which can bring the total cost up (in addition to finance charges) however, that base sounds ok...i got my '07 in august with only the california convenience package and paid 12,500 before the after market power windows/door locks and the above mentioned insurance/warranty/alarm...i'd worry more about the interest rate cause that price sounds ok to me...

I just set up a blank check loan with Capital One Auto Finance so no gap is being forced on me unless I wanted it. No alarm or anything like that either. I have a FICO of over 800 so I got the lowest rate Capital One Auto has at the moment for a 60 month which is 6.35%. I figure if Toyota financing can beat 6.35% then I'll go with them; otherwise I'll just use Capital One.

[ern-diz]

Originally Posted by xed

I just set up a blank check loan with Capital One Auto Finance so no gap is being forced on me unless I wanted it. No alarm or anything like that either. I have a FICO of over 800 so I got the lowest rate Capital One Auto has at the moment for a 60 month which is 6.35%. I figure if Toyota financing can beat 6.35% then I'll go with them; otherwise I'll just use Capital One.

you are in an excellent position then...i would however recommend that you read the following thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9050

before considering passing on the gap...just so you have both perspectives on that option...

[xed]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

you are in an excellent position then...i would however recommend that you read the following thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9050

before considering passing on the gap...just so you have both perspectives on that option...

Thanks for the link to that thread. I read through it and it really does bring home the point of having gap insurance.

Depending on what the dealership offers me for my trade-in I'll be putting down between 0% - 12.5% of the purchase value which means at the time of purchase, having gap is the right choice. Either way I'll have paid off more than 20% of the car's value before the end of this year so the time frame for having gap coverage would be through the end of the year.

I think I'll go ahead and pay for gap and then just cancel it at the end of the year and get refunded the prorated difference. That way I'm covered just in case something happened (hence the term "accident").