DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 14 - Toyota Yaris Forums

jkuchta · 05-21-2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

thx it wasnt too hard so i didnt need the diy. Didnt do the chip swap gonna see what other means there are to eliminate the cel if i get any.

If you adjust the idle set screw you might be ok.

AlexNet0 · 05-21-2009, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

thx it wasnt too hard so i didnt need the diy. Didnt do the chip swap gonna see what other means there are to eliminate the cel if i get any.

Did you get the oscillation? thats what the chip swap was originally indended to fix

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

If you adjust the idle set screw you might be ok.

adjust it to were? sry total noob at this. dont even kno where the darn thing is

marcus · 05-21-2009, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

adjust it to were? sry total noob at this. dont even kno where the darn thing is

ok sorry its this one like he said.

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus

there

clockwise? anticlockwise? how much of a turn?
o and is it an actual screw cause there is none...

*tk-421* · 05-21-2009, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus

there

That's not the idle screw. It's this one (covered in epoxy here):

You'll need a small allen wrench to turn it BTW. As far as CW/CCW, I can't remember... I believe I ended up turning it CW almost all the way.

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tk-421

That's not the idle screw. It's this one (covered in epoxy here):

You'll need a small allen wrench to turn it BTW. As far as CW/CCW, I can't remember... I believe I ended up turning it CW almost all the way.

ok kwel i will try it as is now then adjust later the rain lifted up sp let me finish installing it. It was hard as heck to get the afe coupler over the TB had to shave some off.

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 06:41 PM

so yea i installed it right. i was doing the whole coolant overflow thing and well it didnt. I waited for like 5 min and no overflow so i was like ok. No oscillation just high cold and when its warm it setlles at a high of 1100rpm and a CEL

Againg i said ok. Before i went to disconnect the battery i tried stepping on the throttle. This event was followed bu very very very slow climb in rpm. Again ok... So i floored it

Not a good idea didnt make a diff at all the car started shaking and i quickly turned it off. So yea the battery is disconnected and i will wait a ahwile before i see wat is up. Any ideas lol?

*tk-421* · 05-21-2009, 06:58 PM

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.

Yoda · 05-21-2009, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tk-421

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.

yea but something is up with the throttle. i gonna try it again once it resets. I think i might have to turn the screw until the idle get down to normal. Little small turns lol.
I hope i didnt get a defective one.

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 02:23 AM

Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 08:35 AM

well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 11:03 AM

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

marcus · 05-22-2009, 11:06 AM

get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 01:10 PM

If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 02:19 PM

ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm.....
Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out.

O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 03:07 PM

drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 03:14 PM

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape.

The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance.

05-21-2009, 06:58 PM	#243
tk-421 Super Moderator View User's Garage Drives: 5D-07-LB Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dagobah Posts: 4,262	The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling. The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't. __________________ --[ FORUM RULES ]--[ SEARCHING TIPS ]--[ EYELIDS PICS ]--[ RBK SPOILER ]--[ BEST/WORST INVESTMENTS ]--

05-22-2009, 03:14 PM	#252
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold. Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)? Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape. The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-22-2009 at 03:30 PM.

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05-21-2009, 06:41 PM	#242
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	so yea i installed it right. i was doing the whole coolant overflow thing and well it didnt. I waited for like 5 min and no overflow so i was like ok. No oscillation just high cold and when its warm it setlles at a high of 1100rpm and a CEL Againg i said ok. Before i went to disconnect the battery i tried stepping on the throttle. This event was followed bu very very very slow climb in rpm. Again ok... So i floored it Not a good idea didnt make a diff at all the car started shaking and i quickly turned it off. So yea the battery is disconnected and i will wait a ahwile before i see wat is up. Any ideas lol?

05-22-2009, 02:23 AM	#245
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.

05-22-2009, 08:35 AM	#246
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.

05-22-2009, 11:03 AM	#247
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

05-22-2009, 11:06 AM	#248
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

05-22-2009, 01:10 PM	#249
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

05-22-2009, 02:19 PM	#250
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm..... Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out. O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

05-22-2009, 03:07 PM	#251
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm