Crashy Lives

[Sodium Duck]

http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...0070926x00003a

Wonder if you could hack that up and weld the frame into the rear. 80 bucks, but only like 20"X40"X10". Unless you want hydraulics (which you should lol).

[auxmike]

I Crashy.....

[tomato]

Originally Posted by auxmike

I Crashy.....

+1

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Sodium Duck

http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...0070926x00003a

Wonder if you could hack that up and weld the frame into the rear. 80 bucks, but only like 20"X40"X10". Unless you want hydraulics (which you should lol).

It's the right idea, but I would like it to be as big as possible. 40" x 60" would fit between the wheel wells and from behind the front seats to the rear bumper. Plastic would be a big plus for keeping the weight down.

Definitely need hydraulic dumping, even if it is manually pumped (i.e. $20 bottle jack).

[Sodium Duck]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It's the right idea, but I would like it to be as big as possible. 40" x 60" would fit between the wheel wells and from behind the front seats to the rear bumper. Plastic would be a big plus for keeping the weight down.

Definitely need hydraulic dumping, even if it is manually pumped (i.e. $20 bottle jack).

...so goodbye roof? Or would it not need to be raised that high?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Sodium Duck

...so goodbye roof? Or would it not need to be raised that high?

Roof's definitely getting clipped off. The outer pipes of the roll cage will follow the original lines from the bottom of the A pillars to the bottom of the C pillars. Cross pipes will go across the top of the non-existent windshield and in place of the B pillars. I want to keep the shape of the Yaris, but if I leave off the rear cross at the top of the hatch, I'll have plenty of clearance for the dump bed to lift.

I figure I can put a bimini top between the windshield bar and the B pillar bar to keep me dry if I'm plowing while it's raining or snowing.