Drove a Turbo Yaris

[Nexus1155]

Yes, ideally you want piping with the least turbulent bends in it, but you also want to minimize length of piping as well.

I have this one kid i know that has his piping wrapped around everything and in front of his intercooler. Check this out I am sure you'll lawl.

[cali yaris]

oh wow that is extreme, thanks for showing that.

[advocate]

I agree that cdydjded's kit could be better looking but you can't argue performance. Better piping = spool faster = better overall kit.

I would worry more about the fact that we're crazy enough to boost an econo box before worrying about what cdydjded's kit will look like when the hood is popped =)

[Jerkratt]

+1

[Nexus1155]

LOL np, I like the kid, but its like were two different people. There are ricers and then there are wrenchers and he argues that his piping is more efficient and produces more power everytime.

Hahah also theres a kid on my forums, that stresses backpurging of welds when he was making manifolds and downpipes, that it will severely make his kit a better overall kit.

Honestly, as long as it is a nice functional well thought out kit, you can just powdercoat crap yourself later....

[lilredrocket]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Honestly, as long as it is a nice functional well thought out kit, you can just powdercoat crap yourself later....

Exactly!! A little splash of color goes a long way or if your into the look you could polish the piping.

[coheed]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

My kit will be complete. Turbo, manifold, downpipe, all nuts, bolts, gaskets needed, I/C with piping, hose & t bolt clamps, injectors, everything! No cutting will be necessary, only drilling & a small amount of grinding. The only parts I do not include in my kit are:
Exhaust
Gauges
AEM FIC or eManage

But I can add those above items or any others as an option.....

Well I'm wanting to do 10psi daily and bump it up for track days. Things I'm concerned about are:

1. Will I need to sleeve the block if going to 15psi on the track maybe once every 2 months (if that)?
2. Will the injectors you supply be enough for 10psi everyday?
3. Will I have to upgrade coils at that boost level?

According to zage's website they got 190bhp at .5 bar (7ish psi), so I was wanting to shoot for a lil over 200 at 10psi daily. And you've probably posted this but I'm to lazy to search for it right now, what turbo and trim would this be using? I was thinking t28 or gt28 with 54-64 trim level, in that range.

The only reason I posted this in this thread is someone may want this info in the future and maybe other people have input on my questions.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by coheed

Well I'm wanting to do 10psi daily and bump it up for track days. On a stock motor with stock rods & pistons i would not suggest to run more than 8lbs maxThings I'm concerned about are:

1. Will I need to sleeve the block if going to 15psi on the track maybe once every 2 months (if that)? The factory sleeves are not the problem, the issue is the factory pistons & rods
2. Will the injectors you supply be enough for 10psi everyday? Apply above answers
3. Will I have to upgrade coils at that boost level? No

According to zage's website they got 190bhp at .5 bar (7ish psi), so I was wanting to shoot for a lil over 200 at 10psi daily. And you've probably posted this but I'm to lazy to search for it right now, what turbo and trim would this be using? I was thinking t28 or gt28 with 54-64 trim level, in that range.

The only reason I posted this in this thread is someone may want this info in the future and maybe other people have input on my questions.

If you want 200hp you will have to upgrade the pistons & rods on the 1NZ. My kit or any for that matter, on an 1NZ with upgraded pistons/rods & other supporting mods (fuel system & good tune) will make 225-250hp @ 10-15lbs.

[coheed]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

If you want 200hp you will have to upgrade the pistons & rods on the 1NZ. My kit or any for that matter, on an 1NZ with upgraded pistons/rods & other supporting mods (fuel system & good tune) will make 225-250hp @ 10-15lbs.

I was deffinitely planning on replacing rods and pistons. I wouldnt turbo any motor at 10psi or above without replacing those.

[TheRealEnth]

Wow, this thread expanded quick. I am in need of fixing my front end before i get a kit. I will see how soon i can get this done.

[cdydjded]

Thanks for you compliments. What is you HP goal? It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned. The reason being the different temperature, elevation & humidity in different parts of the US. A car tuned in Miami were the humidity is also in the 90 to 100% range will not perform the same in the dry heat of Arizona for example.

[lilredrocket]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Thanks for you compliments. What is you HP goal? It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned. The reason being the different temperature, elevation & humidity in different parts of the US. A car tuned in Miami were the humidity is also in the 90 to 100% range will not perform the same in the dry heat of Arizona for example.

No it will act differently but will give a decent starting point for tuning.

[RacerFreakXXX]

YW...that was my main point, it would be nice to have some sort of base tune to go off of. My goal HP is 140-145whp. I'm worried anything over that will start causing major damage in the engine, mainly in the winter when you get boost creep, but maybe I'm wrong?

[Nexus1155]

See racer, this is a common misconception among a lot of people saying that the engine cannot handle the power, and everyone I have seen that say this has not had a proper tune done to their vehicle. You need to make sure the thing is reacting safely before you drive it. 10* of KR is not safe LMAO.

Look at Chinos car, got it tuned, and it has never driven better with proper AFR and everything.

On a side note I just burnt my face off using this new lotion at my tanning salon

[TheRealEnth]

you guys are impossible

[cali yaris]

It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned.

It makes the most sense.

It may not perform the same, but many turbo kits come with a pre-loaded map and management. At least the car will start and can be driven to the tuner's shop, instead of being towed.

So you can strongly recommend that the customer tune the car after a successful install in your instructions, do all the necessary disclaimers, and still provide your map that works on your car.

I don't understand the resistance to providing a complete product that will just need some local tweaking.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

It makes the most sense.

It may not perform the same, but many turbo kits come with a pre-loaded map and management. At least the car will start and can be driven to the tuner's shop, instead of being towed.

So you can strongly recommend that the customer tune the car after a successful install in your instructions, do all the necessary disclaimers, and still provide your map that works on your car.

I don't understand the resistance to providing a complete product that will just need some local tweaking.

Ok fine, If I sell a kit with a AEM FIC Ill install a base map. No big deal. BTW if you install my kit with or without the AEM FIC the car is drivable from the first moment. It will not have to be towed to the tuner shop. If you stay out of boost the car will run like it did not have a kit. If you get into boost the car will just run lean.

[RacerFreakXXX]

I think someone should tune the kit in a 70* temp at mid height above sea level at average humidity, then you could really say it wouldn't matter that much. I would definitely insist on a pretune map on my ems, otherwise it's no different then building your own kit.