I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Nexus1155]

methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.

Yeah it is a bit close, but it wasn't much further away from the stock header either. I bought like $50 worth of heat wrap so I guess I'd be silly not to wrap that too

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

Not sure what you mean here. What happened? How many times did you crank it and for how long at each interval? Its an important step considering how fast the turbo is gonna spin at startup with no oil. Did the oil not get tru the lines?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things.

Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged.

The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds.

Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see.

So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though.

Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO...

Took the car for a spin...

Drove conservatively to get some premium gas...

Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over!

I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car?

So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT.

I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?

[kou]

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alrighty, rough draft of my install guide is done. It's a LONG read, but should be an interesting one.

Anybody that has some time available - read it and give me feedback please.

I'm also working on a pre-install guide that includes hooking up some gauges, the AEM FIC, apexi turbo timer, and anything else that comes to mind.

Also - the install guide is a .docx. I changed the extension because YarisWorld wouldn't let me upload a .docx? So if it doesn't open, change the extension. Obviously, you need Word 2007 as well.

Videos and more pictures... Expect them tomorrow.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I just got the banjo bolt off and have no idea why it was leaking. Crush washers aren't deformed, banjo bolt isn't cracked... Could it be I just didn't have it tight enough? It seems so unlikely, because before taking it off I tried tightening it first and it just wasn't happening.

I'll update when I get the return flange off. Chiseling off JB Weld takes a good deal of time.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Update: Turbocharger is back in and I just started the car. I'm not really sure what to think now.

There appears to be a small amount of oil coming from the return elbow on the pan - that's an easy fix. However, I noticed there was a drop of oil on the downpipe flange and where the downpipe connects to the exhaust... How could that have got there? My huge concern now is that for some reason, oil is finding it's way into the exhaust... Because upon starting the engine, I had a ton of white smoke that has yet to dissipate. It's in the engine bay AND coming out of the exhaust. Granted, I did just wrap the downpipe and turbo with exhaust wrap, but why would it be coming out the exhaust as well? Thoughts please

Edit: Just read this usually means the seals are shot... Please tell me this isn't true... HOW could it be true?

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.


I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

I am not sure what you need to say with this sentence. There is no way the engine is flooding with fuel with the injector plugs pulled out unless:

1. The engine is already flooded with fuel with the previous cranking of course with the plugs connected.

2. If the plugs are replaced to colder side ones because of turbo, it is normal that engine do not start immediately or else the same like when you had the stock plugs. If the plugs are replaced, use the stock plugs to ensure good startup and then change them later. The important thing is not to drive with boost on stock plugs.

3. Plugs could be wet with fuel effecting spark. Remove and clean all 4 with a wire brush in the meantime check the plug gap is within tolerance.

There could be more reasons but one of these should solve the problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Parmas

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

[coheed]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

No a timer is not necessary if its water cooled. I would still let it idle about minute/ minute and a half before cutting it off. But thats just me, I'd rather be safe then sorry.