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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Leak is dealt with.
I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it. I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things.
Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged. The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds. Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see. ![]() So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though. Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly. |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO...
Took the car for a spin... Drove conservatively to get some premium gas... Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over! ![]() ![]() I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car? ![]() So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT. I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?
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#5 |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Alrighty, rough draft of my install guide is done. It's a LONG read, but should be an interesting one.
Anybody that has some time available - read it and give me feedback please. ![]() I'm also working on a pre-install guide that includes hooking up some gauges, the AEM FIC, apexi turbo timer, and anything else that comes to mind. Also - the install guide is a .docx. I changed the extension because YarisWorld wouldn't let me upload a .docx? So if it doesn't open, change the extension. Obviously, you need Word 2007 as well. Videos and more pictures... Expect them tomorrow.
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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I just got the banjo bolt off and have no idea why it was leaking. Crush washers aren't deformed, banjo bolt isn't cracked... Could it be I just didn't have it tight enough? It seems so unlikely, because before taking it off I tried tightening it first and it just wasn't happening.
I'll update when I get the return flange off. Chiseling off JB Weld takes a good deal of time.
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Update: Turbocharger is back in and I just started the car. I'm not really sure what to think now.
There appears to be a small amount of oil coming from the return elbow on the pan - that's an easy fix. However, I noticed there was a drop of oil on the downpipe flange and where the downpipe connects to the exhaust... How could that have got there? My huge concern now is that for some reason, oil is finding it's way into the exhaust... Because upon starting the engine, I had a ton of white smoke that has yet to dissipate. It's in the engine bay AND coming out of the exhaust. Granted, I did just wrap the downpipe and turbo with exhaust wrap, but why would it be coming out the exhaust as well? Thoughts please ![]() Edit: Just read this usually means the seals are shot... Please tell me this isn't true... HOW could it be true? |
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#9 |
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Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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Did you end up repriming the turbo? how long were you running it for.
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#10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Yeah I reprimed it the same amount as before. I let the engine run for about 5-10 minutes. I also want to point out there is no obvious oil burning smell, and the smoke DOES NOT have a bluish tint to it.
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 577
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Quote:
1. The engine is already flooded with fuel with the previous cranking of course with the plugs connected. 2. If the plugs are replaced to colder side ones because of turbo, it is normal that engine do not start immediately or else the same like when you had the stock plugs. If the plugs are replaced, use the stock plugs to ensure good startup and then change them later. The important thing is not to drive with boost on stock plugs. 3. Plugs could be wet with fuel effecting spark. Remove and clean all 4 with a wire brush in the meantime check the plug gap is within tolerance. There could be more reasons but one of these should solve the problem. |
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