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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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^ Just curious, unless someone has a failure to report, how does the information shed light on the subject of durability? We should just report stuff that breaks and when.
I'll play anyway, though. I included the grade of gas I use. Engine: Built (bore/sleeved/rods/pistons/springs/head work) F/I: Custom turbo kit T28 Boost: 14-24 WHP: 357 Management: AEM EMS Fuel upgrade: 632cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified Perrin rail, water/meth Fuel: Pump gas (91) Miles on Boost: ~2k miles Length of time: 6 months Driving style: I hammer it several times a week and race 1-2 times a month. MISC: rev limit 7300
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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#2 |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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This thread is entirely useless unless you know why the motor failed. Its nice to say say my stock motor blew up with 200hp but go into no detail as to why that happened. If my stock engine runs leans and seizes or burns a piston it wasn't the engines fault that it happened but say a bad injector or fuel pump or if I toss a rod from running to low on oil but happen to make 160 hp with a turbo its not the turbos fault I ran low on oil so a failure diagnosis is more important than yeah I upped the power and now its dead.
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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#4 | |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Quote:
Ive seen failure pictures of other users on this board and most of them are pretty easily traced to something else that isn't a direct result of the modification installed. I mean its simple if your house gets hit by an earthquake and burns down 2 days later it doesn't mean those 2 actions are related. Ive seen lots of examples of people modding theirs cars and doing no correct tuning to go with it and mix that with a very large community of "tooners" who don't know what their doing and a customer unable to tell the difference and you get inaccurate results. I'm not trying to rain on your parade because it would be nice to know I just have a hard time believing that anything useful will come of this thread. To use myself as an example my car has 75k of extremely hard driving but Ive had no failures to date on the car because there are things I know not to do. As long as you don't let the car run on empty, run on the rev limiter, or run it out of oil your engine should last as long as it was designed to. Running the car low on gas and driving hard introduces fuel starvation which makes the motor run lean which causes the pistons to get to hot or detonate and in tern either seize or throw a rod because it cant handle the stress being put on it. Running it on the rev limit causes the fuel system to cut out which can cause the cylinders to run lean and cause detonation. Oil is self explanatory run low and good by rod bearings. I mean low as in less than full not lower then the indicated line. |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
Your idea is also good but then we would have no one posting anytime soon I would hope that if something breaks further down the line that the poster would update his post.
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