[HELP] Keeping fog lights when installing HID - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

GabL · 07-31-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus

wicked diagram gabl..question though.. so the headlight is turned on thru ground not power + wire? what about the fog light how was that turned on?

Well, you have to ask GuySmiley for that... haha, he posted that diagram.

marcus · 07-31-2007, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GabL

Well, you have to ask GuySmiley for that... haha, he posted that diagram.

sorry gabl thought it was yours. but anyways we should talk about hid on the next meet...

GabL · 07-31-2007, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus

sorry gabl thought it was yours. but anyways we should talk about hid on the next meet...

yeah, hopefully I can get the circuit figured out and installed by the next meet!

marcus · 07-31-2007, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GabL

yeah, hopefully I can get the circuit figured out and installed by the next meet!

yah i think the next meet is this weekend sunday

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7520

by the way recent fix on this update 06/25/2010 just disconnect blue wire fr relay.

IllusionX · 07-31-2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus

wicked diagram gabl..question though.. so the headlight is turned on thru ground not power + wire? what about the fog light how was that turned on?

all new toyota's are actually ground switched. so you basically can get a constant + (red/positive) anywhere in the car.

GuySmily · 08-01-2007, 10:22 PM

For a normal bi-xenon retrofit, we want to use this diagram (created by JAZZ, posted @ hidplanet.com):

#1, #2, and #3 refer to pins on the female socket (plug) for the stock bulb.

True bi-xenon headlamps use a single HID bulb that provides light for both low AND high beam. The projectors in these headlights have a cutoff shield that can be moved up/aside by a solenoid (same way old fashioned doorbells work) to allow more light to escape, forming the high beam.

To mimic the bi-xenon feature, GabL's kit uses an additional bulb to provide the high beam (there is no projector/shield/solenoid/etc in a regular Yaris headlight). While technically, I could erase "Bi-Xenon Solenoid" on the diagram and replace it with "High Beam Bulb," I think we can simplify things even further. You'll notice that in the above diagram, relays are used for both high and low beams. I think we can skip the high beam relay because GabL's kit uses a regular halogen bulb, which is exactly what the stock wiring is designed for.

I am now modifying the diagram to fit GabL's needs in part4/post4.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Real quick before I start part 4 / post 4:

Guys, keep in mind I don't have a Yaris (my girlfriend does)... If anything here doesn't make sense or doesn't match up with your car, let me know. Also, use your common sense. If anything feels dangerous or uncomfortable, stop and think it through before risking hurting/killing yourself.

Your bulb plug looks like this, right?

If so, then you probably want to order a MALE connector from here:
http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm
You could cut your stock wire, but... I think that'd be a REALLY bad idea.

People doing single-xenon (low beam only) or proper bixenon retrofits will only need 1.

If you have a kit with HID low and halogen high like GabL, you will need 2 (one pair), because you are going to use the high beam wires from both sides to power the high beam in your kit.

I recommend buying the connectors without wires, because I recommend using thicker wires. I used 12 gauge wire for my setup, but I have a mid-engine car so I had to run wires all the way from the back of my car to the front. People say 14ga is plenty good, and 16ga is fine too. In my opinion, 18ga is the thinnest I would go. If you want to, you can use their connectors with 18ga wire since it will be easier to use. Your choice.

Also... I bought 6 connectors (without wires) because I knew I would screw up and need replacement spades (the pins that go into the stock female plug). I ended up using most of them. I suggest you do like me and buy extras, otherwise if you screw up you'll have to wait for a few days while they ship you new ones. If you buy the connectors with wires, a screwup is easier to fix - you can cut off part of the wire and try again. Still, if you're doing a $200+ HID retro on your $15000+ car, then you may as well spring the extra $5-$10 for a few extra connectors, just in case.

GuySmily · 08-01-2007, 10:29 PM

Notice that in the diagram in my last post, there's only one set of H4 (common/high/low) wires. This is okay in that case because the stock wires are only used to trigger relays, which takes almost 0 power.

For GabL, I want to eliminate the high beam relay.

...To be continued (working on diagram)

GabL · 08-01-2007, 10:58 PM

Hey GuySmily, thanks for the info!! However, I am not getting a HID kit, but rather I'm having an OEM module (see my other post http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho....php?p=119097). And it seems that I can keep the factory setup and just re-route the wires to match the lights, but the problem now is the find the matching connectors to fit onto the ones on the headlight module... I hope I don't have to fly to Taiwan to get them...

GuySmily · 08-01-2007, 11:27 PM

Wow, I didn't realize it was an entire housing and everything. I'm both impressed and appalled that Toyota did this (usually halogen+xenon sharing same bulb is considered to be cheap aftermarket garbage)..

Anyway... In that case, I'll stop where I'm at with this post and continue the discussion in your original thread.

For anyone who is wiring up an aftermarket semi bi-xenon (hid low, halogen high) kit, here is the wiring diagram you'll want:

Let me know if you need further help (or see GabL's other thread)

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08-01-2007, 10:22 PM	#6
GuySmily Drives: 2005 Toyota MR2 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA, USA Posts: 158	For a normal bi-xenon retrofit, we want to use this diagram (created by JAZZ, posted @ hidplanet.com): #1, #2, and #3 refer to pins on the female socket (plug) for the stock bulb. True bi-xenon headlamps use a single HID bulb that provides light for both low AND high beam. The projectors in these headlights have a cutoff shield that can be moved up/aside by a solenoid (same way old fashioned doorbells work) to allow more light to escape, forming the high beam. To mimic the bi-xenon feature, GabL's kit uses an additional bulb to provide the high beam (there is no projector/shield/solenoid/etc in a regular Yaris headlight). While technically, I could erase "Bi-Xenon Solenoid" on the diagram and replace it with "High Beam Bulb," I think we can simplify things even further. You'll notice that in the above diagram, relays are used for both high and low beams. I think we can skip the high beam relay because GabL's kit uses a regular halogen bulb, which is exactly what the stock wiring is designed for. I am now modifying the diagram to fit GabL's needs in part4/post4. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Real quick before I start part 4 / post 4: Guys, keep in mind I don't have a Yaris (my girlfriend does)... If anything here doesn't make sense or doesn't match up with your car, let me know. Also, use your common sense. If anything feels dangerous or uncomfortable, stop and think it through before risking hurting/killing yourself. Your bulb plug looks like this, right? If so, then you probably want to order a MALE connector from here: http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm You could cut your stock wire, but... I think that'd be a REALLY bad idea. People doing single-xenon (low beam only) or proper bixenon retrofits will only need 1. If you have a kit with HID low and halogen high like GabL, you will need 2 (one pair), because you are going to use the high beam wires from both sides to power the high beam in your kit. I recommend buying the connectors without wires, because I recommend using thicker wires. I used 12 gauge wire for my setup, but I have a mid-engine car so I had to run wires all the way from the back of my car to the front. People say 14ga is plenty good, and 16ga is fine too. In my opinion, 18ga is the thinnest I would go. If you want to, you can use their connectors with 18ga wire since it will be easier to use. Your choice. Also... I bought 6 connectors (without wires) because I knew I would screw up and need replacement spades (the pins that go into the stock female plug). I ended up using most of them. I suggest you do like me and buy extras, otherwise if you screw up you'll have to wait for a few days while they ship you new ones. If you buy the connectors with wires, a screwup is easier to fix - you can cut off part of the wire and try again. Still, if you're doing a $200+ HID retro on your $15000+ car, then you may as well spring the extra $5-$10 for a few extra connectors, just in case.

08-01-2007, 10:29 PM	#7
GuySmily Drives: 2005 Toyota MR2 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA, USA Posts: 158	Notice that in the diagram in my last post, there's only one set of H4 (common/high/low) wires. This is okay in that case because the stock wires are only used to trigger relays, which takes almost 0 power. For GabL, I want to eliminate the high beam relay. ...To be continued (working on diagram)

08-01-2007, 10:58 PM	#8
GabL I want JDM bumpers! View User's Garage Drives: 5 Dr Yaris RS in Blazing Blue Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Toronto Posts: 419	Hey GuySmily, thanks for the info!! However, I am not getting a HID kit, but rather I'm having an OEM module (see my other post http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho....php?p=119097). And it seems that I can keep the factory setup and just re-route the wires to match the lights, but the problem now is the find the matching connectors to fit onto the ones on the headlight module... I hope I don't have to fly to Taiwan to get them...

08-01-2007, 11:27 PM	#9
GuySmily Drives: 2005 Toyota MR2 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA, USA Posts: 158	Wow, I didn't realize it was an entire housing and everything. I'm both impressed and appalled that Toyota did this (usually halogen+xenon sharing same bulb is considered to be cheap aftermarket garbage).. Anyway... In that case, I'll stop where I'm at with this post and continue the discussion in your original thread. For anyone who is wiring up an aftermarket semi bi-xenon (hid low, halogen high) kit, here is the wiring diagram you'll want: Let me know if you need further help (or see GabL's other thread)