205/45/17 or 205/40/17 Front & 215/40/17 Rear

[kimona]

Originally Posted by Biggie™

If you run the wider tire in the front and the narrower one in the rear it will improve cornering. Running more rubber in the rear on a FWD car will promote understeer, something most people try to overcome by using big rear anti-roll bars.

Personally, I'd run the same size wheel and tire front and rear on a Yaris. That way you can easily rotate the tires to increase longevity.

If you're going for best fit and looks (and drive within the limits), then running 10mm's more rubber in the rear won't make any noticeable handling difference whatsoever in everyday driving conditions.

If you plan to race with your everyday tires then take into consideration an application that works best.

If you're a fan of tire rotation (which I am not) then staggering tire sizes will prohibit rotation and decrease tire longevity some.

I've seen dozen of Vitz in Japan with staggered offsets (very common application), and many with staggered tire sizes. In Japan its all about the perfect fit. For those who race their cars, they almost never use their steet wheels/tires.

[Biggie™]

Originally Posted by kimona

If you're a fan of tire rotation (which I am not) then staggering tire sizes will prohibit rotation and decrease tire longevity some.

Thanks for repeating what I said... If you enjoy replacing the front tires 400% more often than the rears, I think you probably shouldn't drive an echno box.

[kimona]

Originally Posted by Biggie™

Thanks for repeating what I said... If you enjoy replacing the front tires 400% more often than the rears, I think you probably shouldn't drive an echno box.

Well... 400% is probably quite an exaggeration, but true the fronts will probably be about 75% worn and due for a change, while the rears will probably still have about 75 tread left.

I don't see anything wrong with that.. just change the 2 front tires... later change the 2 rear tires.

As long as you maintain your car... keep the tires inflated properly and the wheels aligned regularly, then it really doesn't cost more if you don't rotate.

[Biggie™]

Originally Posted by kimona

Well... 400% is probably quite an exaggeration, but true the fronts will probably be about 75% worn and due for a change, while the rears will probably still have about 75 tread left.

So 300% is an acceptable estimate, yet 400% is quite an exaggeration?

[kimona]

Originally Posted by Biggie™

So 300% is an acceptable estimate, yet 400% is quite an exaggeration?

Hmmm... you have an interesting command of mathematics.

Anyway, tire rotation doesn't necessarily extend overall tirelife; if done regularly, it simply allows for even tire wear back to front.

[Biggie™]

Originally Posted by kimona

Hmmm... you have an interesting command of mathematics.

Anyway, tire rotation doesn't necessarily extend overall tirelife; if done regularly, it simply allows for even tire wear back to front.

Percentages are represented by their decimal equivalent. 300% = 3.00, 400% = 4.00 and so on... 25 x 3.00= 75, 25 X 4.00 = 100 and so on... Basic math!

Now, here's where is get even more fun, I'll teach you a little about rubber and tires. Every time a tire is heated up and cooled down, it goes through a heat cycle. Race tires lose a good amount of grip every time they are cycled. Even if they still have a lot of meat left, they can be slicker than snot if they have been repeatedly cycled.

The same goes for street tires, if you want to maintain the maximum amount of traction at the lowest cost. Rotate your tires, if you want to have nice new tires on the front and old hard as rock tires in the rear... You get the picture.

There is also proper/even wear, and keeping a consistent contact patch.. Who cares about any of that silly stuff?