Which way to face subwoofer?

[battleversiontc]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

require is a very strong term.... I've yet to see a driver that sounds like absolute poo unless in a ported box.

Yes, the QTC, Vas, and Fs do have a great effect on if the sub is best suited for ported or sealed, but with virtually any sub on the car audio market you can get decent results with either.

a QTC of .4 or lower means ported would be great
A QTC of .4-.6 means Sealed would be best
and anything above .6 means IB would be best... but IB really is the same as a giant sealed box.

most car audio subs have QTC's in the range of .4-.55 as the best way for stereo companies to make money is to make it work in BOTH types of boxes and have a broader market sector.

well heres proof do your homework before you come back with what you have to say http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/e...Size_hiEff.asp
try putting this in a sealed box and tell me it doesnt sound like poo when in a sealed box i install these everyday and we build the boxes and all of them a required to be ported higher watt subs sound better in ported and sound like poo in sealed. lower watt subs sound better in sealed boxes. the whole theory of a port is to tune the sub to a certain hz and provide more air space to give a deeper bass tone a low hz depending on the port length and wood density and air space every sub out there has a different air space requirement and not all boxes that are universal actually within a spec of what the sub needs there for the only way to get the correct air space is to build a box with the specs they recommend

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by battleversiontc

well heres proof do your homework before you come back with what you have to say http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/e...Size_hiEff.asp
try putting this in a sealed box and tell me it doesnt sound like poo when in a sealed box i install these everyday and we build the boxes and all of them a required to be ported higher watt subs sound better in ported and sound like poo in sealed. lower watt subs sound better in sealed boxes. the whole theory of a port is to tune the sub to a certain hz and provide more air space to give a deeper bass tone a low hz depending on the port length and wood density and air space every sub out there has a different air space requirement and not all boxes that are universal actually within a spec of what the sub needs there for the only way to get the correct air space is to build a box with the specs they recommend

I think you'd have an easier time arguing that a sub can be sealed, but not ported... as some lightweight cones & suspensions can be way to easily overwhelmed by the pressures found in ported & bandpass enclosures.

I almost ran a DD sub about 5 years ago... yeah... they get loud. they are beastly subs meant to get loud and ARE NOT known for having any sound quality characteristics....(read: they sound like poo regardless). They'll survive anything short of a nuclear blast. They also have a bad rap of having published T/S specs as much as 50% off from reality.

I am the first person to argue that each sub plays optimally in a specifically designed box. I don't think the point of a ported box has anything to do with giving the sub more air space... that's not the point, thats just often a requirement.


Like I said before... the overwhelming majority of car audio subs can play in both.... DD makes up an extremely small percent of the audio market. They are a brand for enthusiasts who are into getting very loud.

I'm perfectly happy to talk speakers with you over pm, or even AIM or e-mail.... I don't really want to hijack this thread tho.