HELP PLEEEASE!!! my yaris starts whenever I step on the clutch pedal.

[CTScott]

My bet is on the ST relay (in the under hood fuse panel). Pop it out, tap it on a hard surface, put it back in, and see if the issue stops. If so, replace the relay, as once the contacts start sticking, they will keep doing so.

[silver_echo]

Originally Posted by vwtech

get a schematic and see which wire is energized in the start position I bet you the ignition switch is the problem. maybe temporarily you could pull the starter relay after you start it to save your flywheel. if you could send me a wire diagram I could help alot more though.

i have the EWD... i came to the same conclusion of the ignition switch...

Originally Posted by CTScott

My bet is on the ST relay (in the under hood fuse panel). Pop it out, tap it on a hard surface, put it back in, and see if the issue stops. If so, replace the relay, as once the contacts start sticking, they will keep doing so.

this is the first time that i have been able to catch you and be a troll to you... just playfully though...

in the OP, it stated that the relay was already changed... problem still exists...

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by silver_echo

i have the EWD... i came to the same conclusion of the ignition switch...



this is the first time that i have been able to catch you and be a troll to you... just playfully though...

in the OP, it stated that the relay was already changed... problem still exists...

I saw that, but I still say it's the relay. How many times have you seen a dealer claim that they checked something, but they really did not or didn't properly do so?

[trini_per4mance]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I saw that, but I still say it's the relay. How many times have you seen a dealer claim that they checked something, but they really did not or didn't properly do so?

I actually never took my Yaris back to the dealer to have them do anything on it. Remember I ran out of warranty only after 3 months of buying the the car. I only know everyone at the dealer b'cuz of my high miles everyone knows my car and always look out for me every time I visit the parts dept, from managers to salesmen to technicians. I'm the only person that works on my car. I actually bought a new relay myself and replaced it myself and the problem still exists.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by trini_per4mance

I actually never took my Yaris back to the dealer to have them do anything on it. Remember I ran out of warranty only after 3 months of buying the the car. I only know everyone at the dealer b'cuz of my high miles everyone knows my car and always look out for me every time I visit the parts dept, from managers to salesmen to technicians. I'm the only person that works on my car. I actually bought a new relay myself and replaced it myself and the problem still exists.

What's the part number of the relay you have in there now (just to verify that it is the correct relay)?

From there I would check the following:

1. Ignition Switch - Remove the connector from the key switch and with the key off, check continuity between pin 5 (where the gray wire connects to) and pin 7 (where the black wire connects to). Then, move the key to each position and recheck. There should only be continuity between those two pins when the key is held in the start position.


2. While you have that connector off, on the harness side, measure the voltage between the gray wire and the black wire. It should read 12V. If it reads 0V, then there is a short in the wiring. If it reads more than zero, but less than one volt, then the automatic cranking circuit in the ECM is bad. This is the circuit that allows you to just bump the key and then the starter cranks by itself until the car starts. If that is the issue, you can do either of two things - Replace the ECM, or simply eliminate the "bump" starting (which you can do by cutting one wire in the under hood fuse box).

[trini_per4mance]

Originally Posted by CTScott

What's the part number of the relay you have in there now (just to verify that it is the correct relay)?

From there I would check the following:

1. Ignition Switch - Remove the connector from the key switch and with the key off, check continuity between pin 5 (where the gray wire connects to) and pin 7 (where the black wire connects to). Then, move the key to each position and recheck. There should only be continuity between those two pins when the key is held in the start position.


2. While you have that connector off, on the harness side, measure the voltage between the gray wire and the black wire. It should read 12V. If it reads 0V, then there is a short in the wiring. If it reads more than zero, but less than one volt, then the automatic cranking circuit in the ECM is bad. This is the circuit that allows you to just bump the key and then the starter cranks by itself until the car starts. If that is the issue, you can do either of two things - Replace the ECM, or simply eliminate the "bump" starting (which you can do by cutting one wire in the under hood fuse box).

I'll definitely try this. I'll let u know how it works out. Thanx!

[elcam84]

Originally Posted by CTScott

What's the part number of the relay you have in there now (just to verify that it is the correct relay)?

From there I would check the following:

1. Ignition Switch - Remove the connector from the key switch and with the key off, check continuity between pin 5 (where the gray wire connects to) and pin 7 (where the black wire connects to). Then, move the key to each position and recheck. There should only be continuity between those two pins when the key is held in the start position.


2. While you have that connector off, on the harness side, measure the voltage between the gray wire and the black wire. It should read 12V. If it reads 0V, then there is a short in the wiring. If it reads more than zero, but less than one volt, then the automatic cranking circuit in the ECM is bad. This is the circuit that allows you to just bump the key and then the starter cranks by itself until the car starts. If that is the issue, you can do either of two things - Replace the ECM, or simply eliminate the "bump" starting (which you can do by cutting one wire in the under hood fuse box).

Stepdaughters 08 yaris has started the same symptoms when it's hot. Relay ign switch are good.
Which wire feeds the start relay from the ECM. Need to get it drivable then get a ECM and have it programmed later on.

Thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by elcam84

Stepdaughters 08 yaris has started the same symptoms when it's hot. Relay ign switch are good.
Which wire feeds the start relay from the ECM. Need to get it drivable then get a ECM and have it programmed later on.

Thanks

The orange wire in pin 52 of the ECM connector C20 (the larger connector).

Pin 52 is located on the row closest to the center of the connector, on the side where many of the pins are unpopulated.

Connector C20.jpg

[silver_echo]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I saw that, but I still say it's the relay. How many times have you seen a dealer claim that they checked something, but they really did not or didn't properly do so?

wait, the stealer does what they are supposed to?

[why?]

Originally Posted by silver_echo

wait, the stealer does what they are supposed to?

they do it in my case. Of course, their are benefits to being 6'2" tall and looking like a mountain.

[bairjo]

Originally Posted by why?

they do it in my case. Of course, their are benefits to being 6'2" tall and looking like a mountain.

LOL....For some reason I was waiting for someone to jump on that...nothing wrong with a little humor here.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by bairjo

LOL....For some reason I was waiting for someone to jump on that...nothing wrong with a little humor here.

Yep. Many of his posts crack me up. Another member has that quote from Thomas Paine "Arguing with a man who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead" as part of his signature, and for some reason that quote prompts me to think of why? debating someone of inferior wit.