Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[yarismadness]

Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarismadness

Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!

Nice additions.

The 3A diodes should be more than sufficient, as the ignition switch only switches power to a relay coil (~75mA) for starting.

[hatch2008]

i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hatch2008

i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL

Which idatalink did you buy? Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram that came with it?

Also, the bypass modules typically have a learning mode, where they read your key, so they can emulate it. Did you go through that procedure?

[hatch2008]

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hatch2008

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

What's the model number of the one you bought? It looks like their install manuals are available on their website.

[samltd]

Hi,

I'm trying to install an Avital 4003 remote starter add-on module with a Fortin Key Override All transponder key bypass.

I need help to figure out how to connect the remote starter/transponder bypass to the wires shown by CTScott in his manual.
So far I identified Avital and Fortin Installation instructions to match CTScott's manual

Avital 4003
Primary harness (H1), 9-pin connector

H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM -
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM -
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) -
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (+/-) ACTIVATION INPUT -
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/8 Black (-) CHASSIS GROUND CONNECTION - Ground in DIY manual
H1/9 White (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT - (+) Factory configured - (+) Parking lights wire in DIY manual

4-pin satellite harness diagram

1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT - ?
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - ?
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT - ?
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT - ?

Heavy gauge

1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982
2 PURPLE (+) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT - Starter in DIY manual
3 ORANGE (+) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT - Accessory in DIY manual
4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

Remote start harness (H2), 5-pin connector

H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - ?
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - Tach signal in DIY manual
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Brake switch in DIY manual
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Hood Safety Switch in DIY manual
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?


Fortin Key Override All

Purple/White RX Data In - RX in DIY manual
Yellow/Black RT Data Out - RT in DIY manual
Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?
Green Key Sense - Key Sense in DIY manual

Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground


Thanks

[hatch2008]

this is the by pass im useing and im using type 1 wire diagram.