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Old 02-07-2007, 05:51 AM   #1
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Kicker CompVR 05CVR104

Crutchfield has this subs buy one get one free. Are they any good? I've never had a sound system in my car so this would be my first experience. I noticed that they come in 2 or 4 ohms, whats the difference?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2smTy15...0&I=2065C10VR4
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:02 PM   #2
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I haven't heard a CVR since about 2002, so I don't know about the newer versions, but back then those suckers pumped. Great economy sub.

I dont know much about impedence when it comes to woofers... I think how this works is that the lower the number, the better the sub. A 1 ohm stable subwoofer will usually cost an arm and a leg. Spkrman will be all over this one.
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Old 02-07-2007, 04:42 PM   #3
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A subwoofer's electrical impedence usually does not have any impact on the quality of the subwoofer. The incidence of dual 2 ohm is typically lower than a 4 ohm subwoofer, I still think seeing a lower ohm version subwoofer isn't a good indication if the woofer is a quality speaker.
Although I haven't heard that particular woofer, I have heard some of kicker's subwoofers in the past and have been pleased by their bass. I know some of the comps used to be free air capable, I'm not sure if that's still the case. Overall, if you get a product from Kicker, even a low product, you shouldnt' be disapointed. That being said, the old saying still applies... you get what you pay for.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:14 PM   #4
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The CVR's are one of the most solid entry level woofs, awesome price there, btw.

Lower load means nothing... back in the day when dual voice coils were just coming out... and the hayday of "cheater" amps that wired to very low loads... the "competition" woofers of the day were the lower the better.. yet and still, it was all marketing, but thats the history of where that myth came from.

Now things are very different, the JL 12w7 is available in single 3 ohm coil... by most accounts, that would mean its junk... :)

Get a solid amp, get the coils that match the amp... or the other way around. Either way it'll work great.

My suggestion would be grab that dual 10" setup... and get a good quality 1 ohm class D amp (very important for our little electrical systems... no class a/b plz :) )... then hit me up for a box for your subs :).

The box will make more of a difference than any other change in component.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:18 PM   #5
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yea i have the 12" comp cvr in dual 4 ohm.......im only runnin about 125 watts rms to each coil and it sounds pretty good......would sound best with a full 200 watts to each coil....

but anyways im very happy with the sound
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:44 PM   #6
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Hey spkrman why not class a/b? Just wondeing. Pure class a is very rare in the amp world. I used to compete with the cheater stuff back in the day i was a iasca and usac champ in the 0-150 watt class and my phoenix gold was putting about 1000 watts at half ohm. I still have a mcintosh and monolithic. Monolithic is a very small and very very high qualit amp. The only problem is since its one of the only pure class a ive ever seen it runs hot at even idle and a 25x2 pulls about 50 amps.

Back on topic kickers have always been decent subs. If you dont want to pound the car apart get one sub. With the transfer function of a hatch your going to get about 3db with a additional sub.
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:14 AM   #7
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those subs kickass in a good sealed box.
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spkrman View Post
The CVR's are one of the most solid entry level woofs, awesome price there, btw.

Lower load means nothing... back in the day when dual voice coils were just coming out... and the hayday of "cheater" amps that wired to very low loads... the "competition" woofers of the day were the lower the better.. yet and still, it was all marketing, but thats the history of where that myth came from.

Now things are very different, the JL 12w7 is available in single 3 ohm coil... by most accounts, that would mean its junk... :)

Get a solid amp, get the coils that match the amp... or the other way around. Either way it'll work great.

My suggestion would be grab that dual 10" setup... and get a good quality 1 ohm class D amp (very important for our little electrical systems... no class a/b plz :) )... then hit me up for a box for your subs :).

The box will make more of a difference than any other change in component.
Think this would work?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ks1mUDM...20&I=206ZX7501
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Old 02-09-2007, 02:23 AM   #9
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you'll want a 1 ohm amp with those dual 4 ohm woofers.

and I'd say the zx750 would work great, although you can get that power for cheaper.
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spkrman View Post
you'll want a 1 ohm amp with those dual 4 ohm woofers.

and I'd say the zx750 would work great, although you can get that power for cheaper.
Crazy that I could get the same Amp a LOT cheaper on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/06-NEW-KICKER-ZX...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamilR View Post
Crazy that I could get the same Amp a LOT cheaper on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/06-NEW-KICKER-ZX...QQcmdZViewItem
That generally goes for all car audio equipment. As compared to Ebay, Crutchfield is a fortune.

I got my head unit in 2003 for $300 shipped. That was $100 or more off of every other price I found.
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:06 PM   #12
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Just be careful with eBay and certain components.

There's a lot of fake Focal Polyglass, K2P, and Access speakers on eBay...
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