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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,783
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Go with it! My nail solution is probably wrong. You need THE TOOL and practice to do the install...
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#2 |
![]() Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris (black) Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 14
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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Quote:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...188aAm4p8P8HAQ
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,783
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Quote:
![]() MAkes me long for my 74 VW. It didnt need $82 tools to fix the plumbing... You really dont need to be changing this filter just for the heck of it. Onky if the car doesnt run because the filters FUBAR.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Scion FRS RS2, ‘21 Crosstrek Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,729
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I'm thinking that if the fuel filter was meant to be changed regularly it would be outside the tank along the fuel line (old school) rather than inside the tank.
My '08 is at ~170,000 kl (~100,000 miles), has never had the fuel filter touched, exhibits no performance related issues and the pump doesn't whine (like Fords used to when there external filter was neglected). I suggest to leave it be unless you know it's a problem or someone has dumped something evil into your tank. Besides, if the filter were meant to be changed wouldn't the Toyota dealers stock that part number. You wouldn't have to chase all around to find one.
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots.
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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Quote:
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#7 |
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I've made a post!
Drives: Toyota Yaris Vitz dohc 16v 1.3 Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salford
Posts: 1
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Hi, I am a new member, this thread appears suitable for my needs, I have a Yaris Vitz 2003 1.3 L dohc 16v petrol but we have lots of sleeping policemen in our neighbourhood and things do "get a little bumpy" round here. My car started to die, all cylinders stopped firing together. Sprayed around the electrics with water repellant WDxx. Car started but died after a short spell. Started after a while but again died after a short run. Decided to change the fuel filter first!
Any ideas on the part number required to fit this model? What range of models will this part fit? I ask because there is so much 'information' out there some sense of "cross reference" will help me avoid buying the wrong part. Many thanks for any answers to my request for help. I've gotten attached to this steady car and I do not want to let go while I know I can fix this problem. |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris (black) Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 14
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Hi guys I have the Fuel pump assembly put back in but started it several times but I can't get the car to start. Does the Fuel pump assy have to be charged with petrol prior to starting or can it just be simply immersed in the tank and then it would draw the fuel into the device? I'm thinking and dreading buying the whole pump assy, but i think i may have to, especially after i put on that black hose with heat, there may be a vacuum leak and not drawing fuel correctly? Well I guess I'll have to shell out that cash if I want it done right, so much for trying to go the cheap route:(
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#9 |
![]() Drives: Yaris 2009 1.3 sol 100HP Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Israel
Posts: 4
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Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France). Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter. will appreciate any help... thank you |
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#10 |
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I've made a post!
Drives: Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tanzania
Posts: 1
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I have tried to open this thing but i couldnt, i have taken out the whole tank but still i did not make it.. any other tip?
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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Quote:
1. Beat it off with a hammer and piece of wood. This will damage some of the ribs on the cap, and will be a heck of a workout, but does work. 2. Make a tool, like the picture below. I created this a few years ago and a couple of people on here have had them made, based on my design. I simply took a piece of scrap pipe, cut a piece in half, and welded the cut sections to the main piece. This perfectly catches the ribs on the cap and allows easy unscrewing and tightening of the cap: fuel tank tool.jpg
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#12 |
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Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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I am one of the ones that copied Scott's design. If you do an advanced search for fuel tank tool for posts with my handle I have posted photos with measurements.
Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 291
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ectoman,
So boiling water isn't hot enough to make the tubing pliable enough to slip over the nipple properly. Raise the temperature of the boiling water. Add salt to it. I think for every tsp. of salt into a quart of water you can raise the boiling temp. 1 or 2 degrees F. Or or you could try heating some salt in an oven, regular old table salt in an oven proof dish to a set temp, say 240 degrees F. stick the end of the tubing in there for several seconds and try it on the nipple. Do this incrementally so as not to damage the tubing. Test it. It may take a couple of tries raising the temp a bit at a time. That could work without damaging the tubing and getting a proper seat on the nipple. Of course I have no idea what effect salt or a concentrated saline solution would have on the short or long term integrity of the tubing would be, I doubt it would be anything really, it would only be in contact briefly, so of course, you do this at your own risk. cheers. Don't ask how I know this, suffice to say I learned it in college. Last edited by NEexpat; 06-17-2016 at 03:51 PM. |
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#14 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch is sold Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 45
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WTF the yaris has no fuel filter on the firewall like every car has had for decades?
I was thinking of changing the filter and found this. this is the stupidest thing I ever saw...its in the tank? wow thats ridiculous. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38381 |
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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 551
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Just a tip for anyone wanting to push fittings on plastic tubing, you can use a caulk gun and a wooden clamp to press them on.
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#16 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: poughkeepsie ny
Posts: 48
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I am happy for the revival of this thread, I have completely forgotten that I probably should change the fuel filter on my 2009 which has over 250,000 miles on it. I am quite certain I will find a way to get a filter in there, but my concern is getting a reputable filter that fits a 2009 1.5 American model. I saw a Herko brand on ebay but after multiple emails getting NASA (Never A Straight Answer) answers to very basic questions, I gave up and forgot about it. I am concerned that going with a no name brand from a relatively new company, I will be left with a not-up-to-par filter with a poorly fitting housing. I am concerned about the filter media itself. I don't want to find out that it disintegrates or collapses on itself. Has anyone done this on a 2009?
EDIT: What I mean to say is, I'm a cheap guy. I'm NOT buying a 200 buck fuel pump setup to replace what should be a $30 filter. I wouldn't risk getting a new pump that might fail sooner than the oem that's currently in there. I'm looking for someone who might know a decent aftermarket filter that I can make work in my oem. Interesting on getting an 07 pump to use that cheap filter, but would rather keep my pump, you know? :-) Maybe I could somehow dig out the old filter media, leave it empty and attach an oldschool filter somewhere on the firewall. THAT would be cool. second edit: I think I'm going to have to do this twice. My car is an 09, but made in August of 08. Apparently there are differences between 08 and 09, and sometimes my luck is good... I'm going to remove my pump soon disassemble it and take photos and put it back and just buy a filter and do it again when it comes in. I gotta clean out my back seat, anyway... Last edited by mirageman; 02-24-2023 at 10:59 PM. |
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#17 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: poughkeepsie ny
Posts: 48
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The fuel pump/filter assembly has been removed today from my 2009 model year 1.5 liter American sedan which was made in Japan in August of 2008. It wasn't very hard at all to remove. I used a flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap the retainer ring off. I was excited to see the port locations (see pictures) of the main filter matched what I saw here in this thread from the other poster's 2008 model. I thought the Beck/Arnley part would fit mine, but I misunderstood his picture as being the new part. I still don't quite get it, though. I thought 2008 filters were different from 2009, but my filter looks just like the picture from the 2008 used here in this thread. I think the same guy maybe posted pictures on Amazon too for the Beck part, but the pictures of new Beck Arnley 043-3008 and oem do not say which is which, hehe... I guess I'm going to have to keep looking for filters online that matches mine. I am a bit concerned because I covered the open hole (which the wire plug for the pump goes through) and blew into the big hole where the pump slides in and all this blackened gasoline got spat out. You can see it pooling in the port in the picture and also on the white table in the other picture. That is gasoline that goes to the engine out the top... Why is it black? I could see blackened crap flowing around the inside of the filter housing when I was blowing through it too. I was able to blow through it pretty easily, very little resistance, and after all that dirty gasoline came out, it actually got harder to blow through. I've come across this with other fuel filters and am not sure of the physics behind it being easier to blow through when it is soaked, but anyway.... Putting it back in the tank was harder than taking it out. I was very concerned because the screw retainer ring thing would not seem to tighten squarely. It was looking very crooked and felt very wrong no matter how much time I spent trying to get it right.
I read about another person complaining of the same issue and saying that it works out eventually, and it did for mine too. After like half a turn, it kinda seated square, and I still can't wrap my head around it. I think when I replace the filter sometime by summer, I will try to put the retaining rign on without the pump and seeing what the heck is stopping it from going on nicely. Seeing as there is very little resistance through this filter despite it having over 250,000 miles, I am not in any rush to get a filter, but if I find one that is reasonable in price I will certainly post here to help others. |
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#18 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 463
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Quote:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256 |
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