Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

I was just playing with glass on the Pilots a-pillar and new Mids baffle, this is my first a-pillar build so lets see how it goes! Oops no pictures I don't have my camera with me... I'll take some tomorrow.



D.

[sqcomp]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

If we count the tiles it's a little over 3.5 feet or 42 inches.


D.

It's exactly 36"...I have 40 inches between the pass through. It's a little tight...and WTH?!? The web site says 24.5" for the S2b. Ooops!



^That board you see the amps on is the same one I had the LRx's on. Something to think about there!

RAWR!!!!

The 320 Ampere DC Power alternator will be hand made and in my paws in 5 weeks.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

It's exactly 36"...I have 40 inches between the pass through. It's a little tight...and WTH?!? The web site says 24.5" for the S2b. Ooops!


^That board you see the amps on is the same one I had the LRx's on. Something to think about there!

RAWR!!!!

The 320 Ampere DC Power alternator will be hand made and in my paws in 5 weeks.

Not fair, I'm going to start signing my post as a Double "D" now...


DD

.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I'll take some tomorrow.
D.

DD.

[derickveliz2]

Thanks T.

1. I should have done some sanding you are 100% right on the dime, me bad been lazy or tired I forgot )o:
So far the a-pillars material is pure plastic, nothing like my corolla's a-pillar material, looks like nothing would stick to it, I agree with you.
We'll see how it goes.

2. I also agree with you to cover the entire a-pillar with fabric, now that I think about it, I can think of 2 things... One is I wanted it to keep it light,
the second one, my working table is way too small that I was afraid of doing the entire pillar, I may get screw up finishing but that's the process of learning right?

Wish me luck, and thanks keep them coming.

D.

[_S7V7N_]

Okay imma be very blunt....WTF !!! @ SQ with the power plants....Dammit bro you could power your house from them things if the lights ever went out

[sqcomp]

There's a singular mode and direction of thought to my madness. My mode of thought is that I want the best sounding system in a yaris...period. Take a look at mark Eldridge and Scott buwalda's SQ rigs. None were starved for power and none used little amplifiers. With these amps and the power to back them up, there is no excuses on my part.

If I ever become non linear in my output, it won't be for lack of juice or ampilfer output, you can be guaranteed! I'll also be able to hit a 135 dB with NO issues. I might look at 140 with the setup actually.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

Hi Derick

1. I normally do lots of sanding before applying epoxy or fiberglass resin (sorry, do not know how to call properly the compound you use). Sanding DOES improve adhesion. Sometimes drill lots of tiny holes if in doubts whether the whole shit will hold strongly. Totyota uses sometime crazy plastics for its a-pillars - nothing sticks perfectly.

T. you are absolutely right!

After applying good amounts of torque to the pillars some areas give up! what I mean is that I could tell is not a 100% bond.
So I'll drill some holes on top and beyond the fleece, and apply another layer of glass. Then fill in the inside with clay and silicone.
Besides that feels strong and the baffle is rigid and solid.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

tiny holes spaced 5 milimiteters apart around the whole perimeter will save you ))

I am in russia at the moment - I can easily buy here the regular epoxy rather than fast drying fiberglass resin becasue it is way stronger in term of adhesion (though dries very slowly - around 24 hours per layer) - I normally try to use epoxy for such strange plastic parts (sometimes i start thinking it is not pure plastic but some mixture of plastic and rubber)

I do not think silicone will help you in any eay- concentrate on building the proper outer shell of the pod

Again, sorry for being stubborn - think about covering the whole piece (with lots of prior sanding with harsh sandpaper) can be a solution to your "applied torque and crashed" problem

As requested, I wish you best of luck!! ))

Yes, I did punch a bunch of holes and it's drying right now, we'll see tomorrow. Thank you.

I'm using Silicone inside! not outside, I know Glass can get very strong but also too hard it would crack at some point, so the silicone inside around the baffle. (this is just me, who knows if it helps or not)

I'm really thinking about covering everything, but we'll see (I feel lazy now too much work jeje)

So you are in Russia? do you have a picture of your Yaris over there?

Thanks

D.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

I find yaris HB cute.

BLASPHEMY!!!

The Yaris is not CUTE...


on another note...all of this custom work reminds me all of the time about those people that ask me, "but what if you want to sell the car?"

As far as I am concerned if you are going to put thousands or even tens of thousands into a vehicle and then not realize that you have gotten out of it the value then you invested in the wrong thing in the first place. I get a kick out of those people that part their rides out to try and squeeze the most money out of a sale that they can. In this case let's be honest...you didn't have the money in the first place to do the work and need to reassess their financial capabilities. Just look at my sig line for the truth of it.


I have had this thread subscribed from jump. It is a great project and cataloging of the information involved.

[sqcomp]

The easy thing about it is, anything that is done can be put back to stock.

I've got spare panels and carpeting if I want to put it back to stock. Anything I've done can be brought back to stock within 24 hours.

It's that easy.

I will agree with you though. A lot of people expect more than realistically will happen from the car. I don't want to sell the car anyway. I love having the OMGawd reaction when people see what I'm doing with the system.

D - I just ordered a 320 Amp DC Power Alternator for the little Yaris. Each of the S2b's ask for a 200 Amp fuse. I won't be pulling that much however, playing everything at 4 Ohms. RAAWWRR!

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2007~...03-320-hp.html

[derickveliz2]

Most of the time girls think a Yaris is "Cute" I think it's a great car to play with... I'm not referring on T's comment by the way.

Good fuel economy
Not very expensive
Ok, looks "cute" but I took care of that with accessories.
Easy to DIY everything from oil change to removing panels and seats. I do everything on my cars, no body touches them, from dealers, car audio shop, car wash, etc.
Really good platform for SQ (Sound Quality) system, center instrument cluster and geometry of dashboard ideal for "Front Stage" set up.

"but what if you want to sell the car?" Will I sell it? I don't think so. Maybe in 10 years from now LoL

SQ... that's an awesome 320 amp. AND yes I think in 24 hours and a couple of panels brings the inside to stock, now springs will need another day, jeje

FN... what does HISUI RYU means? is it some kind of Art? Do you have Turbo?

CUTE?............................................. .................................................. .........................NICE!!!



D.

[derickveliz2]

For our journal...I've been driving without a-pillars (MIDS & Tweets), so I plugged the tweeters and put them in the cup holders in an "off axis position"... so in a 2 way front stage:

Tweeters:
HP 4 kHz with 24 db slope. LP 20 kHz

Mid bass:
HP 63 Hz with 24 db slope. LP 4 kHz with 24 db slope

Subwoofer:
HP 20 Hz - LP 40 Hz (can't remember the slope).

Even like that sounds pretty dam good! the stage is right on the HU's screen not as high/forward compare to a 3 way front stage, but still pretty good. I do miss the MIDS and see the need. The width it's a little narrower, not as wide but I could live with it. (o:


D.

[sqcomp]

Yeah...that midrange seems to be anemic in a lot of the two way setups I've heard.

I have never been happy with the sound of the two way setups I've tried. I've always leaned towards three way setups simply for the control.

[derickveliz2]

The way I see it is that the Tweeters take half of the vocals, and 6.5" speakers take the other half leaving a big gap in between, well sort of!

D.

[sqcomp]

Yes...exactly...there's a response gap. You can hear that when listening to a sound board in a shop running two way setups.

There's sacrifice when we split the vocal range at 2500 Hz (for example) between a mid woofer and a tweeter that doesn't do the entire mid range effectively.

For example, when you have a mid woofer that is reproducing a handful of sounds at different points of the frequency range...when you're at the top end trying to reproduce the vocals with a heavier mid bass beat? The mid range can become muddled and less accurate especially at higher linearity levels.

VERSUS

Using a dedicated mid range speaker, in the mid range frequency the we hear most accurately, is more desirable from the standpoint of sound reproduction accuracy. Work smarter, not harder.

[_S7V7N_]

I'm running around with no Driver door panel till i get in my replacement 6.5's, (Hopefully they're the late Father's Day gift that the g/f says is in the mail )...My g/f keeps lookin at my door panel sitting by the front door wondering when i'm gonna put it back in ..Loll

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

FN... what does HISUI RYU means? is it some kind of Art? Do you have Turbo?

It means Jade Dragon in Kanji.

Yes I am boosted.