megan coilover settings

[xnamerxx]

With crash bolts I only got -1.5 and I needed to slot the holes to get an additional -1.5. Your neg camber can also vary depending on how much you've lowered the car as well so if Garm's lowered 3" hes going to be pretty deep into his camber curve whereas if you've only dropped an inch you won't have much camber gain. Remember suspension travels on a slight arc.

The right left readings will always be there because there is always tolerances built into everything. The .3 difference is meaningless and isn't even noticeable in most applications.

As for your rubbing you have +20 offset wheels that are 8" wide and with the relatively light spring rate in the rear with the megans and possibly a car that's been lowered to far you'll get rubbing when you hit a bump or turn hard or even have a few heavy passengers in the back.

[DeathBeard]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

With crash bolts I only got -1.5 and I needed to slot the holes to get an additional -1.5. Your neg camber can also vary depending on how much you've lowered the car as well so if Garm's lowered 3" hes going to be pretty deep into his camber curve whereas if you've only dropped an inch you won't have much camber gain. Remember suspension travels on a slight arc.

The right left readings will always be there because there is always tolerances built into everything. The .3 difference is meaningless and isn't even noticeable in most applications.

As for your rubbing you have +20 offset wheels that are 8" wide and with the relatively light spring rate in the rear with the megans and possibly a car that's been lowered to far you'll get rubbing when you hit a bump or turn hard or even have a few heavy passengers in the back.

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

I used a die grinder and a carbide bit but I couldn't tell you the size it was just something I grabbed from the shop. I slotted it out to the edge mark of the bolt on the upper bolt hole it give you an idea of how far I went out.

A drill bit would make the job take quite a bit more time FYI since most of the shocks are thick DOM.

[DeathBeard]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I used a die grinder and a carbide bit but I couldn't tell you the size it was just something I grabbed from the shop. I slotted it out to the edge mark of the bolt on the upper bolt hole it give you an idea of how far I went out.

A drill bit would make the job take quite a bit more time FYI since most of the shocks are thick DOM.

is your die grinder hooked up to air? i dont have access to a compressor

[DeathBeard]

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d.php?p=562723

[xnamerxx]

The die grinder was pneumatic but a dremel works as well its just slower. I wouldn't use a drill only because it'll take a really long time.

If you look at his picture the only thing you actually need is the silver piece it pops right off the mount that silver piece is the actual bearing the black piece is the spring support which isn't be needed.

[DeathBeard]

Ok so take the "silver piece" press it into the red top plate provided by megan put the stock black donut on and install? The thing confusing me was if we had to reuse the top oem black springplate or not

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

By top hole I assume you mean the upper of the 2 bolts that secure the strut to upright not the upper bolt hole that secures the strut to the chassis.

[DeathBeard]

yes like this