battery light on and off

[yariseggvvti]

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

That seems to be a common problem with aftermarket alternators. They don't seem to properly output the signal to the cluster. Have you measured the voltage with the engine running to see what the actual output of the alternator is?

[Geoff Peace]

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

I got my alternator replace and the battery light on and off. Battery with 100% good. The vehicle running find but the light is on and off. when the light is on kinda blinking dim. Any idea??? Thanks!!

2007 hatch with 72k now. What else I need to check. Ground cable is good.
Autozone alternator is good enough I think. I am going to order one from Toyota. I am going to install it this weekend. Hopefully the solve the problem.

This happens here in the UK with some aftermarket alternators not only on Toyota but other makes as well. If bought from a reputable supplier, usually OK but there seem to be a lot of cheap rebuilds which are not OK. I think the quality of the components used is not up to the mark, particularly the rectifier and regulator. Just one leaking diode will create the problem you describe.

Regards Geoff Peace.

[yariseggvvti]

Thanks for you time CTScott and Geoff Peace.

your information helps a bit. I am going to replace OEM Toyota alternator. I hate the light come on the off. It makes me feel annoying. Lucky I purchase the alternator with 28% off the list price. Dont trust any none OEM replacing parts.

[yariseggvvti]

Finally got the factory alternator in now. Running fine and no more battery light on and off. Spend little extra money taking care the problem is worth.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

Finally got the factory alternator in now. Running fine and no more battery light on and off. Spend little extra money taking care the problem is worth.

What did you do with the bad one? I'd like to take a look at one of the aftermarket ones to see why the heck they all act this way.

[bronsin]

Next time go to the on line junkyard and get an OEM part.with 30k miles on it.

The alternator, water pump, calipers, master cylinder, exhaust system and in fact everything but the MAF and brake pads/shoes on my sons 2000 ECHO with ~180,000 k miles on it are origional.

[yariseggvvti]

I return it back to Autozone. I am using it for about two weeks.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Originally Posted by Ecoman44

Reviving an old post because I have a similar issue. I have an aftermarket alternator, but it's been in the car (2007 Hatchback) for over a year now with no issues until now. Occasionally, the battery light and airbag light will flash on then off (sometimes just the battery light). When it happens, I can hear a difference in the load on the engine (slight, but it's there). When running, volt meter on the battery reads 14.5v +/- and when not running it reads 13.3v +/-. Could this be the same corrosion issue with the regulator?

Could be intermittently sticking brushes - easy enough to check if you're up for dismantling the alternator.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ecoman44

Reviving an old post because I have a similar issue. I have an aftermarket alternator, but it's been in the car (2007 Hatchback) for over a year now with no issues until now. Occasionally, the battery light and airbag light will flash on then off (sometimes just the battery light). When it happens, I can hear a difference in the load on the engine (slight, but it's there). When running, volt meter on the battery reads 14.5v +/- and when not running it reads 13.3v +/-. Could this be the same corrosion issue with the regulator?

Yes. The alternator is definitely bad. Many of the aftermarket ones are just refurbished or recycled OEM ones. I have a couple of spare alternators on hand if you need one.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ecoman44

The one I bought had a lifetime warranty, so let me see what I can get accomplished that route, then I'll contact you if I need one CTScott. Thanks!!

There you go - Definitely hit up the lifetime warranty.

[JimKellyfan]

Yeah, for alternators, I would check locally to see if you have a rebuilder nearby. Then, take your original and have it rebuilt, or have them install one they rebuilt. With aftermarket quality varying greatly, Napa has been up and down on quality as is with O Reilly's. But never want a pump (power steering/water/any) or (starter/alternator) electrical motor from AZ or ADV. They are mostly junk, hence the lifetime warranty.
The absolute best route is a local rebuilder, we have one in town and they are great.

[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by Ecoman44

So, since I hate it when folks don't come back and report on what fixed the problem

+1

[Miryai]

Originally Posted by Ecoman44

Reviving an old post because I have a similar issue. I have an aftermarket alternator, but it's been in the car (2007 Hatchback) for over a year now with no issues until now. Occasionally, the battery light and airbag light will flash on then off (sometimes just the battery light). When it happens, I can hear a difference in the load on the engine (slight, but it's there). When running, volt meter on the battery reads 14.5v +/- and when not running it reads 13.3v +/-. Could this be the same corrosion issue with the regulator?

I hate necro'ing a thread, but it seems I'm having a similar issue.

I just replaced my alternator (I'm on my fifth one...in about 2 years.) I've replaced the battery recently. I'm getting the battery light, my airbag light and my power steering light on.

All 3 lights will go away after awhile, but whenever the power steering light comes on, even going 40mph+ the wheel will lock up, and I can't move it. It's becoming more of a safety concern now.

I've also noticed that my headlights will also be quite a bit brighter.

I've had the alternator and battery tested in the past week and everything is "functioning" as it should. All the numbers match up to what should be standard. All the mechanics I take it to, think I'm crazy, until I show them the videos I've taken of it happening.

I've also recently blown threw a new set of headlights. All 4 filaments were burnt out, but no fuses needed to be replaced.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Miryai

I hate necro'ing a thread, but it seems I'm having a similar issue.

I just replaced my alternator (I'm on my fifth one...in about 2 years.) I've replaced the battery recently. I'm getting the battery light, my airbag light and my power steering light on.

All 3 lights will go away after awhile, but whenever the power steering light comes on, even going 40mph+ the wheel will lock up, and I can't move it. It's becoming more of a safety concern now.

I've also noticed that my headlights will also be quite a bit brighter.

I've had the alternator and battery tested in the past week and everything is "functioning" as it should. All the numbers match up to what should be standard. All the mechanics I take it to, think I'm crazy, until I show them the videos I've taken of it happening.

I've also recently blown threw a new set of headlights. All 4 filaments were burnt out, but no fuses needed to be replaced.

Do you have any way of measuring the voltage when the car is running? You can purchase the little volt meters that plug in to the lighter outlet for about $5 on ebay, if you do not. It would be interesting to see what your alternator is putting out. From the behavior you describe it sounds like it may be running over voltage instead of under.

Are you are purchasing aftermarket alternators?

Also, have you checked the ground straps between the engine and chassis? Since the engine is mounted with bushings, those straps are the only ground for the alternator.

[Miryai]

My previous alternator was overcharging by a good bit. From what the mechanics said I was outputting like a good 19volts idling, even more with the accelerator pushed down.

Sadly, these are aftermarkets, since the dealership wants a good $2,000+ to replace the alternator, especially since the one I have is still under a lifetime warranty, but I will definitely get one of those meters, and see what happens when the battery light is on, and what not. I've not checked the straps, as I didn't think of that possibility.

Thanks for the ideas and input! I'll keep you guys posted.

[z0mb13k1ll]

my '07 with 300,000+ km still had the factory alternator on it and after a night at the drive in it started to flicker the battery light. took it to the mechanics and they replaced the battery and said it was fixed (even tho i said to them it was the alternator) and so of course i went back a week later with the same problem and a destroyed brand new battery. so got the alternator replaced and another new battery (for free).

still no idea what caused it, but it has worked fine for several months now

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.

I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.