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Old 12-11-2013, 10:36 AM   #1
JimKellyfan
 
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Yeah, for alternators, I would check locally to see if you have a rebuilder nearby. Then, take your original and have it rebuilt, or have them install one they rebuilt. With aftermarket quality varying greatly, Napa has been up and down on quality as is with O Reilly's. But never want a pump (power steering/water/any) or (starter/alternator) electrical motor from AZ or ADV. They are mostly junk, hence the lifetime warranty.
The absolute best route is a local rebuilder, we have one in town and they are great.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #2
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So, since I hate it when folks don't come back and report on what fixed the problem, here I am. Replaced the alternator, under warranty and at no additional cost, and all is well. We do have a shop here that I have had rebuild starters and alternators before, but I went this route as it was the quickest way for me to get my dependable mode of transport back on the road. Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:18 PM   #3
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So, since I hate it when folks don't come back and report on what fixed the problem
+1
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:47 AM   #4
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my '07 with 300,000+ km still had the factory alternator on it and after a night at the drive in it started to flicker the battery light. took it to the mechanics and they replaced the battery and said it was fixed (even tho i said to them it was the alternator) and so of course i went back a week later with the same problem and a destroyed brand new battery. so got the alternator replaced and another new battery (for free).

still no idea what caused it, but it has worked fine for several months now
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:09 AM   #5
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I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.

I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:32 AM   #6
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I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.

I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD.
The white wire on the alternator connector is the feedback wire to the voltage regulator. There should be battery voltage on that pin with the engine not running.
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:50 AM   #7
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I purchased a volt meter. It was $5 including shipping and handling, and you never know, it might be useful for one of my house mate's cars later. But once I have it, I'm gonna plug it in and run, see if I can manage to look at it when the issue is happening. But all I know, is that it's starting to occur a lot more frequently. It's happening more and staying on longer, than when it looks like everything is fine.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:28 AM   #8
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Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:55 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Miryai View Post
Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.
Now that you have the meter, with the engine off, check the voltage on the white pin of the alternator connector.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:15 AM   #10
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For what it's worth, wiggle that connector first too and see if that fixes the problem. Also after you unplug it, have a look inside for any green corrosion. There's also a chance the pin isn't tight enough.


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Old 05-01-2014, 10:40 AM   #11
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I removed all the connectors and cleaned.
Where I work they have a tester
The results are:
Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca
Starter test 11.25v
Charging test v 13.94
I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap..
I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away.
Steve
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by nortonfb View Post
I removed all the connectors and cleaned.
Where I work they have a tester
The results are:
Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca
Starter test 11.25v
Charging test v 13.94
I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap..
I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away.
Steve
Your getting good readings. Is your alternator the original one or a replacement?
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:52 PM   #13
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The alternator is marked Toyota Denso. I don't know if it's
original. I bought the car last February after I totaled my 08'.
Steve
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:05 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by nortonfb View Post
The alternator is marked Toyota Denso. I don't know if it's
original. I bought the car last February after I totaled my 08'.
Steve
What's the part number on it?

There is a TSB on 07-08 alternators where the internals of the voltage regulator, within the alternator, corrode.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:58 AM   #15
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The numbers are:
17060-21150
10 42 10 - 8180
12v / (1?) 6 6
MN
Toyota Denso
Thanks
Steve
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nortonfb View Post
The numbers are:
17060-21150
10 42 10 - 8180
12v / (1?) 6 6
MN
Toyota Denso
Thanks
Steve
That first number should be a 2, instead of a 1 (27060-21150), but the 21150 versus 21151 is the one which potentially has the non-sealed voltage regulator, which is prone to corrosion.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:23 PM   #17
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If there is a TB on it, does Toyota share any cost or they
are just aware a problem exits?
Thanks much,
Steve
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:05 PM   #18
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If there is a TB on it, does Toyota share any cost or they
are just aware a problem exits?
Thanks much,
Steve
With a TB they are not required to do anything, particularly if you are out of warranty. The TBs are really just references for techs on common issues.
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