increasing engine idle speed ?

[ron3]

I asked the toyota service advisor today and was told it could not be adjusted. He said to just give it more gas. He also said that the reason the motors stalled and shuttered badly at take off was because they had very little low end torque.

[mazilla]

Originally Posted by ron3

I asked the toyota service advisor today and was told it could not be adjusted. He said to just give it more gas. He also said that the reason the motors stalled and shuttered badly at take off was because they had very little low end torque.

The service adviser is completely wrong.


You will need to remove the TB from the vehicle and then locate the small blob of epoxy covering the adjustment screw. Using a torch and pick burn the epoxy and pick enough of it away to free up the screw. It sould take all of 45min-1 hour to get the TB off, epoxy cleared and the TB back on to begin adjustment.


Mark the original location with a paint pen(or whatever you have handy), give the screw 1 complete turn clockwise and then reconnect the battery, turn the key to ignition, pump the gas pedal a couple of times(to manipulate the butterfly into it's new position) then start it up. Give it a few minutes if you feel the idle is correct just to be sure it stays where you want it when warm/hot...obviously if the idle is sky high you'll want to go back 50% towards the original location, so on and so forth.


It's best if you start the process with a warm engine, you'll want to be as close to normal operating temp as you can. I wait until I'm at 185 degrees or so...which means I have to be careful of hot coolant and hot parts, but it's not an issue really. The biggest pain is the TB coolant lines, they will spew hot coolant when you drop them below a certain level/ It would be best to block them off until you are certain the idle is where you want it, then reconnect, top off coolant and go.




No amount of money(short of standalone and wired throttle) will change that shit idle, you'll have to take matters into your own hands.

The stock ECU doesn't like an idle that stays above 750ish very long, in order to get that 1K idle I have to deal with the check engine light. Also, the damned ECU will do it's best to compensate for the idle after a while, it may eventually get you back down to 750ish, I'm not sure exactly what it does to get you there but it may end up in the occasional coasting stall.


Even after going back to the 1nz TB for some time this week I noticed the ECU driving me back down to 750ish rpm, which resulted in a stall a couple of times as I would shift from 3rd under power to neutral and coasting to a stop. The rpm's drop down to 500, freeze, try to jump up but end up falling all the way off and stalling out.

[DMZ]

If a dealer service adviser was to do it or even tell you how to do it, he would probably be in violation of state law.

From the BAR website:

"An engine change may not be performed if it degrades the effectiveness of a vehicle's emission control system."

That epoxy is there for a reason.

[47_MasoN_47]

Originally Posted by mazilla

No amount of money(short of standalone and wired throttle) will change that shit idle, you'll have to take matters into your own hands.

It may idle low but a replacement TB and whatnot will increase throttle response, which should negate any stall problems. That's what I was referring to.

I don't have a manual Yaris, but my old pickup idles anywhere from 500-2k depending on what mood it's in. I don't ever have problems stalling.

[esse10]

Originally Posted by mazilla

The service adviser is completely wrong.


You will need to remove the TB from the vehicle and then locate the small blob of epoxy covering the adjustment screw. Using a torch and pick burn the epoxy and pick enough of it away to free up the screw. It sould take all of 45min-1 hour to get the TB off, epoxy cleared and the TB back on to begin adjustment.


Mark the original location with a paint pen(or whatever you have handy), give the screw 1 complete turn clockwise and then reconnect the battery, turn the key to ignition, pump the gas pedal a couple of times(to manipulate the butterfly into it's new position) then start it up. Give it a few minutes if you feel the idle is correct just to be sure it stays where you want it when warm/hot...obviously if the idle is sky high you'll want to go back 50% towards the original location, so on and so forth.


It's best if you start the process with a warm engine, you'll want to be as close to normal operating temp as you can. I wait until I'm at 185 degrees or so...which means I have to be careful of hot coolant and hot parts, but it's not an issue really. The biggest pain is the TB coolant lines, they will spew hot coolant when you drop them below a certain level/ It would be best to block them off until you are certain the idle is where you want it, then reconnect, top off coolant and go.




No amount of money(short of standalone and wired throttle) will change that shit idle, you'll have to take matters into your own hands.

The stock ECU doesn't like an idle that stays above 750ish very long, in order to get that 1K idle I have to deal with the check engine light. Also, the damned ECU will do it's best to compensate for the idle after a while, it may eventually get you back down to 750ish, I'm not sure exactly what it does to get you there but it may end up in the occasional coasting stall.


Even after going back to the 1nz TB for some time this week I noticed the ECU driving me back down to 750ish rpm, which resulted in a stall a couple of times as I would shift from 3rd under power to neutral and coasting to a stop. The rpm's drop down to 500, freeze, try to jump up but end up falling all the way off and stalling out.

I think you got the check engine light because the car was running too lean or too rich since you adjusted the TB. I know that in some cars everytime you do work with the TB you need to re-calibrate the TB so the ECU and TB are in synch for proper fuel to air ratio. I would be okay with 750 rpm, it's the 450-500 rpm that I have a problem with. mine does not stall it's just for driving convenience. let us know if your's went back down (rpm) after you made the adjustments, and how low.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by ron3

I asked the toyota service advisor today and was told it could not be adjusted. He said to just give it more gas. He also said that the reason the motors stalled and shuttered badly at take off was because they had very little low end torque.

It most certainly can be adjusted by chipping away the epoxy and using an allen wrench that fits the tiny screw really tight so that it won't strip the head.

(top center)









...but you might want to first see if you can find out why it idles so low first before you turn it up. A weak dying battery can make a slow idle as the alternator isn't turning fast enough to carry the electrical load without the battery's help.

How old is your battery? Test the voltage under load and see if it's on the way out. Start it up at night and turn on the headlights. How is your idle then. Do the lights go dim?