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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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If it doesn't get better quickly on its own, then clean the throttle body. There is a TSB about rough idle after disconnect where the solution is to clean the carbon deposits from the throttle body.
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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CTScott may be right on the money on this one, my old Rav4 used to do that until I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, but be very careful with the MAF it's pretty delicate!! Worst part on the Rav, was it would actually cause the throttle butterfly to stick making taking off from a stop worse than the FBW hesitation!!
racerb
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 7,606
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Hmm if that did not help, it could be any of the above (MAF, coil pack going, etc. or it could be a fuel issue (dirty injectors, plugged filter).
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#5 |
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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This. I've had rough idle and stumbling acceleration for a few weeks now, with the occasional P0300/P0301/302/303/304 and the odd P0171. Finally got tired of it stalling at intersections and pulled the TB off. Not unreasonably filthy overall, but enough had built up around the rim to prevent it from getting the right amount of air at idle, as well as some sticking when opening/closing. I disconnected everything but the coolant lines because the TB cleaner specifically said NOT to use it on forced induction systems. A few squirts of cleaner and a minute with a shop rag cleaned it right up. Idles just fine now and responds much better to pedal inputs.
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