Warning - Broken control arm bolt!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by esse10

Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.

I thoroughly coated the threads and the washer portion of the head and torqued them to spec.

[barryware]

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by barryware

I changed my bolts today.. Drivers side was a problem.. The rust was so heavy on the bolt, it would not clear the bushing.. I had to back & forth, in & out.. Took about 1/2 hour to get it out. Passenger side was not much of a problem.

Wow! That looks like it would not have lasted through this coming winter.

[barryware]

real glad I visit the forum often and found this thread..

FYI.. When I was at the stealer to buy the bolts.. I brought my letter from Toyota.. I asked if they would check.. They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em.. Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.

The letter extends the warranty to 100K miles.. My car has 97K+ so that is why I figured I would just buy the bolts & replace'em.

And.. 120 (118) foot pounds of torque is a $hit load when you are on your back, tugging on $hit!. Me thinks I'm gonna be sore tomorrow.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by barryware

They said if they are not broke, we won't replace'em

Sounds kinda silly but that is the way of the stealer.:

. I think I'm glad () I was way past the warranty period when I first viewed this thread. Zero chance of being disappointed on that particular score.

[andulong]

Originally Posted by CTScott

90119-14151 is a new part number. It replaces 90119-14126 and 90119-14144.

HI, I am still holding out on replacing these bolts and now more confused than before. I bought the bolts # 14126 and was told that was the proper bolt to use and that it was not an issue with a defective bolt but more with improper drainage causing rust. Then I read the above post. So, now there is a different part number, does anyone know if it is actually a new and improved bolt? Thanks. I just want to do this once and hopefully get it right.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by andulong

HI, I am still holding out on replacing these bolts and now more confused than before. I bought the bolts # 14126 and was told that was the proper bolt to use and that it was not an issue with a defective bolt but more with improper drainage causing rust. Then I read the above post. So, now there is a different part number, does anyone know if it is actually a new and improved bolt? Thanks. I just want to do this once and hopefully get it right.

Toyota often seems to change part numbers, and sometimes with no visible change to the part (it could be something as simple as them changing suppliers for the part and hence revving the part number). I bought some of the 90119-14151 bolts and there does not appear to be any difference in strength rating, plating, etc. with the new part number.

I personally plan on checking (and perhaps replacing) the bolts once per year.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

Is this the one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-9...35e9d7&vxp=mtr

#6 on the diagram

(My car is Canadian, but I guess bolts should be the same)

Thanks

Correct.

[nookandcrannycar]

On 8-24-13 I read (posted that day) Camh's account of the accident (re the control arm bolt breaking) while driving his daughter's low mileage Yaris, and read Hershey's post (got his bolts replaced later that day). I also had a 'Yikes' reaction. I was in Branson, and over the next day or two drove around Table Rock Lake. The roads there are kind of funky. I didn't know if what I was feeling was because of the roads or my Yaris. On my way back to the Interstate, I stopped in Springfield, Missouri to get my oil changed and have the car otherwise looked at on a lift. The tech wrote that one of the motor mounts was worn, but didn't specify which one .

Earlier this month, the bulb went out on the middle of the 3 climate gauges on my Yaris. I had to order the bulb and prepay. Then the light came back on (the wheel is bent via my little cousin's foot when she was 5 ). I decided to ask if I could get a credit for the bulb and get 2 control arm bolts (a bit over 5 dollars when I priced them earlier this year...now a few cents over $8 (more than Kaotic paid in CA). The dealer let me do this. For the last week I've been feeling there must be something wrong, and have been really babying the car. I decided to take it in today (to the shop that did the serp belt, parking brake adjust, etc.) and have them check out the control arms, tie rods, steering rack, the knuckle, all the bushings, etc. and the motor mounts...and then proceed from there. The car had 267,865 miles on it when I drove in.

What a relief! All the above checked out just fine. Tech said the guy in Springfielfd was 'wrong'...likely just trying to get me to spend money. I also had them check the brakes...still good. I then had them replace the control arm bolts with the ones I got (as others on this thread have) from the Toyota dealer and had them torque the bolts to the spec CTScott (IIRC) recommended....I'm glad I did, as they DID have SOME RUST on them.. Given all of this, I thought the 'feeling' I'd been getting must be windier weather and having the tires at 37psi instead of the factory recommended 32psi. The manager felt I might be correct, so I had them put the tires at 32psi.

My total Bill (I almost feel bad as IIRC one person on this thread paid for 1.25 hours of labor for the control arm bolt replacement) $33.08.

The Firestone store where I got my tires is up the street, so I headed up there (slow leak in driver rear tire needed free repair). I could hear the wind around the car, but the lower PSI in the tires made all the difference in the world.

After the tire store, I headed to a brake specific shop to get a better idea on specific % of wear (only thing the first shop wasn't specific on). Still under 40% wear front and back..check=free...at 267,897 miles (was right at 20% wear front and back about 60k miles ago).

P.S. - Factory recommended PSI = Toyota recommendation (not Firestone)

[CTScott]

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I keep forgetting to post that this now includes 2007 to 2012 Yaris per T-SB-0078-12.

The newer TSB no longer specifies VIN range, but rather just says that:

"Some 2007 – 2012 model year Yaris vehicles may exhibit a noise from the front area that is heard under acceleration/deceleration, when braking, or when driving over an uneven road surface. New No. 2 front lower suspension arm bolts are now available to address this condition."

The current bolt part number per the TSB is: 90119-14151

It also mentions that some bolts may have and orange dot on the head and those that do are non-reusable, where ones without the orange dot can be removed and retorqued.

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar

Earlier posts of yours (IIRC) indicated that the old part number ended in 126 (for 2006-2009?) and the other part number (not ending in 151) = for 2010+....and that 151 replaces both part numbers so that the full range = one part number rather than two. When I visited the dealer, the parts rep indicated = exactly as you described (however that was ).

The tech today (at the shop, not the Toyota dealer) had some other reference nomenclature for this bolt, so I just logged on and showed the manager the picture of the bottom of your Yaris with the red circles you put around the two bolt locations. So clear. The manager was then able to easily communicate this to the tech .

I remember noticing, when I picked up the new bolts at the dealer, a 'raised stamp' (forgive the Layman's term ) that I assumed indicated that they each = a 'No. 2'.

The 90119-14151 part number is all inclusive for 07-12 liftbacks and sedans.

The raised markings on the head actually indicate the grade (strength) of the bolt. The "No. 2" is just the name of the bolts relative to their position.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The raised markings on the head actually indicate the grade (strength) of the bolt. The "No. 2" is just the name of the bolts relative to their position.

Oh . Well, I assume all is correct re those bolts on my Yaris. When the manager saw the picture of the underside of your Yaris with the red circles you drew, he said something about that being it..that he could tell from the head of the bolt. I got the old bolts back (in my hands when I left), and driving = .

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

Just got my bolts.. these are HUGE

Do you guys think I would be able to replace these using the ramps like below&?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/pr...l#.Upvx6sSxf1Y

Or shall I high jack each side separately so that there was no load on the wheel?

Thx

I think the ramps would be fine. As you start to loosen the bolt, if you notice that the A arm starts to move away from the chassis, then stop and jack it instead, but I don't think that will be the case.

[CTScott]

OK - This finally got me good. I decided to change the bolts on an 07 LB that I recently bought from someone in Ohio and I barley got the first one out without it snapping (and could not believe how bad it was). The second one snapped with barely any force applied, so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out.

In the meantime, here's a picture of the first one. The pile of stuff next to it came pouring out of its hole, once I removed the bolt.

Control Arm Bolt - Rusted.jpg

[WeeYari]

OMG that is nasty. Now I'm truly scared shitless to see what they look like on my '06. She's now entering her 9th winter.

[NEexpat]

This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."

I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves.

Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor.

One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by NEexpat

This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."

I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves.

Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor.

One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away.

Right now I am thinking that your course of action is the smart one. I sill do not have it out yet. The nut that it screws into is at the top, so drilling up from the bottom to use the bolt extractor will likely result in just snapping the bolt off half way up.

I tried dropping the subframe to give me access to the broken bolt, but that bolt jams the subframe into place, where I can not pry it off of the car. I am now working in the passenger foot well to gain access to the top of the bolt. I realized that the triangular plastic piece under the carpet is in about the correct place for the top of the bolt. Unfortunately the bolt is offset to the hole, where I can see it, but accessing it requires drilling a hole above it.

I drilled a 3/4" access hole directly above it, as I realized with another one of the bolts that a 12mm socket grips the taper of the top of the bolt. Unfortunately though the 12mm pops off when you apply serious torque, so I think my next attempt will be a bolt extractor from above.