Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[tmontague]

Great, thanks

I'm assuming the black wire is the horn wire on the connector you were talking about?

As for the immobilizer is makes a sound like a fuse blowing or something and instantly all power is gone as if the battery is disconnected. The car actually never starts cranking because as soon as you turn the key power goes off. The only thing that allows power again is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then it's back.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Great, thanks

I'm assuming the black wire is the horn wire on the connector you were talking about?

As for the immobilizer is makes a sound like a fuse blowing or something and instantly all power is gone as if the battery is disconnected. The car actually never starts cranking because as soon as you turn the key power goes off. The only thing that allows power again is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then it's back.

Correct on the black wire.

The second part is definitely wrong and is definitely not the immobilizer.

[tmontague]

I just saw your post above about the horn connector, I missed it earlier.

I think it has something to do with too much power going to the ecu and it shutting d power to not incur any damage.

I just checked all my wires. My ignition and my horn were wired wrong. My parking light one was correct on the white (-) wire as I don't have the green wire it is white/black. Not sure as to why the parking lights aren't triggered. I will check the tap as my taps are rated for slightly bigger wires so it takes a little extra time to ensure proper connection.

When I'm back in town in a few days i'll re tap the incorrect wires and purchase some smaller t taps. Hopefully that'll fix the issue.

I recently wired in superspeed horns that must have a lose connector or ground somewhere as they sometimes work and are as of right now not working. The relay clicks so I can tell if the viper is triggering it or not. I'll have to remove the bumper and look at the horn connections once everything is done.

[tmontague]

Just reconnected the 3 wires properly horn now works with the second press of the lock. However my parking lights still are not blinking.

The parking lights do work when switched on, but the key fob does not trigger them to blink. I checked the t taps and they have tapped into the wires properly.

Am I able to tap into the turn signals instead instead the the lights? I'd like to try that since the parking light wires don't seem to be triggering the lights.

Any ideas?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Just reconnected the 3 wires properly horn now works with the second press of the lock. However my parking lights still are not blinking.

The parking lights do work when switched on, but the key fob does not trigger them to blink. I checked the t taps and they have tapped into the wires properly.

Am I able to tap into the turn signals instead instead the the lights? I'd like to try that since the parking light wires don't seem to be triggering the lights.

Any ideas?

Verify that your remote starter is pulling the white wire to ground to flash them. You can do a quick test by simply jumping from the white to one of the white/black wires by sticking a piece of wire into the back of the connector.

[tmontague]

I'll be looking at it again tomorrow.

So if I take a wire like say a paperclip and stick it into the back of the module connector to connect the white wire to a white/black (ground) wire I should see the parking lights switch on correct? I just want to clarify before I go about troubleshooting it tomorrow

Fwiw, the power shut off during start up was due to my not tightening the negative terminal when trying to start it. This caused no issue during light power load but during heav load such as the starter it caused a short and powered everything off.

Same issue is seen with the corroded negative terminal or wire.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I'll be looking at it again tomorrow.

So if I take a wire like say a paperclip and stick it into the back of the module connector to connect the white wire to a white/black (ground) wire I should see the parking lights switch on correct? I just want to clarify before I go about troubleshooting it tomorrow

Fwiw, the power shut off during start up was due to my not tightening the negative terminal when trying to start it. This caused no issue during light power load but during heav load such as the starter it caused a short and powered everything off.

Same issue is seen with the corroded negative terminal or wire.

Correct.

That makes sense on the power-off.

[tmontague]

I disconnected the white connector from the module and stuck a paper clip in the H1/10 and the H1/3 which is a ground for the dome light. Sure enough the parking lights (front and rear) went on.

So I'm assuming that this means that my wiring and taps are obviously fine but there is an issue with the viper module not grounding the parking lights? I'm going to read the instructions and see if I only need a new module that I can then program my fob's to or if that is not possible and I need a module with new fob's as well.

Any other possibilities or things that I could do to fix this? I'm hoping the ebay seller will send me a module free of charge but if this is something that I can fix fairly easy myself to get the module to ground properly then I'd rather just do it myself and save waiting for a new module.

CTScott do you know of a way to fix the module to properly ground?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I disconnected the white connector from the module and stuck a paper clip in the H1/10 and the H1/3 which is a ground for the dome light. Sure enough the parking lights (front and rear) went on.

So I'm assuming that this means that my wiring and taps are obviously fine but there is an issue with the viper module not grounding the parking lights? I'm going to read the instructions and see if I only need a new module that I can then program my fob's to or if that is not possible and I need a module with new fob's as well.

Any other possibilities or things that I could do to fix this? I'm hoping the ebay seller will send me a module free of charge but if this is something that I can fix fairly easy myself to get the module to ground properly then I'd rather just do it myself and save waiting for a new module.

CTScott do you know of a way to fix the module to properly ground?

Viper's quality has seriously gone down hill (in my opinion). I installed a Viper 2 way system last year for my sister and it took three units before everything worked.

[tmontague]

Wow, that's pretty brutal. I just heard back from the seller and he is sending me a whole unit free of charge.

The only down side is the long drive to the border to pick it up. Fingers crossed that everything works okay and it is fully functional.

I plan on making a diy for the keyless entry with some of the info you posted if you're okay with that?

I just figured it's easier for others if all the info is piled in one post versus a fe different sources.

[tmontague]

*EDIT*

Just solved the problem. I somehow missed the small note in the instructions to move the light flash jumper (15A fuse in the module) to the other position. I caught on to this when I dissected the old module and noticed that the connectors on the motherboard from the parking light flash led to that fuse. Something so simple. I'll add it to my DIY

Just received my new module that was sent to me after wasting 3 hrs driving to the border to get it.

It also has the same problem with not grounding the parking lights. I re checked my wiring by jumping it to a negative and the parking lights go on.

CTScott do you have any ideas before I email the seller and rip him a new one for sending me 2 defective modules and wasting my time?
Is it possible that I need to connect to the positive wire for the parking lights as the module is not meant to ground but to supply power?

I just took a look at the module and there are 3 female prongs ofr the 15A fuse that is in the module. Meaning that it has 2 positions that the fuse can be in. I took apart my old module and I'm wondering if I should move the fuse on the module and see if that fixes it?

[maral01]

Hi everyone,

Got a bit of a remote starter mystery here. I have just installed a Viper 5501 2 way remote start system in my 2009 Yaris hb. Alongside, I installed a Fortin EVO-ALL bypass module. My car is a manual and the "brain" haa been programmed accordingly. I've also connected a relay as a bypass for the clutch (bypass activated when the remote starter engages).

Here is the problem: I successfully do the MTS procedure prior to exiting the car and no issues, the vehicle remains on until I shut it off with the remote. When I go to start it back up, all it does is crank the starter but the engine won't start. I tried unplugging the immobilizer bypass module and leaving the key in the ignition to remote start it but no success. I doubled, even triple checked all connections and everything is fine. I also checked all my heavy gauge wires to ensure that all of them had voltage during the startup sequence and I confirmed that everything is fine there.

Has anyone else experienced this kind of issue before? I am really scratching my head on this one....

Update @ 2130hrs: The vehicle will start when I put the key at the "on" position after I pressed on the remote starter button.... If I just leave the key at the off position while trying to remote start, the starter will still crank only, can't get the engine to fire up. Almost sure it must be something with the heavy gauge wiring.... Any ideas?

[govtec]

Hey guys,

I just finished wiring up Clifford 4105x remote start with door lock/unlock in an automatic 07 Hatch with power doors/windows and no immobilizer. Only the door lock/unlock responds to the clifford remote. I can't seem to get remote start/horn/parking lights to work. Any advice?...I wired the system as per the wiring diagram posted by CTScott. I also did the tach learning steps after the installation.

Thanks

[mr_robot]

You don't need to hook it up to the HVAC at all.

Connecting the parking lights is optional, it's just too give you visual confirmation.

The bypass module should handle the ignition and all.


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[mr_robot]

Yes the Yaris has ignition 1 & 2 respectively.


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[Aethelflaed]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I have been getting a lot of questions lately regarding installing remote start on a Yaris, so today I put together a wiring guide for those interested.

Attachment 30944

Hi guys I'm trying to download the instructions but I think the link is dead. Can someone please post a new download link?

[Cherga]

Hey all, new to the forum and new Yaris owner planning to install a Fortin Evo-One. Realizing this thread isn’t very active now but hoping to get some advice regardless. I have an 07 base sedan with remote lock/unlock and no immobilizer. The Evo-One with the Yaris T-harness (Thar-One-Toy2) seems pretty straight forward. Does anyone have any experience with this unit and if so, any “gotchas” or things to watch out for? Thanks!

[Klim86]

Hey Guys,

Im in the middle of installing a Viper 2 way system (4806v). I am stumbling on a few wires, mainly how the parking lights are written and the door input since the viper system is stating I need to have both - and + hooked up since my car is a manual. FWIW, my yaris is an 07/08 sedan, PW/PL, MT, and no immobilizer.

Below is how I have my system hooked up so far. I am struggling with the underlined connections. Thanks in advance for any help! Rich

Main Harness, White 6-pin connector
1 RED (+)12V DC CONSTANT INPUT- Unused fuse location
2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND – Chassis Ground Bolt
3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT – Black wire (Conn D3, Pin 8)
4 WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - #87a NORMALLY CLOSED of onboard relay -White wire (Conn D4, Pin 13) Not confident in location
5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT- #30 COMMON of onboard relay -Not certain where to hook up
6 ORANGE (-) 500 mA (GWA) GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT- Not used

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness, White 24-pin connector
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - Not used
2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - Not used
3 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Not used
4 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT - Not used
5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Not used
6 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not used
7 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not used
8 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not used
9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/O or N/C) -wired to the hood pin provided in kit
10 BLUE* (+) or (-) FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) - Not used
11 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT - Not used
12 VIOLET/WHITE** TACHOMETER INPUT – Beige wire (Conn D15, Pin 9)
13 BLACK/WHITE*** (-) PARKING BRAKE/E-BRAKE INPUT -
14 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Not used
15 GREEN** (-) DOOR INPUT (N/O or N/C) –red wire at 4A-21, but from what I can read in the forums I need link 4A-21, 4A-24, 4A-5, 4A-20 together with (for the information center to work correctly) or without diodes (just to show a door is open)
16 EMPTY ------------------------------------ - Not used
17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not used
18 VIOLET** (+) DOOR INPUT -Struggling with this one. I could have seen somewhere that you mentioned tapping to the pink in conn 4K, pin 2 (I think)
19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT- Not used
20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – Green Wire (Conn A13, Pin 1)
21 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT - Not used
22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not used
23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Not used
24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT- Not used

* This optional input can be connected to the horn circuit (+ or -) in vehicles with factory alarm. When this wire receives input for a minimum of 5 seconds, the system reports a trigger on the 2-way remote.
** Required connection for manual transmission vehicles.
***Connect this wire to the (-) Parking Brake wire in the vehicle (see Owners Guide for manual transmission procedure).

Remote Start, White 8-pin connector
1 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Unused fuse location
2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT #87a key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY – Not used
3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT #30 of FLEX RELAY -Not used
4 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT Unused fuse location
5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT- Black Wire (Conn D8, Pin 7)
6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - White Wire (conn D8, pin 2)
7 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT #87 Unused fuse location
8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT -Green wire (conn D8, Pin1)

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT -Green Wire (Conn GD1, Pin 8)
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT – Brown Wire (Conn GD1, Pin 5)

D2D Harness, Red 4-pin connector (WHOLE CONNECTOR NOT USED)
1 BLUE D2D - TX
2 BLACK (-) GROUND
3 GREEN D2d - RX
4 RED (+) 12V

Bitwriter/Directed SmartStart Harness, Black 3-pin connector (WHOLE CONNECTOR NOT USED)
1 RED (+) 12V
2 ORANGE ESP 2 - RX/TX
3 BLACK (+) 12V