DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation

[bassmannate]

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

[David C]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

Try to read the resistance between the main chassis ground next to the battery and the battery terminal itself, then compare it to the reading you're getting between the ground connection you're using for the stalk and the battery terminal. Subtract the main ground to terminal value to it and that's how much resistance that you should try to reduce. I would assume the ECU has a direct wiring to the battery terminal clamp, but the manufacturer would take for account the resistance in chassis ground when setting the value range for the CC inputs, since the stalk would be connected to chassis (same connection as the horn by connector D3, right ?).

I did the readings on my own setup (I used 2x 2-way rocker switch and connecting my ground to the bolt behind the kick panel under the steering wheel) and had a lot of resistance using that ground point compared to the main chassis ground, but still I have flawless operation so far (installed it and been using it daily for 5 days now).

However I would really doubt that the switch internal resistance of less than 2 ohms would throw every off. It sounds more like a bad contact inside the ON/OFF switch, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use all the other function flawlessly.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

[bassmannate]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

[bassmannate]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

Right but after i get it on, everything works great. I used it from Chicago to St. Louis and back this past weekend to keep pace with traffic.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk