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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Before replacing my belt, I ran the engine and saturated the spinning pulleys with brake cleaner a few times. I didn't really care about the belt as I was changing it. I think the pulleys can get glazed when a belt slips. Cleaning the pulleys may help. I agree with tmontague about finding the loosest tension without slipping. So, if you have squeaking, tighten it a bit, maybe a couple of mm at a time until the squeeking stops under all conditions. Since putting the Continental (former Gatorback) on mine, I haven't had so much as a chirp.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59231 . It was my understanding from reading this thread that these Bando belts from RockAuto are as good as OEM Toyota belts. Regarding why slowly turning the key should matter, see the youtube video in my original post https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRrVMtyIqIY . They theorize, as I say in my original post, that this is due to the onboard computer not having the time to tell the alternator to decrease its loading. Thanks again to everybody. R. Last edited by RMcG; 04-27-2018 at 08:18 PM. |
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| belt, squeeling |
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