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Old 07-20-2018, 11:47 PM   #1
kevinj93
 
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Drives: 2013 NCP130
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Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:09 AM   #2
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
Thanks very much!!! I will do this testing and report back. Cheers!
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:38 AM   #3
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
Once again, Thanks for this. I will be back home in a day or two and will tackle this. If you don't mind, could you clarify a few things for me?

When you say the contacts on the plug, do you mean the end of the wire that comes from the stalk and plugs into the clock spring? If so, is there just two terminals I need to concern myself with? I think the horn wire comes out of that too.

Secondly, Should the readings be different when the stalk button is in the "on" and "off" positions? If so, one position should be 0 ohms. What should it be in the other position?

I really appreciate the help with this.

Adam
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:04 AM   #4
kevinj93
 
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Adam,

You only need to test between the two pine
S in the plug. Ignore the horn wire for this test.

All the switch functions on the stalk are momentary. If the stalk is in its rest postion, you should not see any connection between the pins. You should see a short circuit while pressing the On/Off button, and the other values I mentioned before when operating the stalk to one of the Set/Resume/Cancel positions.

If you can find connector C3 in the steering column, it should have only 2 wires in it, blue and brown. With the ignition swithed on, shorting these 2 wires should turn on or off the cruise control indicator light in the instrument cluster.

Hope you get it working soon. I would be lost without my cruise control.
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:26 AM   #5
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Adam,

You only need to test between the two pine
S in the plug. Ignore the horn wire for this test.

All the switch functions on the stalk are momentary. If the stalk is in its rest postion, you should not see any connection between the pins. You should see a short circuit while pressing the On/Off button, and the other values I mentioned before when operating the stalk to one of the Set/Resume/Cancel positions.

If you can find connector C3 in the steering column, it should have only 2 wires in it, blue and brown. With the ignition swithed on, shorting these 2 wires should turn on or off the cruise control indicator light in the instrument cluster.

Hope you get it working soon. I would be lost without my cruise control.
Thanks! I don't have the indicator light as I opted out of that in the kit. Kinda wishing I'd got that now. When I first looked at this - after the dealer worked on it - I did get around 12 V on the red wire coming out of the clock spring (multimeter probe on the red wire pin and black grounded on teh steering column). I am hoping that that is all that is required to make the clock spring compatible with CC. I fear that my new clockspring does not have the necessary wire for the CC. Not sure if another wire can be run from elsewhere if this clock spring is not compatible.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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