Snapped off an ATF pan bolt - Toyota Yaris Forums

tmontague · 03-01-2019, 01:17 PM

What you did is likely fine, time will tell, just keep an eye in it for leaks.

If not then use a reverse thread drill bit. I've personally had more problems then success with easy outside in small bolts in tough to reach areas. Reverse thread bits typically work well is small diameter bolts.

Bonus if you have a tap to re chase the threads after you've extracted the bolt.

bairjo · 03-01-2019, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmontague

What you did is likely fine, time will tell, just keep an eye in it for leaks.

If not then use a reverse thread drill bit. I've personally had more problems then success with easy outside in small bolts in tough to reach areas. Reverse thread bits typically work well is small diameter bolts.

I didn't mention that i tried a reverse thread bit but it jest destroyed the bolts. That's when i gave up.

It will be 24 hours around 7:30 for the RTV to cure...we shall see.

Thanks guys for your 2 cents on this.

B.B._07 · 03-01-2019, 03:50 PM

Heat is your friend with a stuck bolt, driving the car around to heat up the engine or using a propane torch can make a big difference with stuck fasteners. Easy outs are made of hardened steel so breaking one off is a problem since drilling them out is a lot of work. If drilling it out doesn't work your last resort would be to weld a nut on the broken piece.

Most gasket makers like Permatex recommend 24 hrs but most shops don't have that luxury and don't really have problems with leaks after.

bairjo · 03-01-2019, 07:02 PM

I went ahead just now and filled and ran it down the freeway. All is good for now...i'll post if anything shows up later.

On a related note and a word to the wise... i remember reading threads years ago on here that the Yaris has had some issues when on the freeway when giving it some gas to pass. No not pass gas but gas to pass.

It would shift hard or jerk a little when shifting. At the time it was something that was just accepted as characteristic of the car. I had the same issue with my Yaris. Well, when I did the simple drain and fill a few months back that all went away...i never would have believed that it would make that much difference. So...change you ATF fluid I would say by at least 60,000 miles. My 2010 has 150,000...should have done it sooner.
Again...Thanks to you all for the input.

03-01-2019, 01:17 PM	#1
tmontague View User's Garage Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Caledonia Ont. Posts: 2,938	What you did is likely fine, time will tell, just keep an eye in it for leaks. If not then use a reverse thread drill bit. I've personally had more problems then success with easy outside in small bolts in tough to reach areas. Reverse thread bits typically work well is small diameter bolts. Bonus if you have a tap to re chase the threads after you've extracted the bolt. __________________ No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...

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03-01-2019, 03:50 PM	#3
B.B._07 Drives: 07 5dr Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: YYC Posts: 197	Heat is your friend with a stuck bolt, driving the car around to heat up the engine or using a propane torch can make a big difference with stuck fasteners. Easy outs are made of hardened steel so breaking one off is a problem since drilling them out is a lot of work. If drilling it out doesn't work your last resort would be to weld a nut on the broken piece. Most gasket makers like Permatex recommend 24 hrs but most shops don't have that luxury and don't really have problems with leaks after.

03-01-2019, 07:02 PM	#4
bairjo Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 620	I went ahead just now and filled and ran it down the freeway. All is good for now...i'll post if anything shows up later. On a related note and a word to the wise... i remember reading threads years ago on here that the Yaris has had some issues when on the freeway when giving it some gas to pass. No not pass gas but gas to pass. It would shift hard or jerk a little when shifting. At the time it was something that was just accepted as characteristic of the car. I had the same issue with my Yaris. Well, when I did the simple drain and fill a few months back that all went away...i never would have believed that it would make that much difference. So...change you ATF fluid I would say by at least 60,000 miles. My 2010 has 150,000...should have done it sooner. Again...Thanks to you all for the input.