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Old 05-04-2023, 11:56 PM   #1
sh0rtlife
 
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
2 things i should probably add here as well, the "impact" of bashing a socket onto the head will help break the threads free

secondly the bolt should be TIGHTENED ever so slightly before attempting to loosen it..this will both "stretch" the threads as well as help break it free

as it starts to work its way out and starts tightening back up back off and tighten it again

ie dont just try and crank it out you need to go in out in out in out going a little more out every time but not over doing it


these are the tricks you learn working on stuff more than 50 years old


something else....a solid set of vice grips on the head as well as a cresent wrench on the extractor would be highly reccomended as well, so your not applying all of the force on the extractor

also once you do expose threads spray in some "kroil" if you can ..pb blaster is an ok second choice, once youve got the bolt a good 1/4inch or so out apply antisieze to the threads and work the bolt back in flush an back out a few times re-appplying anti size, the trick here is your working it into the "nut" threads on the body...after that you should be able to get it out without much issue

FWIW i had the EXACT same problem on the driver rear seat rear most bolt and paid hell getting it out due to a lack of working space..i actualy found it benificial to chissle the edges off the head so i could remove the seat bracket and get a better bite on the bolt
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Old 05-05-2023, 12:32 AM   #2
MyBlueYar
 
Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
2 things i should probably add here as well, the "impact" of bashing a socket onto the head will help break the threads free


secondly the bolt should be TIGHTENED ever so slightly before attempting to loosen it..this will both "stretch" the threads as well as help break it free

as it starts to work its way out and starts tightening back up back off and tighten it again

ie dont just try and crank it out you need to go in out in out in out going a little more out every time but not over doing it


these are the tricks you learn working on stuff more than 50 years old


something else....a solid set of vice grips on the head as well as a cresent wrench on the extractor would be highly reccomended as well, so your not applying all of the force on the extractor

also once you do expose threads spray in some "kroil" if you can ..pb blaster is an ok second choice, once youve got the bolt a good 1/4inch or so out apply antisieze to the threads and work the bolt back in flush an back out a few times re-appplying anti size, the trick here is your working it into the "nut" threads on the body...after that you should be able to get it out without much issue

FWIW i had the EXACT same problem on the driver rear seat rear most bolt and paid hell getting it out due to a lack of working space..i actualy found it benificial to chissle the edges off the head so i could remove the seat bracket and get a better bite on the bolt

OK, quick update before I wrap it up for tonight. I managed to get a crescent wrench on the extractor to back it out, which it did, but snapped the extractor in half and probably irreparably damaged the bolt head at the same time.

I've worked on plenty of cars, and this is the first time I've had a seat bolt be this badly stuck. At any rate, I'm really in a mess now, with the integrity of the head bolt gone.

I appreciate all the input from you guys - I know on paper all your suggestions should have easily served to get this bolt out, but I guess it's a reminder that real life sometime serves us up a big can of surprise and frustration.

Here's a close up to give you an idea of the carnage -
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