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Old 05-06-2022, 02:06 AM   #19
tigerpaw
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbiini View Post
90915-yzzj3 filter also fits yaris and flows better.
How does it flow better,how would you even know?
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Old 05-11-2022, 07:08 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mitch9521 View Post
I exclusively run Mobil 1 full synthetic(No dino crap) in my vehicles. Usually change the Yaris around 4-5k miles and my F150 around 3k cause it sits alot.

WIX is top notch, ive actually switched to their filters exclusively now.
I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT
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Old 05-11-2022, 07:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Calrenman View Post
I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT
As would any sane person. lol
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Old 10-18-2022, 03:50 PM   #22
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I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.
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Old 10-19-2022, 12:41 PM   #23
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theres a few benifits from a bigger filter "if" you can fit one..im not talking just longer, but overall larger, and the trick here is digging thru the books and finding one with the same thread pitch a gasket size

more oil capacity, more surface area for improved flow, a nice big can that helps cool the oil a little bit
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Old 10-30-2022, 03:47 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
i have proof in the form of experience, cars coming in the dealership that have been maintained with aftermarket parts compared to oem just have more issues, plain and simple, a good example is i had a tacoma with a fram filter and they came in with drivability and intermittent misfires concern, oh hey, take a wild guess, the camshaft gear strainer was clogged full of debris that the oil filter was clearly ignoring, pulled apart that oil filter and the actual filter wasnt even retaining its round structure, it was "folded" so to say inside the filter housing, total garbage parts that could quite literally ruin your engine.
I did an apprenticeship in automotive parts and every year we cut open all the brands we could sources oil filters of the same part number.

As a result i will only install Ryco or Wix filters on my cars with a preference to Ryco. They always had by far the best quality filter spring and internal can design. Frams were ALWAYs the worst with them often being rusty inside as new...mmm rust particles on the filtered side of your filter flowing into your engine!

Wix and ryco were always pretty much on par. Everything else is rubbish as far as aftermarket filters go.

I watched a thing on air filters and wix and ryco won for air filters as well with the most particles removed, I'd say this is also true of their fuel filters.
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Old 05-17-2023, 01:49 AM   #25
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Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP

Large oil filters for 2015 Yaris hatchback.

I have used both and prefer the Wix.

3/4 inlet (center) Threads unknown matched by sight and comparison.

Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP


Quote:
Originally Posted by Neinris View Post
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.
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Old 05-17-2023, 01:54 AM   #26
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Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP

I have used these larger filters without incident!

Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP

Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
theres a few benifits from a bigger filter "if" you can fit one..im not talking just longer, but overall larger, and the trick here is digging thru the books and finding one with the same thread pitch a gasket size

more oil capacity, more surface area for improved flow, a nice big can that helps cool the oil a little bit
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Old 05-17-2023, 05:50 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calrenman View Post
I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT
My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.
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Last edited by bronsin; 05-17-2023 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 05-17-2023, 06:35 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mitch9521 View Post
As would any sane person. lol
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Old 05-17-2023, 12:42 PM   #29
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FWIW
the wix "xp" filters have more filter material in them with the design specificly to flow more oil thru, they are ment to only be ran with synth....spoke with a rep in great detail about them..its something like 1 extra pleat for every 2 in the filter...the idea is to add 1/3rd more surface area for filtering and allow more oil to flow thru them faster
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Old 05-18-2023, 01:59 AM   #30
Calrenman
 
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Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.
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Old 05-18-2023, 02:11 AM   #31
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I never spoke to a rep but I think it is stated on the box. It is cool that you were able to speak to a rep.

The filters I Noted are also close to an inch, inch and a half deeper than stock filters.

I have always run Larger filters (via cross referencing inlet since and OD Gasket size since my first 350 chevy. I would run the two quart filters and a deep sump oil pan on a short bed half ton Van. The van had some head work, headers, intake, carb and full MSD ignition. It ran like a scalded gorilla!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
FWIW
the wix "xp" filters have more filter material in them with the design specificly to flow more oil thru, they are ment to only be ran with synth....spoke with a rep in great detail about them..its something like 1 extra pleat for every 2 in the filter...the idea is to add 1/3rd more surface area for filtering and allow more oil to flow thru them faster
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Old 05-18-2023, 11:55 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calrenman View Post
I never spoke to a rep but I think it is stated on the box. It is cool that you were able to speak to a rep.

The filters I Noted are also close to an inch, inch and a half deeper than stock filters.

I have always run Larger filters (via cross referencing inlet since and OD Gasket size since my first 350 chevy. I would run the two quart filters and a deep sump oil pan on a short bed half ton Van. The van had some head work, headers, intake, carb and full MSD ignition. It ran like a scalded gorilla!
i did the same on my mopars, forgive my only remembering the fram numbers, but the ph43 and the ph8a are IDENTICAL bases, the 8 being almost 3x the size of the 43...mind you on my a-body barracudas the 8 only fit if i axed the 90deg OE adaptor, but on my trucks and van the 8 was no big deal..for referance the 8 is your standard for filter while the 43 isnt much bigger than our yaris filters
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Old 05-18-2023, 12:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calrenman View Post
Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!
ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway
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Old 05-24-2023, 04:27 AM   #34
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Before the valve burned my compression was high normal before the oil test to check the rings with little Slight raise after the ring test.

The motor in the Geo had 100 k on it. My V8s ised to smooth at certain place in the cylinder I think it was top and bottom center and outsid but I ran the piss out of those moters (350 chevy).
Toyota is not what they were in the 90 or early 2000s. Sorry you were burned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway
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Old 05-24-2023, 03:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calrenman View Post
Before the valve burned my compression was high normal before the oil test to check the rings with little Slight raise after the ring test.

The motor in the Geo had 100 k on it. My V8s ised to smooth at certain place in the cylinder I think it was top and bottom center and outsid but I ran the piss out of those moters (350 chevy).
Toyota is not what they were in the 90 or early 2000s. Sorry you were burned.
funny enough, theres a post on the carnage in here, but after cleaning it out, swapping the vvt, chain and guides, its quieter than its EVER been and runs perfect...but im still getting shavings in the oil so i question its life span...sad its only got about 120k on it
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Old 05-26-2023, 09:20 AM   #36
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That sucks!

I have no "shinies" when I inspect oil after a change. I hope it works out for you. Try changing the filter again, Maybe it is a brake in or defective filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
funny enough, theres a post on the carnage in here, but after cleaning it out, swapping the vvt, chain and guides, its quieter than its EVER been and runs perfect...but im still getting shavings in the oil so i question its life span...sad its only got about 120k on it
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