DC Sports Header install and evaluation - Page 10 - Toyota Yaris Forums

tooter · 12-03-2012, 01:14 AM

The inside diameter of stock 2012 header runners is 28mm and the Weapon R's are 36mm...

NJ Drive · 12-03-2012, 04:18 PM

So perhaps the Weapon R is the closest port-matched of the two considering the amount of soot on the OEM. Anyone have an I.D. of an exhaust port?

xnamerxx · 12-03-2012, 04:49 PM

I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

NJ Drive · 12-03-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

Thanks. I have to be honest- the more I gather reading about 'bolt-on' solutions, I'd rather buy one of yours, assuming you find appreciable gains. I don't doubt that you will.

I intend to run a single hi-flow with a Burns muffler anyway, so might as well do it right.

xnamerxx · 12-03-2012, 07:58 PM

I was once told by a GM engineer that the absolute best solution and absolute worse solution for exhaust is generally only a few % different. I've taken this advice to heart knowing the expected gains and losses can only be so much.

I do expect gains but the dyno and racing will be the true test if it actually works, I have simulation numbers, but those aren't always accurate to the real world.

If you want an easy/cheap solution ots parts work, but have the same design constraints production parts have, so you won't get the "best" solution. I can tell you this I noticed a significant loss of low-mid-range torque with the DC header while getting a size-able gain in topend torque. If you look at my dynosheet you can see that the DC produces a sizeable dip between 2700-3800 rpm, it feels really gutless out of slower corners but nice up top.

4/20 NEVER FORGET · 12-03-2012, 08:39 PM

I have to defend the DC header, as I think it's been the single best bolt-on since I started messing with this car.

First mod was a K&N typhoon intake, other than more engine noise, I didn't feel much change.

Second mod was the DC header. I noticed no mid-range torque loss and a noticeable change to the way the top end acted. The engine breathed better in the top end, instead of running out of steam before redline like before. The power across the board seems more linear. Despite the cost I would recommend the header.

Last engine mod I've done is a resonator-back obx exhaust. I didn't really notice any seat of the pants change from this.

Now with these mods the car is easier to drive. It's surprising torquey in 5th gear, I don't have to downshift to 4th gear any more when going up hills on the highway, even with passengers. It still doesn't have the top end that my Honda cars had, which it probably never will. It pulls really well in the 3000-5500 range though for a 1.5L. Overall I'm happy with the mods, I/H/E are worth it in my opinion.

cali yaris · 12-04-2012, 12:58 PM

^ Good luck, and congrats on vacation time!

tooter · 12-04-2012, 03:16 PM

Do show us pics of your project, and jack up the front of the car. It makes getting to the headpipe bolts sooo much easier from the bottom.

Golddeenoh · 12-04-2012, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

^Tooter: I am pretty sure you can do the whole thing without jacking a car - you just need to be a giant octopus

^best answer ever.

tooter · 12-04-2012, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

^Tooter: I am pretty sure you can do the whole thing without jacking a car - you just need to be a giant octopus

I already did. Having the front of the car up helped make it easier... and I need all the help I can get.

JustDidIt · 12-05-2012, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

some pics
all crap moved to the trunk while working on the header

Off Topic, But liked your JL sub setup. Pretty cool. Can you PM me a link or do you have more pictures of your install?

DJYojimbo · 12-09-2012, 10:53 PM

I know this header is ceramic so there's no need to wrap it right?

xnamerxx · 12-09-2012, 10:56 PM

DO NOT WRAP A HEADER!!! wrap is bad avoid it, it holds moisture and increases corrosion. Its coated leave it as is.

DJYojimbo · 12-09-2012, 11:01 PM

Thank You for the advice

*tk-421* · 09-27-2013, 04:11 PM

Possible? Sure.
PITA? Definitely.

WeeYari · 09-27-2013, 05:23 PM

The flange bolts from header to downpipe are only accessible from below. I don't know about you, but personally I cannot fit under the car if not raised.

tooter · 09-29-2013, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkfwlr

I'm thinking to drive the front of the car on a curb just enough, so it would be sitting over the concrete, on the grass. Then I can slide underneath and hopefully reach the bolts still. Or is there a reason why this is flawed ?
Won't be on grass, just concrete. Going to do tomorrow morning.

That's a very clever idea!

If you can, post some pics of your installation.

Greg

Neurotic Hapi Snak · 10-07-2013, 09:27 PM

Is there a reason you don't put the heat shield back on? You'd think you'd want to, to keep your engine bay cool and exhaust header hot.

12-04-2012, 12:58 PM	#169
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	^ Good luck, and congrats on vacation time! __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

09-27-2013, 04:11 PM	#177
tk-421 Super Moderator View User's Garage Drives: 5D-07-LB Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dagobah Posts: 4,262	Possible? Sure. PITA? Definitely. __________________ --[ FORUM RULES ]--[ SEARCHING TIPS ]--[ EYELIDS PICS ]--[ RBK SPOILER ]--[ BEST/WORST INVESTMENTS ]--

09-27-2013, 05:23 PM	#178
WeeYari View User's Garage Drives: 06 5dr LE (deceased), 13 Soul Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,827	The flange bolts from header to downpipe are only accessible from below. I don't know about you, but personally I cannot fit under the car if not raised. __________________

12-03-2012, 01:14 AM	#163
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,962	The inside diameter of stock 2012 header runners is 28mm and the Weapon R's are 36mm...

12-03-2012, 04:18 PM	#164
NJ Drive Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 179	So perhaps the Weapon R is the closest port-matched of the two considering the amount of soot on the OEM. Anyone have an I.D. of an exhaust port?

12-03-2012, 04:49 PM	#165
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

12-03-2012, 07:58 PM	#167
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	I was once told by a GM engineer that the absolute best solution and absolute worse solution for exhaust is generally only a few % different. I've taken this advice to heart knowing the expected gains and losses can only be so much. I do expect gains but the dyno and racing will be the true test if it actually works, I have simulation numbers, but those aren't always accurate to the real world. If you want an easy/cheap solution ots parts work, but have the same design constraints production parts have, so you won't get the "best" solution. I can tell you this I noticed a significant loss of low-mid-range torque with the DC header while getting a size-able gain in topend torque. If you look at my dynosheet you can see that the DC produces a sizeable dip between 2700-3800 rpm, it feels really gutless out of slower corners but nice up top.

12-03-2012, 08:39 PM	#168
4/20 NEVER FORGET Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 100	I have to defend the DC header, as I think it's been the single best bolt-on since I started messing with this car. First mod was a K&N typhoon intake, other than more engine noise, I didn't feel much change. Second mod was the DC header. I noticed no mid-range torque loss and a noticeable change to the way the top end acted. The engine breathed better in the top end, instead of running out of steam before redline like before. The power across the board seems more linear. Despite the cost I would recommend the header. Last engine mod I've done is a resonator-back obx exhaust. I didn't really notice any seat of the pants change from this. Now with these mods the car is easier to drive. It's surprising torquey in 5th gear, I don't have to downshift to 4th gear any more when going up hills on the highway, even with passengers. It still doesn't have the top end that my Honda cars had, which it probably never will. It pulls really well in the 3000-5500 range though for a 1.5L. Overall I'm happy with the mods, I/H/E are worth it in my opinion.

12-04-2012, 03:16 PM	#170
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,962	Do show us pics of your project, and jack up the front of the car. It makes getting to the headpipe bolts sooo much easier from the bottom.

12-09-2012, 10:53 PM	#174
DJYojimbo Drives: 2012 Grey Toyota Yaris SE Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Chicago Posts: 261	I know this header is ceramic so there's no need to wrap it right?

12-09-2012, 10:56 PM	#175
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	DO NOT WRAP A HEADER!!! wrap is bad avoid it, it holds moisture and increases corrosion. Its coated leave it as is.

12-09-2012, 11:01 PM	#176
DJYojimbo Drives: 2012 Grey Toyota Yaris SE Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Chicago Posts: 261	Thank You for the advice

10-07-2013, 09:27 PM	#180
Neurotic Hapi Snak Drives: 2011 Yaris 3dr Join Date: May 2013 Location: MN Posts: 39	Is there a reason you don't put the heat shield back on? You'd think you'd want to, to keep your engine bay cool and exhaust header hot.