I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[kou]

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alrighty, rough draft of my install guide is done. It's a LONG read, but should be an interesting one.

Anybody that has some time available - read it and give me feedback please.

I'm also working on a pre-install guide that includes hooking up some gauges, the AEM FIC, apexi turbo timer, and anything else that comes to mind.

Also - the install guide is a .docx. I changed the extension because YarisWorld wouldn't let me upload a .docx? So if it doesn't open, change the extension. Obviously, you need Word 2007 as well.

Videos and more pictures... Expect them tomorrow.

[Nexus1155]

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

[PETERPOOP]

Congrats! You did what most people wouldn't and couldn't do (including me)! Dyno that puppy and upload some videos.:)

[Yoda]

woot happy for you man GOOD JOB!!!!

[why?]

lol, welcome to the joys of a turbo car. Just make sure there is enough oil and coolant, and enjoy!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

Yeah word really was a poor choice, I really wanted to embed the pictures but it was a nightmare... Probably gonna make a PDF or something. The guide will be going to zage, but I'm going to post it up here as well. I'm hoping with a guide that's super in depth, maybe it'll sway some people to take the plunge like I did. It's much more reassuring to do something you know that has been done successfully... and nerve-racking when you're the one entering the uncharted waters first.
Really though, how many turbocharged Yaris' are there in the states currently with me included, five?

Also, thanks a lot for the cheers of joys guys, but apparently I'm not quite there yet...

Was driving to work today, oil idiot light started flashing and then stayed on, accompanied by a CEL. I'm still leaking oil BAD. Had to stop and buy 4 quarts of oil. Immediately threw 2 in. Had to throw the third in on the way home. Hopefully I was prompt enough in dealing with it. I was watching my oil pressure closely and was getting worried... sure enough.

So, it's time to stop beating around the bush and deal with this the right way. I have all day available to me tomorrow, so the turbo + downpipe will be coming out.

This time around, I'll seal the banjo bolt + washers, return flange, return gasket, return bolts, etc. with silicone sealant. I really should have done this the first time around, but I had no idea this was going to happen. Will also inject the turbo with the crappy oil I had to buy and look for leaks. If anyone else has any other ideas or thinks silicone is going to suck for this use, let me know immediately.

On the positive side, I was able to (hopefully) drive this thing without doing any damage, so it'll be a lot easier to be patient now. I still can't even begin to describe how much fun it is to drive this car. I swear, everytime I see the needle on my boost gauge pass the 0, I get such a huge smile lol. Between my exhaust and turbo, the noise and feeling when you hit the throttle.. is intoxicating

On a side note, I felt it was time to change my ride details.

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds awsome. Congrats Jerzy you got the jump on me. My pocket book is holding me back right know and Im currently looking for someone to weld up my stainless steel down pipe.
That banjo fitting shouldnt need any sealent. Their should be one copper washer on each side on the bajo. For a total of two. These washers get squeezed when tightening down the bolt and the washers get slightly deformed to make a perfect seal between the banjo bolt, banjo line and your turbo. This line is under 60 psi of oil pressure. Thats what most toyota's put out. Their is no silicone or jb weld in the world that will seal that.
Make sure their is one copper washer between the line and the top of the bolt and one between the line and the turbo. This line should be snug and not crazy tight! If the washers are to deformed or squeezed out of place they will not seal.
Also make sure the threads in the turbo and the bolt are not cross threaded or stripped. If the washers do not look like washers anymore because they have been overly squeezed, replace them. Make sure you buy copper washers from a decent auto parts store. Steel washers will not work. These copper washers also seal the brakes lines on your car. They hold over 1000 psi. So if its done right they will hold that 60 psi of oil with no problems and no sealent. Not to sound like a ass, but i have been a mechanic for a long time at several different dealer ships. Please throw out that JB weld. Its whats called a temperary fix to a permanent problem. Its time consuming and a pain in the ass to remove the turbo and check all this shit but you will be so happy when you can cruise all over and not worry about oil leaks.
Best of luck Jerzy. I also want to see a video of this thing trowing down some rubber for insperation.

[stevethegimp]

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by stevethegimp

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

Yes some silicone rtv sealent is a good idea on the return line gasket. And check to see if that bajo bolt cracked as well. It is not as stong as a regular bolt because it has been holowed out to allow oil to flow through it.

[Nexus1155]

I don't know if theres any silicone that will handle the heat back on the turbo.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I just got the banjo bolt off and have no idea why it was leaking. Crush washers aren't deformed, banjo bolt isn't cracked... Could it be I just didn't have it tight enough? It seems so unlikely, because before taking it off I tried tightening it first and it just wasn't happening.

I'll update when I get the return flange off. Chiseling off JB Weld takes a good deal of time.

[pimp my yaris]

That realy sucks, I thought U would have found something obvious. If it were me I would try switching the copper washers and retry it. Watch that thing like a hawk with plenty of light and see exactly where the oil starts to leak. When you thread the bolt into the turbo without the line and washers, does it go easily? Or does it bind up? Mabe the thread pitch is wrong on the bolt. Thread pitch is the number of threads per. mm or inch. Mabe the bolt is stoping before the washers get tight. I allready ran into this problem with a oil line kit for my turbo. Report back

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah the washers are only very slightly chipped on the outer edge from where I was using a chisel, so no big deal. I honestly think they needed to be tighter. The way I had it earlier was such that the banjo fitting was still able to rotate with some force applied. I took the turbocharger apart so I could more readily get a wrench around the banjo bolt and tightened it a turn or two more.

The return flange is.. eh. I couldn't tell if there was a problem, mainly because I don't know what to look for. I'll be replacing the paper gasket, and using silicone on the bolts. I'll also start off by tightening it a little less...

The nice thing is, since everything is now installed, I can just put the turbo assembly on the engine block and attach the feed and return lines, then crank the engine. This will make it MUCH easier to spot any and all leaks.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The return line runs very close to the axle. I was looking at it earlier and it sheared some of the steel braided line. The inner liner is untouched and appears to not be leaking. Since it's the return line, I'll be leaving it for now and designing a bracket to keep it AWAY from the axle.

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds like your getting it under control. I would put some silicone on that return line gasket too. As long as their is coolant going through the turbo it should staw cool enough to work. Make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and smooth. Free of jb weld and chisel marks. Good luck and lets see a video!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Update: Turbocharger is back in and I just started the car. I'm not really sure what to think now.

There appears to be a small amount of oil coming from the return elbow on the pan - that's an easy fix. However, I noticed there was a drop of oil on the downpipe flange and where the downpipe connects to the exhaust... How could that have got there? My huge concern now is that for some reason, oil is finding it's way into the exhaust... Because upon starting the engine, I had a ton of white smoke that has yet to dissipate. It's in the engine bay AND coming out of the exhaust. Granted, I did just wrap the downpipe and turbo with exhaust wrap, but why would it be coming out the exhaust as well? Thoughts please

Edit: Just read this usually means the seals are shot... Please tell me this isn't true... HOW could it be true?

[Nexus1155]

Did you end up repriming the turbo? how long were you running it for.