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Old 07-08-2012, 06:57 PM   #1999
sqcomp
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That proposed hole is VERY close to the glass...that's the challenge. Know that the hole is only the size of a tweeter. Can a right angle adaptor give enough torque to drive a hole saw?

The dremel idea may be the best at the moment.

:) whadyamean you can't angle a sawzall in there?!? :)
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:19 PM   #2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqcomp View Post
That proposed hole is VERY close to the glass...that's the challenge. Know that the hole is only the size of a tweeter. Can a right angle adaptor give enough torque to drive a hole saw?

The dremel idea may be the best at the moment.

:) whadyamean you can't angle a sawzall in there?!? :)
well aslong as there is no glass directly behind you're proposed hole, drill a centered pilot hole, and the hole saw will stay perfectly on line.. Ive seen one drift when dont that way..

But i get the hesitation.. I guess the dremel probably is the way you would wanna go..

And if you do try the sawzall, please get it on video!!!! haha
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:11 PM   #2001
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Some thing like a hole saw mentioned above is what I had in mind, Yes a dremel may be the power tool, now because of the angle of the a-pillar the dremel will not be exactly perpendicular to the cut, I hope that would not be an issue.

I'll stop by tomorrow at the local store and see if I can find a hole saw that fits the size of the hole that I need.

Thanks

D.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:45 AM   #2002
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It's not the bit I'm concerned with in using a hole saw that close to the glass...

If you think a dremel is too big, a drill body is massive...one needs to get the hole saw bit straight on just like the dremel. Can you squeeze yourself into a good place on that dash to hit the pillar straight on with either option?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #2003
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I hate drilling into metal...
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Last edited by sqcomp; 07-09-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:23 PM   #2004
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I hate drilling into metal...
Me too! I'm going to confirm that in a few minutes!


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Old 07-10-2012, 01:06 AM   #2005
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And if you do try the sawzall, please get it on video!!!! haha

I did it! I did it!


Video1:*It was so easy that I took my phone for a video!




Video 2: Without holding my cell phone for video I could probably have done it in less than half of the time..



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Old 07-10-2012, 01:23 AM   #2006
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OK, this was so EASY, just like a hot knife on butter! best $15 bucks spent.

Now I have left tweeter as far forward and far to the left I possible can! I gain 5 inches and that's a lot! the distance from my left ear to tweeter now is 48" it used to be 43".

Stage is wider and deeper already!
Probably 5 inches sound meaningless, but you should hear the difference that it makes.

Picture 1: the a-pillar after cutting the metal




Picture 2: Tweeter in place! NICE! I'm happy.



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Old 07-10-2012, 06:41 AM   #2007
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What about the aiming? Looks like its down at the dash....
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:49 AM   #2008
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The aiming axis at that point will only have a minor effect. The gain Derick has from physical location is going to override the angle for the most part. What I'm going to be interested to see is how the mounting is integrated with the a pillar.

I see that mount is deep...really deep in there. What say you Derick? This may be a good experiment for horn loading...
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:52 AM   #2009
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Sand down those edges on that metal, run that wire...are you going to surround the mounting hole with some deadening to reduce resonances? How's the tweeter going to be mounted?
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #2010
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Quote:
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What I'm going to be interested to see is how the mounting is integrated with the a pillar.

I see that mount is deep...really deep in there. What say you Derick? This may be a good experiment for horn loading...

Yeah me too! I'm thinking about cutting a big section (hole) in the lower part of the a-pillar and build up a big open horn shape from the tweeter's base to the opening of the a-pillar, I'm not sure how to accomplish that, but I'll dig into it.

D.



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Sand down those edges on that metal, run that wire...are you going to surround the mounting hole with some deadening to reduce resonances? How's the tweeter going to be mounted?

Yes will deaden the area, I will use a thin sheet of wood/balsa wood or even MLV as baffle into the metal.

D.


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Old 07-11-2012, 08:48 PM   #2011
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Baffling into the metal...I wish I could be out there with you to help. I think between the two of us we could make this happen REALLY quickly.

*sigh*

Using some substrate you can drill into using the L1v2's mounting holes. I'm thinking even a 1/4" pan head would be fine and not kick too far into the metal depending on the thickness of the substrate.

I'd say make a couple rings out of balsa that are juuuuusssst slightly larger than the outer diameter of the tweeter and then reverse the technique we've used to make the original pillars. Build in instead of out.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:38 PM   #2012
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........and then reverse the technique we've used to make the original pillars. Build in instead of out.

Thoughts?
You read my mind!

D.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:24 PM   #2013
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Kind of a speaker mounted in a funnel. Interesting.....Hey, what about using a funnel! lol
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:26 PM   #2014
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By angleing the cut on the material you could still aim it a bit if needed. If nothing else it would be a cheap way to experiment.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:27 PM   #2015
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Would it have a megaphone effect though if not treated or coated....
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:32 PM   #2016
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Hilser Funnel in process... kind of!

pictures of the cut out section soon...




Hilser Funnel


D.


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