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03-27-2010, 02:35 PM | #199 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Nice! I'm always glad to hear the success stories. |
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03-27-2010, 02:39 PM | #200 |
Drives: '07 Yaris 3DRH Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 46
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CTScott I have the +Res wired per the scematic I put above. Tested and it disconnects the Cruise. I had to use 2 - 120 resistors. Should those be 120K resistors to get 240? I have 120's and 120K's
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03-27-2010, 03:19 PM | #201 |
Drives: '07 Yaris 3DRH Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 46
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DIY Cruise with +/-
Here is a pic of what I have now.
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03-27-2010, 03:28 PM | #202 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Wow, that's one blurry picture!
OK. You are close - It's two 120's not 120K's (which would be 120,000), so you have the correct values. The problem is that they are in parallel instead of series. They need to be end to end to make 240, not side by side. |
03-27-2010, 05:00 PM | #203 |
Drives: '07 Yaris 3DRH Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 46
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Got it...Re-did them putting them in Series, and all works great now, I thought that was what I did wrong but wasn't sure. Thanks again CTScott 'You da man'!!!!!
Now what should my next Mod be??? |
04-04-2010, 02:09 AM | #204 |
Drives: My 1st Toyota Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3
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ECM A21-40 12V?
Hi guys,
Im trying to install cruise controls for my Yaris (Automatic Transmission) and would like to get some advice from the experts here before proceeding with my DIY: My ECM A21-40 has a 12V with ignition on. So now all i need to do is to connect the cruise control stalk CCS pin to A21-40 and ECC pin to ground correct? Do i need to do any other modifications for cruise control to work? Thanks!! |
04-04-2010, 08:29 AM | #205 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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04-04-2010, 10:34 PM | #206 |
Drives: My 1st Toyota Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3
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Hi Scotts, Thank you so much for your reply. But im puzzle about another thing. If referring to the cruise control switch schematic, turning cruise control ON-OFF will short ECM Pin40 12V to ground. Will I then damage my ECM by doing this since it is outputing a 12V? And ECM Pin40 is an input or output port? Thanks! |
04-05-2010, 06:50 AM | #207 |
One more CC done! Thanks to CTScott and all who contributed. A suggestion if you have the TB upgrade: you will need to disconnect the battery while doing this DIY so the ECM resets. Only disconnecting the one plug causes the initial ocillation to return. For some reason it won't learn until you completely reset the ECM.
I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you. Thanks again CTScott. This was the only thing my car was missing.
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04-05-2010, 07:01 AM | #208 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
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Quote:
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04-05-2010, 05:26 PM | #209 |
Drives: '07 Yaris 3DRH Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 46
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I too have a few of the 680 ohm resistors that I can donate to someone looking to do the 2 button setup. I also have some 120 ohms too if someone wants to do the 3 button setup like I did. PM me your address and I can send them out to you.
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04-08-2010, 10:56 AM | #210 | |
Drives: VIOS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 42
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Quote:
i see this post on opening the ECM. If i dc the battery, how do i measure the 12V? http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&highlight=ECM very very sorry for asking a noob question...i have a DVM with me but dunno which wire/connector i need to measure to make sure my car having cruise control function...hope can get some help ...thanks.. |
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04-08-2010, 11:15 AM | #211 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
You can stick a pin through the rubber plug in that pin location of the ECM connector to take the measurement. Based on others experience, I don't believe that your car's ECM will have the cruise control functionality. |
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04-08-2010, 07:38 PM | #212 |
Drives: VIOS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 42
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really?..too bad then..if so, i will not bother to check the ECM voltage then..:(..thanks scott..
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04-12-2010, 07:41 PM | #213 |
Drives: Yaris HB Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central Alabama, GOD BLESS AMERICA
Posts: 755
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YAAY! It worked! It was even quite easy. The soldering with a barely warm over-sized soldering iron was the only tedious part, and getting the ECU connector apart proved harder than it needed to be because I pushed the little rubber piece in instead of out first...
My wiring, routing and resistors and stuff looks really amateurish, but whatever, so long as it works and doesn't catch on fire, and as long as nobody from Toyota sees it :) To the guy with the picture of the 4-way switch installed in the switch place between the seats... good job! You made it look good, and I don't know how, because I could not get the switch to fit there without cutting into the panel and molest the empty switch cover. Clutch Switch $23 ECU wire (made installation a lot easier, I routed this short wire into the grommet right behind the ECU, and spliced it to the switch wire behind the glove box, super easy). $17. 4-way switch $22. Total: $62, and about 4 hours of fiddling. |
04-16-2010, 03:32 PM | #214 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009
Location: So Cal.
Posts: 100
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Where does everyone get this "repair connector", is it a toyota only product, ior can I get it at Radio Shack? Is there a part number, what is the proper name. I have the car torn apart now, and dont just want to shove the wire into pin 40 hole. Thanks for any help..
BTW there is NO WAY this is a 45 minute DIY...but so far so good. OK never mind did a better search and found, looks like another trip to the toyota dealer, yeah! OK, went to the dealer, $15 bucks!!!!?? No f'ing way! And they would have to order it. So back to Radio Shack, had to buy 5 different 1/4 watt resistors to make up the required combinations, having to use 2 to 3 resistors in series. I check them with my multi-tester, most of them show no value, even the new ones I did use, about 25% show the correct value within 5%...WTF? So I have the switch panel wired, but cannot read values on most of the resistors, some I can read but I have to switch to 2k or 20k, but most of the rest still read zero continuity. Im frustrated to say the least. Last edited by Henry G.; 04-16-2010 at 07:15 PM. |
04-17-2010, 07:00 PM | #215 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009
Location: So Cal.
Posts: 100
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Well made some progress, close to getting it working. Should have worn my glasses, I bought 22k and 100k resistors instead of 22 and 100 ohm. Went back to Radio Shack where I am practically on a first name basis now with the employees, got the $12.99 500 pack, so I will have a bunch to give away when the job is done. Tried to unsolder the wrong resistors out of the loops, and melted one of the micro NO switches. Looks like I will be rebuilding my switch pad from scratch, not going back into town again today.
On the up side, got a wire, folded over twice and soldered to fit into pin 40 on the ecm harness, with a confirmed 12+ volts so it seated. I routed the wire through the heater hose/tube grommet, very soft and pliable, taping the wire to a coat hanger and carefully working it through worked. Same for the clutch switch wires. I used small terminals which stuffed quite nicely down into the fuse block connections for clutch wires where the jumper goes, worked good. I will post pics tomorrow AFTER I get more switches and get this SOB working. Just a few observations and suggestions which may or may not have been mentioned along the way: Remove the ECM for the firewall, and undo the wire loop holders to pull the whole thing out. The ECM connectors are GARBAGE IMO, and are a PITA to remove and replace. They appear to literally be meant for only several uses, despite being gentle. At least getting the thing off the firewall allows you to get a better look and grasp at it. Another thing, did I mention the ECM conncectors are crap? My Chevy is built for at least 100 R&R's, with a screw securing the PCM connectors. This is stuff cheap, be careful and dont use much force. I got them on and off again without damage, but it was not simple. As usual with jobs like this, you need the hands the size of a 3 year old with the strength of a 20 year old. Another thing, make sure you have ALL the parts before you start, I just assumed I would run down to the dealer and store and they would have everything I needed, not the case. Also, get a multimeter if you dont have one, you will need it often. Allow at least 4 hours for ripping the car apart, making the switch pad, shoving wires through the firewall, installing the clutch switch and wires, and screwing around with ECM connectors. Get the Toyota repair connector, I lucked out after several tries by shoving a soldered wire down there with needle nose pliers, but you may not. And get soldering flux, soldering without it is 10 times as hard, plumbers flux works fine. Also get a pad or pile of towels to put on the ground outside the car as you will be spending some time on your knees down there. Hope to have it working tomorrow, as its going to the dealer for CV joints under extended warranty at 47k Monday. |
04-18-2010, 02:34 PM | #216 |
Drives: 2007 Nautical Blue Yaris Sedan Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Draper,Utah
Posts: 22
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To anyone that did what I did and pushed the rubber stopper down instead of up. I used a very small drill bit and twisted it with my fingers and it cought and I was able to pull it out. it took me about an hour to get this out, sucked big time
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